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				Tight 2.0 engine
			 
			
			Hi  
		
	
		
	
			
				I got a 2.0 69 engine that is tight, almost frozen. I need a cheater bar to turn the crank. If I turn the crank 45 degrees its loose those 45 degrees, but then tightens. If I turn it around 360 degrees I can keep turning it, but it will seize again a few days later (well, I haven't timed it). I took the engine out of a running car but I haven't driven it very long, and just one time. It has been rebuilt by someone of unknown skill. Its built of assorted parts, mag E crank case T cylinders, T cams, unknown pistons (could be E) etc. I'm in mid teardown, it was not tight camshafts... Hopefully I get down to piston and cylinders later this week. Could someone take a guess what the problem could be? 
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	Magnus 911 Silver Targa -77, 3.2 -84 with custom ITBs and EFI. 911T Coupe -69, 3.6, G50, "RSR", track day. 924 -79 Rat Rod EFI/Turbo 375whp@1.85bar. 931 -79 under total restoration.  | 
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			 I would rather be driving 
			
			
		
			
				
			
			
			Join Date: Apr 2000 
				Location: Austin, TX 
				
				
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			warped mag case binding the crank?
		 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			
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	Jamie - I can explain it to you. But I can not understand it for you. 71 911T SWT - Sun and Fun Mobile 72 911T project car. "Minne" - A tangy version of tangerine #projectminne classicautowerks.com - EFI conversion parts and suspension setups. IG Classicautowerks  | 
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			That is my best bet too. 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			But wouldn't it bind all the time or free up the whole 360 degrees once I brake it loose? 
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	Magnus 911 Silver Targa -77, 3.2 -84 with custom ITBs and EFI. 911T Coupe -69, 3.6, G50, "RSR", track day. 924 -79 Rat Rod EFI/Turbo 375whp@1.85bar. 931 -79 under total restoration.  | 
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			"seize again a few days later"  
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			This tells you that the mechanical clearance is changing over time only thing that makes that happen is an organic process known as R U S T Rust in cast-iron cylinders. 
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			Possibly dry cylinders.  With the cylinders up add some oil through plug holes and turn it over then reverse the side with plugs up. 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
	Bruce  | 
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			Well, I have come this far now: 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			![]() With the cylinders gone I can turn the crank by the flywheel, just a little initial sticktion. There was oil in the cylinders, I think from previous attempts from me to lubricate the pistons. Cylinders don't look that good, but no major rust: ![]() ![]() I have not even wiped of the C/P in the picture above, so they look a little messy. I'm thinking that pistons to cylinder clearance might be to tight or that the piston rings are wrong. I forgot to mention in my first post that the oil tank magnet was full of junk... 
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	Magnus 911 Silver Targa -77, 3.2 -84 with custom ITBs and EFI. 911T Coupe -69, 3.6, G50, "RSR", track day. 924 -79 Rat Rod EFI/Turbo 375whp@1.85bar. 931 -79 under total restoration.  | 
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			Think I found the problem. 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			The piston skirt is too tight ! I haven't the right tools to measure the pistons, but I guess the pistons aren't supposed to get stuck?? The top of the pistons fits nicely, its just the "tabs" thats tight. that is not normal is it?  
		
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	Magnus 911 Silver Targa -77, 3.2 -84 with custom ITBs and EFI. 911T Coupe -69, 3.6, G50, "RSR", track day. 924 -79 Rat Rod EFI/Turbo 375whp@1.85bar. 931 -79 under total restoration.  | 
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			not normal.  in all my rebuilds etc, the pistons slide in and out without much effort (rings provide the friction).  but i've never dealt with a 2.0. 
		
	
		
	
			
			
				
					Just checked my new P&C's in the shop (3.0), without rings, the pistons slide nicely in and out of the jugs.  | 
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