I did spin each one to a fresh surface.

The colors are both high heat engine enamel the darker one is supposed to be "Iron Gray" IIRC but I agree it has a slight bronze tinge to it. I'm pretty happy with the results, I wanted something slightly different from the standard red/black.

Just a few small loose ends left to tie up and she's ready to slip back in and see if all this was worth it.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1361147742.jpg

I'm not saying I did this.....but I'm not saying I didn't...... Anyone have any suggestions how to repair or replace this section of return fuel line. There is a junction piece about 6" further back, can I get another and make another junction?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1361147989.jpg

I had a bunch of FI issues when I tore this down (hard starting, idle problems, leaking fuel distributor, plugged up WUR and I found that my airbox had a huge break above the intake runner ports). I bought a freshened/rebuilt set of almost all of the CIS components a while back. Clean airbox has a fresh meter plate & FD mounted to it. I have a presumably tested/rebuilt WUR mounted.

I've run a weed eater line down my fuel return line (thought it may have been plugged by pressure test #'s I was getting) and I can blow through it (not easily, but steadily) now.

Lastly the connectors for my return line & WUR were frozen solid (a week of PB soaking did nothing) I gave up and cut the return line (see above) and the wur line I got off but I feel like I should replace it as the connection at the wur spins on the press into the nylon line (has for a while, didn't leak but I fear it's a time bomb and the [old] wur also wouldn't flow anything so?

So, I'm crossing my fingers I'm fixing some issues and not just creating new ones, hope to find out next weekend or so.

Travis, call Larry or run by his place in Fairhope. He is a coline distributor & has that polyamine line.
Howard
P.S. take your broken piece with you.

Fuel Line resolutions
 

Thanks to Howard's tip I've now got a nice new line from my fuel pump to fuel filter (replacing the 1/4" standard FLAPS fuel line that I ignorantly put there the first week I brought her home), a new WUR line & a third line for return fuel. Not only this but a little insight as to how to reroute a couple of things to make my hybrid setup work a bit better.

Now the kick in the nutz
 

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1361744764.jpg
,
What you see here is my engine off the stand and one of 3 final tiny tasks before this bad boy can go back in. I proceed to torque down the flywheel bolts starting at 15lb as suggested in "101 projects", progressing to 30lbs....at 45lbs the first bolt doesn't seem to get to torque value [is it pulling threads?]......go across to another bolt, it breaks...Mother $&%#@*!!!! Just for humorous defecate lets try one more across, that one snaps too.

WTF?

I read that my 78 engine/flywheel should be torqued to 66lbs, is this not right? I feel like my flywheel is a bit questionable as I believe it's been tapped for new holes before, I didn't have it resurfaced. I wasn't having clutch slippage or trouble when I last drove it but I did order a brand new disc as the one I took out looked about finished.

So, new flywheel or less invasive fix folks?

Those are the clutch bolts. They only torque to 25NM which is 18 ft/lbs. The flywheel to crankshaft torques to 90 nm or 66 ft/lbs.

Dammit, so I just toasted my flywheel? Safe to take it and have it redrilled or better to replace it?

sent from my Galaxy S III

Did the clutch bolt break or strip ???

Yeah, one stripped, 2 more broke, obviously I should have stopped half an hour before I did today.

Just reread that page I was looking at, and yes it was referring to flywheel, not the pressure plate....stupid stupid stupid

sent from my Galaxy S III

Not a good day....
Sorry to see that happen to you.
Oh well, nothing that can't be fixed or replaced... :)

As seems regularly to be the case lately Howard was right, the flywheel was fine I just murdered a few bolts. A new set of them[torqued to the real value], a proper clutch holding tool (the VW 1600 one seemed ok but I didn't need any new headaches over $8), oil cooler & crossover pipe mounted and the morning was off to a roaring start.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1362264286.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1362264338.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1362264367.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1362264429.jpg

I need to look into my gas tank as I found a bunch of crud as far as the banjo coming out of the fuel pump (FI is mostly new). Need to go get 10qt. of oil and double check a couple of elec. connections.

My engine bay has made a quantum leap forward in appearance, but I refuse to pat myself on the back until it runs as well as it looks.

With a little luck we see if my beautiful beast runs again tomorrow :D

Yea !!!! Replace that hood shock,vise grips are cause for rejection around here. That means you get your head banged when working on the engine without the porsche special tool. A sawed off broom stick.
Howard

P.S. whats that in the Garage, A E92 BMW???

Well I have a trusty putter that usually holds the lid up but you are right I really aught to address that. I think I need to add one to the right side to accomodate my whale tail and the front ones are weak too (just more to the project list)

[Correction, knew I was off a mark] that's the better half's E93 (its a convertible) we are an all German household :D

Your pop off valve looks to be oriented incorrectly. Everything I have read on installaion says to have the hinge facing the bumper. Otherwise looking good! :)

oops, hopefully it's ok since it's in there really well now :)

I am so close my motivation is in high gear, so I braved the 29° this morning and got to work. I knew I had crap coming from my gas tank and needed to deal with it before I clogged up all the fresh stuff in the back.

I drained the fuel that was left (thought I'd run it to almost empty last summer but I know I pulled out 7 gallons) and then admit to thinking, hey, I could just put in a few gallons of fresh premium and see if this baby goes.......but ultimately decided I've put too much hard work into this to screw it up now.

Well there's certainly a lot of gunk inside the tank, and now I need to figure out what to do about it:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1362327424.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1362327448.jpg

I took a rag and made clean streaks inside, but there is a lot of crud in there. From the outside I have a lot of surface rust around the bottom (under where there was foam weather seal, was that stock?) It's obviously been repaired for something at some point?!

So, do I take this to a radiator shop or do I need a new one or is there something I can do on my own to clean inside and will Por-15 fix the outside?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/661056-cleaning-fuel-tank-without-damaging-plastic-swirl-pot.html
Here's one for ya... I'm hoping your tank is better looking inside! :)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/418598-fuel-tank-restoration-many-pictures.html

Do the radiator shop thing and they ll seal it inside along with cleaning it up, they got the hot tank
Bruce

Thanks for the links, I'd been reading those earlier today.

I took my filter out and found this:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1362350910.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1362350930.jpg

The 2nd picture doesn't properly show how much rust flakes and crud I found just inside the swirl pot. And further inspection of the outside has me really questioning just how much metal is left in several areas.

It may or may not have been "best" but I've gone ahead and ordered a new tank from our host, will have to take my chances with the fitment reviews and see what happens.

I think you're taking the smart road. Your tank could look just like the one in the second link I posted inside. I'm sure you'll be able to make the new tank fit.

new tank will fit w/ a bit of effort plus you add value to car plus you have peace of mind which is invaluable...make sure to properly prep, paint & stone guard (rubber schutz) the outside of the tank PRIOR to install...

What I saw made me think exactly of that first post, not something I want to fight and still possibly wind up with a slightly compromised tank.

Peace of mind here on an area I knew was trouble and was worse after I finally went checking it out. Probably should have looked at this 3 years ago.

I'll definitely be rubber coating it.

sent from my Galaxy S III

I agree with Timmy2. Given this is a 1975, before galvanized. Plus, it has been repaired once before. I wouldn't have given it a second thought. I was just thinking, hey maybe restore it as a back up, but I can't convince myself of that either. Do what I did with my old mercedes gastank. Stick it someplace out of site and move. :)

By means of comparison, this is what my 1976 looked like after I cleaned it. There was no rust, just crud.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1339290983.jpg

Galvanized tanks will rust too. Just had to do a 85 carrera .

I could be wrong but seems no coating for this particular object (gas tank) could be expected to ward off rust forever. My first one made it 38 years, if the replacement lasts 15-20 I'd feel happy about it.

I'll keep the old one and learn to cut and weld on it in 15 years (when all the fumes are gone).

Run a cars exhaust through it and cook the fumes out of it, then you wont have to wait.
Bruce

Nice tip Bruce, I need to do that before I seal it up so I feel ok putting it up in the attic.

The way we do them is steam clean them first, then sawz all them in half just below the seam. Sand blast them & then you can weld them up without worry. After welding,coat the inside with red coat. BTW replace the plastic swirl pot with a metal one.
Howard
P.S. Don't put it in the attic until you have flushed it out good. Take it to the radiator shop before you store it. Remember how hot the attics get down here in the summer.

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Aaaand BAM!!!

Huge thanks to everyone here that has guided me along! Fresh shiny new gas tank installed, a little tinkering and tweaking and she started up and ran smoothly.

I've got some tuning to do but happy to report that unlike in the past she will smoothly come to life w/ the first twist of the key w/ absolutely no touching of the engine. That was after several hours tonight I'll find out tomorrow morning if it's really really better (previously anything more than 1/2 hour left to cool and I had to do my little twiddle the throttle plate routine).

I did have one snag, I discovered it the other day and Howard confirmed it today on the phone. I didn't think anything about the clutch fork when I put the engine in, so when I went to adjust it I found zero engagement. I had to do a partial drop to align the fork and then slip it back in.

I had gotten running nirvana then gave her a long overdue bath and almost decided to put the drop off until the weekend but I was so way pumped from finally realizing the end of this project that I decided to tackle it. I am happy to say my little family and I took a little cruise around the neighborhood tonight for the first time since last summer.

Congratulations! That is awesome! We look forward to many happy photos of the two of you out cruising.

Oh, and while I am at it, I would HIGHLY recommend replacing your decklid shocks. They aren't that much and holy cow what a difference. I got tired of hitting my head.

Thanks! And yep, they are on the list. Noone seems to appreciate my fine putter and less my vice grips :D

...we are a picky group.

Personally, I believe that is a better use of a putter than golf...well at least for me with my golf game. I was using a curtain rod for my frunk...it came with the car.

Oh I have an even better one for the frunk, it's an extendable paint roller handle, even silver and blue like my car! (and as far as I'm concerned that's a monumentally better use for that thing than it's intended purpose)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1363268256.jpg

I realize it's not factory but I coated my new tank in rubberized undercoating and then painted that w/ the smoke gray from my engine tin.

Congrats on the re-light! That must feel great. If I recall, you re-ringed - did you follow the break-in routine recommended here in various threads? Here's a good one:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/93841-where-can-i-find-engine-break-procedures.html

..and this website noted in the thread makes a pretty compelling case for their recommended process:

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

Good luck, and be sure to post your results after break-in!

GK

yep, great weight was lifted when she came back to life.

I didn't re-ring, everything looked nice, mic'd out and tested well so I put them back just as they were.

I did turn it over by hand several times, then cranked w/o spark and fuel for a little bit. Then probably 15 more minutes of tinkering before I found the right mixture (and corrected 2 mixed up plug wires $#@!&^) before I had smooth purring 3-liter nirvana.

Great job and good to go for another 100K!.
There doesn't seem to be any loud ticking noises any more... :)
You should be proud.
Enjoy, you deserve it.

My Cheshire grin is back :D

Drove her to work this morning, smooth and very strong. Seems to have a bit more power but that's possibly just euphoria and haven't driven her in too long?

Happy to report my starting issues are gone. I'm making a trip across the bay to my new acquaintance, the CIS Whisperer tomorrow morning and hoping he can help me with idle issues. I haven't done any new cis pressure tests yet so...

First start she will settle to a nice 800rpm idle, drove to the gas station, filled up, soon as I crank again the idle is 2100, remained that way until I got to work. Apparently I have the wrong WUR on this engine and that is being resolved tomorrow so I'll wait to see where that leads.

Expecting to join Howard and the other Porsche crazies around here at a charity car show next weekend a couple of hours away.

Travis, Make sure the distributor advance& fly weights are not sticking. That will always cause a high idle ( to much advance). Take the cap off ,grab the rotor & turn it,it should snap back to the rest position & make sure it comes all the way back to the stop.
Howard

~140 miles later - no damp spots, starting almost instantly with the turn of the key after any amount of time.

Spent a couple of hours Sat. with a CIS guru, swapped out my WUR for a newly rebuilt one (and the correct model for my engine), took off an odd electro switch on a vacuum line, checked my timing (which was about spot on), etc.

I [PO] had my vacuum advance capped off on the dizzy, we re-attached that. Well after a little bit we took it out for a test drive, she pulls hard all the way up and running very smoothly.

........of course there's always something (if the past is an indicator Howard is probably right about it) 10 minutes after leaving said guru w/ a finely tuned 911 my idle goes wonky again, sticking at ~2k for a bit at a stop and once dropping enough to stall. We oiled up my dizzy a little bit, and the button does bounce back as suggested above but everything else seems to be working well so I may need to try and take the distributor apart and lubricate/clean up everything to see if it's sticking.

Overall I'm thrilled, just the continued tinkering on an old a$$ car on a budget :)

And a gratuitous pic from the Sunday morning bath time
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1363612304.jpg