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How to inspect and buy a 2.7 engine?
I'm going to look at a 2.7 next week for my 914. It looks to be a complete engine and advertised as such. It has not been rebuilt and said to be all original. My plan is to do a full tear down and rebuild of the engine. I may do some performance modifications but not sure what at this point. I'm a complete novice so don't ask me anything too specific of my plans. I just want to get a good engine to start with and start learning from there. Is there anything specific I should make sure it has? Anything I should be looking for? Any questions I should be asking? I know these engines are notorious for the pulled head studs. Is there a way to tell if this is the case by looking at the outside of the case? Is there anything that could prevent this engine from being rebuilt? The seller has stated that it will probably not produce good numbers on a leak down test just because of the age and how long it has been sitting. I agree but should I perform one anyways? If I am rebuilding does it matter?
Any other advice would be appreciated. I talked to the seller on the phone and he sounds knowledgeable and honest but I want to at least have some knowledge before I walk in and buy the engine. Thanks
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Its never been a solid investment. The 2.7 is more than just pulled head studs, its center bearing straightness as the company used heat to meet the emissions.
The cost of purchase is about 25 to 30 percent of the aluminum 3.0. After spending say $5000 on it, $6000 total in it, which is low but just for reference, wanting to sell it you might get $.25 on the dollar of your money back. There is something you didnt do on the build and that will make the offers plummit. Its too easy to find something you diidnt do on a 2.7 On the 3.0 you ll have to pay upward of $3000 for a complete running core. A few hundred for valve job and gaskets, 12 replacement studs and some other while youre there and you have $6000 in the engine and can get most of that money back out of it. Ones a purchase and the other is an investment. Bruce |
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My 2.7 had 70k on it when the guides went. The engine was in great shape otherwise. It still cost almost 10k to rebuild properly. If you cut any corners it will not last.
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Bruce,
You are throwing some numbers around and say you can get a good running 3.0 core for $3000. Not sure if that was a "low for reference only" price or not. What price should I be paying for a non-running 2.7L core? Thanks
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Maybe $1k, if that. The case of a non-running 2.7 is going to need a ton of machining to it alone. An align-bore is about a grand, and time-certs are what, $400 now? Either way, you're better off getting a running 2.7, or even better, a 3.0. |
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The point is a running engine as a core. If a 3.0 isnt running the price drops drastically because non running can mean anything from a spun rod or bad CIS or leaking like a seive.
jumped time. You dont know what youre getting so the value is lost. Non running 2.7, you cant part it for for value, I dont see $700, probably closer to $500, then hoping you didnt let yourself get taken advantage of. I didnt say good running, I said running 3.0 core Bruce Last edited by Flat6pac; 10-26-2012 at 08:01 PM.. |
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The engine I am looking is way over priced. I guess I'll just keep looking. Probably hold out for a running 3.0 core. Sounds like that is my best bet. From what you guys are saying and from all the negative comments I have read on the 2.7 I am worried that even if I negotiated a fair price I am taking a big risk and probably looking at a very expensive rebuild.
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Since you're putting it in a car that came with a 2.7, make sure the engine comes with all the CIS bits you need. Otherwise you'll have to track them down by yourself. |
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: cross roads
Posts: 14,079
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Most any engine inspection is dubious at best..Paper work, receipts knowledge of the builder and machinist is helpful..in the end......its your problem
The 2.7 Has a bad reputation for good reason....I own one and have done every upgrade known to man and Porsche person... I stick with it cause it matches the numbers to my car and is supposedly 30 pounds lighter then a AL case... The Main Bngs to fit a line bored case are now all most unobtainium ....
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Air Medal or two
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true can be done.......but now there is a can of worms with deck HT and sprocket size on cam chain.
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D troop 3/5 Air Cav,( Bastard CAV) and 162 Assult Helicopter Co- (Vultures) South of Saigon, U Minh Forest, Delta, and all parts in between |
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"best buyers guide" re 2.7 is Bruce Anderson's book - second best is Wayne's book
- buy them both right here on Pelican Parts - read them very carefully - then come back here for more opinions in a couple months depends on what your budget is - ? if you have $15K cash, right now - go for the best rebuilt 3.2 you can find if you only have $2K and think you can substitute your labor for expert shop work and new parts already in place, or in lieu of paying for an engine on which the work has already been done, it doesn't make any difference which engine you buy - it will eventually cost you north of $12K, and months of work, to have the reliable rebuilt motor you apparently seek if you have about $8K cash to spend, right now, there are a few good low-miles- built-right 2.7's & larger on various of these porsche sites, including the PCA site - see the latest Panorama for one of them another example - I have both a 5K miles 2.7, built right, AND a '88 3.2 "documented running good when removed" - both for sale in the classifieds sections of Pelican & World - negotiable in the $6-7K range depending on how much of the peripherals you want included - plus shipping of course - also find several 3.2s on eBay regularly in the $6-7K range .
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All you need is slightly thicker shims on the cylinders at that point. Ollie's gave me a set with the case and the deck height came out perfectly within spec.
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