Cleaning Oil Squirters

[Tom Oxner]

I am in the process of rebuilding my 3.0 liter. I used Waynes method of checking the oil squirters on the 4-6 cylinders. Everything was fine. On the 1-3 cylinders (which are much easier to check) the squirters for 2 and 3 were fine, but the number 1 squirter is plugged (no air will go thru it). Does anyone have suggestions as to how to clear this squirter? I have used shop air up to 125psi but have had no luck. Thanks for your help.

Tom

[Ronnie's.930]

There are many past threads/posts on this subject (search piston squirters) . . . here is one of them:

Piston Squirters!

[lindy 911]

Sea foam from the parts store down both side of the squirter; front and back. Let it sit for about an hour and try air again. If no go, soak it again until it works. This stuff is amazing.

[boyt911sc]

Tom,

Try to soak the oil squirter with Sea Foam from both sides. Apply pressurized air and repeat cycle. Sometimes the blockage is so bad that the Sea Foam could not clean it in spite of repeated test. Then, try MEK as a last resort. I was able to save a few oil squirters using MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) after SEA Foam failed to relieve the blockage. Be advised that MEK is a nasty solvent. If you decide to use it, read the instruction well including the hazards about it. You might encounter a stubborn oil squirter that won't spray at all.

I've removed and installed a few of them last year. My only advise to you if you install a replacement piston oil squirter is to pressure test it several times!!!!! Make sure it would not get dislodged when pressure tested. I had one flew out during test and was glad I caught it on time.

Lindy, Tippy, and a few other guys gave me similar tips and advises. Good luck.

Tony

[Tom Oxner]

I have soaked the squirter in Seafoam for two days now and it has made no difference. I will try to get some MEK to put on it. Things are not looking good. Thanks for your help.

Tom

[lindy 911]

Tom,

Make sure you're getting Seafoam on the spring side (opposite where they spray comes out) as that is where the goop builds up. The access to that side is where I show the air nozzle blowing in. Plug the center galley which ever way you find works best and then add the Seafoam. Keep trying, It'll break loose sooner or later.

[JohnJL]

Lots of methods ifyou search the threads. Lindy and Tony have good suggestions.

As a last resort you can fish a piece of piano or other springy wire with s hook at the end of it into the squirter and agitate it with some solvent in there. This is only as a last resort as you can damage it, but if your next step is to replace anyway you might as well give it a shot. Dont proceed with the build until you address the blockage.

[Tom Oxner]

Does anyone have a part number for the squirters in a 3.0 case? Thanks,

Tom

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by Tom Oxner

Does anyone have a part number for the squirters in a 3.0 case? Thanks,

Tom

Tom,

I got my replacement squirters from Pelican parts through Glenn Sager that I used for the 3.0 liter SC engines I rebuilt recently. If I remember correctly, it's extension 240. I'm away from home and has the empty packet by my computer desk.

Tony

[jomalkay]

Tom,
I had similar issue, had one squirted that could not get free, soaked in sea foam, carb cleaner, liquid wrench, fished a piece of weld wire thru back side, to no avail. Was pretty much settled it would need replaced, soaked "one last time", had to go out of town for a few days, one last blast of air tonight and poof, works like a charm. I would keep soaking for some days first. I used a bolt worth holes drilled so I could get full blast of air, can send a pic if you want, easy to make.

[Tom Oxner]

I have soaked the squirters in seafom at least 6 times. I bought the squirter cleaner from Stomski Racing (pretty cool little tool). The middle squirter is obstruction free-air goes thru it as if there is no obstruction. The one nearest the flywheel flows air, but not as much as the center one. The one on the other end flows a little air (I can feel it on my finger), but very minimal compared to the center one. I will continue soaking them. I am assuming that they all need to flow a similar amount of air in order to get about the same amount of oil to the backside of the pistons. Thanks for your help.

Tom

[jomalkay]

In my case, i think the key was to let the sea foam soak for a few days before blowing air, prior to that, i had let soak a few hours, one day maximum (guess i was getting anxious).

[Lapkritis]

Have any of you tried a solvent flush on the running engine prior to diss-assembly? I've used it on engines of other makes and the results are significant... sludge/grim etc is removed almost entirely. Parts look like they're nearly new but a mechanical blockage of course wouldn't clear.

[lindy 911]

Tom,

It helps to fill the galley with oil prior to blowing them out. This lets you see the spray pattern for the squirter. I think it also helps the squirter open up. Keep up with the Seafoam.

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by lindy 911

Tom,

It helps to fill the galley with oil prior to blowing them out. This lets you see the spray pattern for the squirter. I think it also helps the squirter open up. Keep up with the Seafoam.

Tom,

After replacing a few piston squirters, you want to confirm the flow and stability of each. The last thing you want is the new squirter/s popping out after engine assembly. I did a simple test by running high pressure water into the crankcase. Oil is preferred by quite messy. With the pressurized fluid circulating, you'll have a very good picture how all the squirters and others are spraying.

In case you would like to see a picture, I could send you one after returning home next week. The weather here at Las Vegas is getting very nice each day since we arrived last week. But can't wait to get home and work on my engines. Well behind my work schedules and cold weather at the East Coast is fast approaching.

Tony

[KTL]

Originally Posted by Tom Oxner

Does anyone have a part number for the squirters in a 3.0 case? Thanks,

Tom

Porsche 911 & Carrera Main Engine Components - Page 8

[earossi]

As described in this thread, one has to block off the oil pressure passages that daylight into the through bolt holes in the block in order to be able to pressure up the passage to the piston squirters. This situation exists in only one of the engine case halves.

When attempting to find a hose to block off these passages, all I could get at my local hardware store was 1/2" fuel hose. Unfortunately, the outside diameter of this hose makes for a slight interference fit, making it unsatisfactory. After thinking about this for a few minutes, I decided to break out my little Dremel tool fitted with a small cut off disk. I chucked up about a five inch length of 1/2" hose into my shop vise and then, using the cut off wheel on my Dremel, sliced a single slot along the length of the hose. The heat created from the Dremel cut off disk actually melts the slot into the hose.

With the slot cut through one side of the hose, the hose can then be easilly slipped into the through bolt holes for a snug fit that closes off the oil passage.

This worked like a champ.