If numbers are good on the ones at Weekend Rides, should I go ahead?

You ask a big question that only you and Will can answer...
Even test numbers can be misleading as to the exact condition of a used engine...
But, working on a 3.2L newer engine is maybe easier than the older 2.7L...

Regards,

So you are saying that I might be trading one headache for another headache? Will gave me the impression that it would be too simple. Just find it, drop it in and I'm good to go as long as the numbers are good.

Pete,

you have a PM

Roy

search for 3.2 continues
 

disappointed...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/700166-disappointed-weekend-rides.html#post6942999

So the journey continues. I have an '86 engine being shipped as we speak. Approximately 100k on it, and leak downs on a cold engine at 8% on all. Flywheel, muffler, brain, harness, intake, and external oil cooler. It was recommended that I get the external oil cooler, and replace the lines for it. I'll do a search, but any place I should search for these and should I definitely buy new ones?

If your car has factory air there could be lines already there. Have Will check with Vince if Will doesnt have the lines.
Bruce

No, it has aftermarket air conditioning.
So I need the lines, and a tstat and additional lines for the tstat?
Also, anyone have a decent clutch for a 915 tranny they would want to part with?

Engine has arrived from LA dismantlers. Will says it looks good, but needs assembled... so i guess that will be a few more hours, but so be it. Just told Will to order the clutch assembly, and I'm going to wait on the oil lines and AC until funds build back up in early spring before hot weather comes back.
Anyone have any thoughts of how it will be without the external oil cooler till springtime?
Also, Thumbs Up to Will at Fairwinds, I'm very happy with the contact I've had with him, and the help/explanations.

it doesn't have factory air. Aftermarket air, with a freon reservoir behind the passenger front wheel. Should I look into putting the external cooler behind the driver's side front wheel? Will thinks I should be good for the fall/winter, and revisit this come early spring. Thoughts?
Can anyone tell me what the radiator on the hood grill (rear) is? That's for my AC I'm assuming.

Let Will do what he does and heed his advice. He knows where everything goes properly.
Bruce

making progress
 

Stopped by Will's Friday and the engine is in! Still waiting on a few parts, but I'm very hopeful I'll be driving down the road soon. I guess the big test will be when he tries to turn it over and we see what it sounds/drives like. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1348494700.jpg

Great Fun!
 

Picked her up on Friday. Boy, I dropped some dough on the engine swap. Alot of the price was due to some items not included in the engine that I ordered from LA dismantlers. I have to get that straightened out with them, but anyway, it runs pretty good.
I drove it to dinner Friday night, to go sailing on Saturday, then around town to a friends house to get some parts. Starting to get to know some more people in the area that are into porsches and it's been good.
Apparently my dad had the headlight switch melt on him and he rigged it up so it sorta worked. So I now have a new switch that I need to wire up to pass inspections at the DMV on wednesday.
Oh, I also got the original seats reinstalled on Sunday. :) You can see the difference in seats in the picture before I removed the Driver's seat.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1349110649.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1349110664.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1349110679.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1349110694.jpg

Lookin Good!
 

Pete,

Congratulations on the engine swap and other work you have done on the Targa!!

I would like to hear your Dad's comments after he drives the new 3.2L engine car.

It is great that you have been able to keep the car in your family...it will mean a lot
as time goes by.

I enjoy your pics also, keep us up to date on your progress.

Regards,

I recognize the 73....
Bruce

switch and wiring
 

last night i attempted to put the headlight switch in. The diagrams and colors were different than the colors i was working with. So with some time and some deductive reasoning, I was able to figure everything out.
I was hoping in the process that the switch would resolve the missing high beam on the passenger side and the missing tail light on the driver's side. I was wrong. Checked the bulbs and both were fine. So now it must be the wires...
If anyone has any suggestions on how to re-wire either of those two lights I'd love the advice.

Spin the fuses as they sulfate at the contact ends.
Bruce

The 3.2 is a great engine once you get it set up.
As for the lights, make sure the brown ground wires are connected to clean metal.
Here are a couple of pictures from my 1973 light switch if they help.
Some times there is a problem with the contacts on the steering column.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/248149-turn-signal-switch-quick-fix-pictures.html
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1349179781.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1349179798.jpg

I've seen the orange car on my drive home a couple times. If that's near Corner Ketch, your near me.

Glad to see you have your car back on the road.

Mark

Yep, at Corner Ketch. I'm at the other end of Newark, close to UD.

Well, Kinda mad at myself, but that's the way it goes. Late Tuesday night (2am) I had gotten all the lights working. From the looks of it, when the headlight switch burned out (apparently years ago) my dad just wired stuff into the switch so it would work, and he even moved stuff in the fuse box! Ugh. So I ended up re-wiring the fuse box (headlights and fogs) so that everything worked with the new switch. It all worked, imagine that!
BUT I didn't have taillights. I read about the switches and people needing to replace them so yesterday I was in quest to figure that out. A friend told me how to take the wooden panel out behind the foot pedals and wouldn't you know it, the reason the brake lights weren't coming on was because I wasn't pressing them far enough. I will need to adjust them so they come on sooner for stop and go traffic, but the fact is they will work for the DMV inspection. Wish I would have known this, I could have gone to the DMV last night and passed instead of taking everything apart and putting back together.

On another note, I'm looking for the following items:
"test" pipe for exhaust (3.2)
Skinny vents for under the dash instead of the thicker vents

prep for inspection
 

Well I thought I had everything ready to go for inspection last week. Lights were working brakes were working and engine was running great.
Failed inspection. On the way there I noticed signals weren't blinking. I checked the fuse and noticed it was blown. Thought I could get by with a wire for a temp fix till I got home. Brakes didn't work when I got to the lane, and neither did the passenger rear taillight. Darn.
I read up for the next couple days and determined that the problem was either the reverse switch on the transmission, maybe something got messed up during the engine swap, or there was a short somewhere. I tried first by pulling the green and yellow wire that goes to the reverse switch, replacing the fuse, and then putting the lights on, turn signal on, then putting it in reverse... didn't blow. then it hit the brakes... it blew.. Ok, must be a taillight/brake light. I pulled the lights and low and behold, the driver's side light was loose, and so the connection part in the back had come loose. It was shorting when i applied the brakes. So I reassembled it, and added some epoxy to keep it secure. Reassembled and am waiting until the epoxy dries til i replace the bulb and have pressure applied. Hopefully that will do the trick.
the other bad news from the inspection was i was pressing the brakes repeatedly, and there seems to be a fluid leak by the rear dr. side wheel. I think I'll be replacing all the brake lines....