Getting The H/E's off an 87

[jjemg]

Well.. I am just baffled at the problems I have to ask here lately! I am working on a 87 3.2 and need to do the heads. When I noticed the H/E's looked like they where going to need some help I started soaking them down with penetrating fluid. They are in REAL bad shape including rotten on the inside for the tool. What is the solution for this without destroying the H/E's

[Flat6pac]

Torch, cherry red on the nuts. Get the allens very red before you try because you will strip inside.
All else fails, pull the cam, carriers and the rockers then you can get channel locks on them.
Realize the tubes have inserts that extend into the heads make the heads difficult to separate from tubes.
Bruce

[jjemg]

OK.. Good idea.. I love this car but it seems to be riddled with little problems!

Jimmy

[peppy]

I used the torch method, but with a different tip (I cut them off and is cost me about $8 per stud to have them removed and inserts put in). Good luck.

I think patients is the real trick with these, and I don't have any.

[Flat6pac]

I got the torch years ago. It use to cost me $45 for each broken stud..It doesnt take many to equal a new burning outfit.

Why is everything so clean?
Bruce

[larrym]

and buy the Stomski stud repair tool from Pelican

- now - you are going to need it

I did - it's salvation

[irobertson]

When I did mine, I found that even after i got all the nuts off. I still had to go at them with the torch to get the flanges to loosen from the remaining studs. I also used a pry bar with an adjustable angled head to get in and work at them to help get them moving.

+100 on the Stomski kit as well.
I broke half my studs getting my exhaust off, and the kit saved me from having to do inserts.

[911pcars]

At a certain point in time and effort with the recommended tool and heat, the integrity of the internal hex will be compromised. Here's another strategy in case copious heat cycles and applications of Kroil don't budge it.

Use a small cutoff wheel on a Dremel tool and patiently grind a slot in the barrel nut. Cut at a position in order to insert/force a long/stout pry bar or screwdriver into the slot to lever and rotate the nut from the side (better if you can create another slot on the opposite side for increased grip geometry.

If enough heat cycles are performed, it should rotate. If not, carefully lengthen the slot, then increase the slot width with the screwdriver to increase the ID to loosen its grip on the stud (apply more Kroil to break down any corrosion contact). If the HE Gods are with you, the nut will come off without damaging the stud.

I was lucky with this one. YMMV.


Sherwood

[KTL]

This thread is a good example of how it's wise to "exercise" your nuts each time the oil is changed. Once the nuts are free and clean (I do NOT recommend exercising them if they've been untouched for who knows how long) you can simply crack them loose and re-tighten when you're under the car. It's good insurance for long term avoidance of what we see discussed here!

[304065]

That and to apply one righteous boatload of copper anti-seize to the nuts.

Whoever came up with the barrel nut design was a demon.

[jjemg]

Well.. sound like lots of fun for me! I will get the tool and follow the advise.
This is seriously slowing my winter project. I would more enjoy a little different nut exercisom
Let the evel spirits out!!

[AlfonsoR]

Fun indeed. Can't wait till it's my turn.