Fuel leak
 

Hi,

Yes, there is a fuel connection where the line comes out of the body right at the transmission mount -- it is difficult to get access with the trans mounted but our tech
did a repair with the trans mounted.

Congratulations on the effort you have put into your project - best of luck with the completion.

Regards,

Interesting. Anyone have a picture of this bugger?

The 2 black rubber hoses zip tied together are the out/in fuel lines attached to
the lines coming out of the body at the transmission. When you get the car up
in the air and good light on the spot you will see the connections - which on your car
are probably metal tubing with threaded connectors. Ours were changed over to
rubber during the 3.8 engine conversion.

Hope this helps,

Regards,

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1377627015.jpg

Here you go. The pressure line is the one I am showing unconnected. The return line is the fitting right above it. This is on the drivers side. The bellows is the throttle linkage. You can get at it by supporting the tranny and removing the tranny mounting bar.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1377627052.jpg

one more view, slightly different perspective. You can see the studs for the transmission mount here to help locate.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1377627565.jpg

Interesting.

I will have to take a closer look, and take a swipe at that in the near future. I don't recal that being disconnected when I took the project on, perhaps it is a thing that I damaged when I installed the engine/trans.

FYI --- Ours just started leaking out of the blue - most likely age fatigue failure of the
aluminum fuel line at the fitting. We had the 3.2L engine in the car at the time - I had been doing
a warm up test before taking the race car to the track the next weekend - and after there
was the fuel on the floor of the trailer - got it to the shop and up on the lift quickly -
they had it repaired the next day. TG for good Porsche Indi shops !

Keep up the good work and reports here on the Pelican forum - thanks . . .

Regards,

Ok all -

Happy Labor Day: I am thinking that I had only a slightly laborious one by my typical standards and measures.

Anyhow, I was able to attach the new clutch cable support. Not too bad of a job, it appears that someone in this car's life had welded the old clutch support. Nice job, dude.

With the new cable support in place, I went through the clutch cable adjustment procedure as outlined in the 101 book, and found that I have no more room to adjust anything, but I have only 22.4mm of cable travel from petal up to petal on the floor. I measured with no less than 17 times, and do not see how it is possible to get more travel. I then started to look for the actual petal adjustment - the 101 book mentions an adjustment on the back of the petal itself. I could not find this positive stop on the clutch petal itself, perhaps it was removed?


When I push the petal down, it feels like its supposed to, but the omega spring hits the heat exchanger when the clutch is all the way out.

A few questions here:

Am I in the market for a new clutch cable now??

When I do not get 25.0+/-0.5mm of cable travel, but I am at the furthest end of the cable adjustment threads - where should I be turning to get more travel?

Is there a problem with the omega spring hitting the heat exchanger? It appears as though this was happening in the past based on the "wear marks" I see on the heat exchanger.

If I can delay the purchase of a new clutch cable, I would rather do that so that I can focus on getting this car running: I am sure that there are other small things that I will have to repair in my near future (...a fuel line comes to mind...)



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1378171251.jpg

A small bit of life.....
 

Well, I decided to give her a try a couple nights ago, between conference calls.

I had a friend hang out with me for an hour while we tried to get the car started. I went through the oil pressure building procedure (again) with the fuel relay disconnected.

When I put the fuel relay back in to start it: there was no fuel leak to speak of (....we were watching quite closely...) - so we decided to get a try to go "whole hog" and start it. We got it started, and I tried to rise it to 2500RPM and break it in as outlined in the 101 book..... but it was running very poorly (backfire, spudder, backfire) and I was only able to keep it going for about 2 minutes. I decided that I must have put the ignition wires to the wrong position, and corrected that - however - I broke one of the wires at the boot/cap when doing so. (...time for new wires...). I went to start it again, and the boot disconnected: sparks were flying (certainly getting a spark --- that's good!)

The old wire set was a little beat up anyhow... so I chose to get the Clewett set.
When I get this set... I will wire it up and give it another shot.

However, the 101 book has a picture of the cap and has a diagram, and a small note that says "swap these 4 numbers for the SC". The picture is not super clear, and I am a little unsure of myself - so I have attached a crude picture of what I believe to be correct wiring on the cap.




http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1378400990.jpg


Is this correct for the SC?

puzzled by cap
 

Ok y'all:

After doing a little digging, I have found that the best way to put the plug wires on is to set the motor to Z1 and use the firing order to put the ignition wires on the cap - counter clock wise from there.

However, when I put the motor to Z1, I am finding that Z1 is actually putting the rotor at the #3 position in my little mock up in the prior posted picture. I have heard that some people put the cap on 180 degrees out of "factory" - meaning that I need to start at "ground zero", and I think that is one of the reasons that I am not getting a clean running engine.

Anyone out there support this theory (180 degrees out of phase from factory)?

I would put the motor at Z1, check to see that it is definitely at #1 TDC, pull the dizzy out, line the rotor up to the Z1 mark and reinsert it. Then time it from the correct starting point. IIRC on my SC #1 on my dizzy is about where your #6 is but can't look as car is 8' in the air at the moment..

Here is a pic, may help -

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1378522979.jpg

Thank you Gary...

I didn't goof with the dizzy - so I think that your suggestion is the route that I am going to go with.

New ignition wires are now in hand (woah, these are nice!) and I will tackle this project tomorrow.

From your diagram it looks like #6 is where #1 should be, it's hard to see but you can follow the wire in my pic down to #1 spark plug. My #5 is where your #1 is currently .. easy fix, no idea how or why anyone would leave it like that but i've seen a lot worse! Your just off 60 degrees.

Don't forget the dizzy goes around twice each time the crank goes around once. Your are at "Z1" twice, once the dizzy will be 180 off and once it will be on the true "Z1" You need to check that both valves are closed on #1 to know for sure that that it's on the right Z1.

running!
 

Ok, we made a HUGE step today. I went through the oil building procedure (again) just to make sure; and we connected the fuel relay --- and POW; with the addition of the new wires and the confirmation that Z1 was the time that #1 was intending to be igniting - she is running.

So, I ran it, holding the engine at 2500RPM, for 20 minutes (actually, a little longer than that...) and listened to it run.

I forgot how beautiful that engine sounds. It has been a really long time since this car has been road worthy.

Anyhow, yeah - we got it running, but it was backfiring like hell, especially when I started to let off the gas in attempts to keep the car at 2500RPM. I believe that I have a timing issue, that I will attempt to address tomorrow because it also would not really establish or run at idle. I had to pump the gas to keep it running - but good news - I put it in gear, and backed the car into the garage. And it moves under it's own power! Maybe if I get a little time tomorrow, I will be able to put a timing light on it to see if I completely trashed the timing by trying to find where #1/Z1 was supposed to be...

The other area of concern; the rubber oil line that connects to the metal oil line at the rear most point of the engine bay is leaking --- a LOT. There is a metal fitting that is on the flexible rubber hose is the leaking point (ugh). I don't think that will be fix-able unless I replace the rubber hose altogether. This left a puddle of oil on my driveway about 8 inches in diameter and only leaked while running (thankfully I guess). Any suggestions there for this oil line? It is clearly leaking from the fitting interface, NOT from the threaded area there; the connection is quite tight.

Have a pic of the leaking hose?

Misfire - how do the plugs look for each cylinder? That may tell the story.

Why don't you static time it first and see if that is right then proceed to check the timing with the engine at idle to see if the ignition timing is right. Adjust it if it is wrong. It is so close ...

I did not get a chance to static time her yet: I think that this oil leak should be addressed first.

By the way, I am in 14 quarts of oil and finally - with it warm on a level ground; I hit the "MIN" mark on the dipstick. Holy cow!

The picture is of the oil leak - it is coming from the rubber/fitting area, NOT from the threaded connection. And....it's not a slow leak - when it was running, it was flowing out of there at a pretty quick pace. I think that during my "warm up" time, it lost about a cup of oil. When it's not running - it isn't leaking too bad; but that is because it's not under pressure. My question: can I repair the rubber interface fitting? Or, am I going to have to replace the "oil hose" as called out in the PET listing?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1378756548.jpg

You can take that hose to a hydraulic hose repair shop and they can replace the hose and re-crimp it. The new part is around 100 bucks. I just went through the same thing.

Ok -

What this looks like is:
Step 1:
Drain oil from system (...all 14 quarts...)


Step 2:
Install new (or repaired) oil hose

Step 3:
Put new oil in system.

Unfortunately (for my wallet) I am not sure I see it any other way...

Is there any way that I can avoid draining all of this oil to install this oil hose?