Sometimes the case can be stubborn and I can appreciate people's reluctance to really whack on the case with a mallet.

Make sure you've got all the hidden nuts removed. Theres the ones in the oil cooler recess and also the ones by the flywheel that people forget. Also one inside the chain opening on one side of the case.

You can use a spreader tool with very light pressure. Just use it in places where the case is very well supported and your tool fits nicely. I have used a brake pad press in the breather cover opening and at the front fan area to coax the case apart. The hardest part to separate is at the flywheel because those studs inside the oil cooler recess have dowel sleeves to align the case at the #1 main bearing location

I am thinking about building a simple case splitter tool with a threaded tube and copper bolts on both ends. By unscrewing the bolts I would expand the tool and apply pressure at various points. I will stop at Lowes after work to pick up the cheap parts I need for that.

Victory!
 

I didn't even have to build a tool, already had it: a simple gear puller from which I removed the arms, stuck it under the fan base and split the case by turning the screw. Simple as that, there was a loud bang and the case opened. I bet this is the first time since 1978, and I would still be at it with the hammer method. I hope my little trick will help others...

https://picasaweb.google.com/ad8588975/Rebuild2#5871001475706836754
https://picasaweb.google.com/ad8588975/Rebuild2#5871001487967127634

"A loud bang" doesn't leave a warm and fuzzy feeling..........I've never had a case make a noise when it's being split. Hope nothing in broken :(

Count your case bolts. Bet you missed a couple. I had gone over mine several times and missed the "cap" nuts (look just like the ones on the end of the case through bolts, but they don't go on case through bolts) that are inside of where the on-engine oil cooler attaches (they are covered by the cooler when it is on).

Todd

I have the other half of the case on the bench, and I did not see anything broken or a bolt I had forgotten. It was just a very stubborn case ;).

Thanks again Aurelien for sharing your tips & experience with great photos . I am sure this will come in handy for my 3.0L rebuild.

Curious to know what your oilpump drive bearing looked like?
Peter in Melbourne Au.

Crankshaft
 

I measured my crankshaft, and its does not look good:

All the rod bearing shafts were at the minimum wear limit (52.959 mm) but the #6 that spun a bearing is 153-180 microns under (52.806, 52.781). The mains were also slightly below (59.944) or slightly above (56.969) the wear limit of 56.960.

So in summary, I have crankshaft that was already at its wear limit and was further damaged by a spun rod bearing.

The way I see it, there are three options:

Option 1:Send it to Ollie's for grinding the main & rod shafts 250 microns undersized. Cost of grind, heat treat and micro polish would be $275, $210, $50 that is $545. Then I have to add the cost of .25 mm undersized main and rod bearings $1239.25, $282 so a grand total of $2,066.

Option 2: Same as above minus grinding the main shafts. That brings the cost down to $460 for grind, heat treat, micro polish and $282, $212.50 for bearings, so total of $954.50.

Option 3: find a good used crankshaft.

I'd start by seeing what may be out there, for #3.

Undersized bearings cost that much more than standard????

From our host, glyco does not make them, they have to be ordered from Porsche. The rod bearings are not too bad, but the mains are the killer...

You can gave bearings coated to take up the slack? Or not that much coating?

Problem is the one that spun. Way too much slack on that one.

That's what I did. Made better $ sense to get a good used crank instead of spending a bunch of $ on machining and undersized bearings. A good STD crank in SC flavor is around $800 to $1000. I got mine from Ed Baus

Undersize bearings are made by Glyco. It's just that only Porsche carries them. Pelican just carries std. bearings.

I discovered there was a big engine rebuilding place about two minutes drive from work, so I dropped them my cases and oil cooler for cleaning in a parts washer. Good deal. I am also waiting on a possible replacement crankshaft candidate that still has to be measured. Found a replacement piston too. The slow reassembly process will then begin...

Make sure the oil cooler(s) are ultrasonically cleaned and flowed in both directions to clear out any bearing debris. Also make sure to clean your auxiliary and internal thermostats via disassembly, as well all of your oil lines- including tiny cam housing supply lines (and chain tensioners if applicable). Be anal and make sure they all are VERY clean

I found bearing debris in both my t-stats and noticed plenty of it in my front oil cooler. That nice Fluidyne front cooler is being retired. I shelved my engine oil cooler and will pay the $ to have it cleaned eventually. Engine mounted cooler is a valuable piece that should be salvaged if at all possible.

Got my cases and oil cooler back from the cleaner. They had a little ultrasonic bath:

http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/...qu/image-5.jpg
http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/...qu/image-4.jpg

Nice and clean. New head studs planned?

-Andrew

No, I already replaced head-studs in rebuild #1.

I have to remove galley plugs to clean the oil passages and make sure nothing got stuck in there. I may also polish the case a bit with some Al polishing paste. Gotta keep busy cleaning that bad boy ;).

I've seen one case semi polished, it looked great! The person used a fine wire wheel on a drill, he said it only took 20 minutes per case half.

Things stay hotter when polished though ... any anodizers in town? A nice mil spec black keeps things cool but pricey. ;)

I would like to ask you, where do you find what the crankcase bolt and nut torque specs are? I know if I bought a book I would find it there, but I am sure it is somewhere here on this site, but I having a difficult time locating the numbers. Mine is a 2.7 RS engine.
Thanks

Bcgreen,

I highly recommend that you buy Wayne's book. As an alternative, you should also learn to use his websites search function ;).

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/155442-what-torque-value-case-through-bolts.html

Here is a bit of update on my project:

I got a very very nice std/std used crankshaft, thank you Tom!
Unfortunely, some unforeseen events are going to affect the rebuild: I got news Tuesday that my job is being relocated form Albuquerque to Billerica, MA (our main R&D center). I have to move by August 31st, and will be very busy both at work, and at home selling the house and looking for a new place. I am very concerned that if the car is not running by then, it will be a big issue to move it to MA. Which puts the pressure on me to start the rebuild process, but I do not want to feel rushed into something that was supposed to be a hobby, and do a botched work as a consequence.

So should I just pack all the parts and figure out how to ship everything, or try to have it running in two months? My relocation package is very generous and will ship cars, but a car that cannot move by itself is a problem...

What is sad is that I was really looking forward to driving the 911 in New Mexico, but never really got a chance, having been here only two years (and the spun rod bearing problem started in New Jersey).

I am still very blessed if my only worries are about my toy, when so many of my colleagues have been laid off. Sorry for the very limited technical content of this update.

I'd view it as a project you may have to pay a bit more to move. Seems to me there is value in that, and that won't cost that much more than a moving vehicle. People buy expensive project cars all the time, and move them across the country.

Having built two 911 motors, and having just sold and bought houses 6 months ago, I wouldn't want to tackle the engine when getting ready to move. Move the car, and break in your new garage when settled!

Billerica - welcome to the neighborhood. Are you familiar with the area? The differences between communities is huge, very significant etc. I'm sure you already are but take your time and choose wisely... the best house in the worst neighborhood trap is prevalent here.

I commute through on the 3 one day a week normally to my office in Waltham. Living further north now.

[QUOTE=Aurel;7422473]Bcgreen,

I highly recommend that you buy Wayne's book. As an alternative, you should also learn to use his websites search function ;).

I understand the other book is the Bentley book, but which is the better one, and will either of these cover my '76 ROW. Because this engine is so different that even the picture of my clutch adjustment area is not one I have seen anywhere here or on the internet. In this case Wayne's book would not be helpful.

I am looking into Westford or Chelmford. Also looking into New Hampshire, nice houses and some good school districts. I have been there a few times, but I lived in NJ previously. New area for me to discover.

Old family home.........
 

Small world, my Great, Great Grandfather, Great Grand Father and Grandfather all lived in the Chelmford area. The family slowly moved south, first to Richmond and then later to the Atlanta area. I have continued the trend and now live in South Georgia near Florida. Good luck with your house hunting and move to your new home.

[QUOTE=bcgreen;7499863] Wayne's book covers 65-89 years, I do not have the Bentley but Wayne book had all I needed for my rebuild.

Pack it and ship it!
 

Aurel:

I would suggest keeping your (current) pace at putting the engine back together.

I would not want to rush the rebuild, that is how mistakes happen. I would then box it up as much as you can and ship it to the next house when it is time to move. You will have a car in pieces shipped a ways, so make sure things are packed up nice for the journey.

Now that you are going to have a new house, perhaps you can negotiate your way into a hoist and bigger workshop for your car!

Hi Pelicans,

Sorry for not updating this thread more often, but i have been very busy selling the house, buying a new house in Westford MA, with a nice 2 car garage to keep working on the 911.

I still managed to make some progress on the rebuild. I basically sealed the case with a new crank and bearings in it, using Henry Schmidt sealants and recommendations. I installed the cylinders with new rings, bolted the heads-cam towers back on (which I never disassembled). I did not time the camshaft yet, followed Robeys advice and packed everything for shipping. The longblock will travel on the engine stand in the moving truck. Stand should be secured on blocks so it does not move during the trip. I hope the movers will find my idea reasonable...they will be here Sept. 4-5. Some pics:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1377268388.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1377268412.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1377268424.jpg

You've got quite a juggling act going on there - a rebuild and a relo at once - good luck.

Just my opinion, but I would support the front of the long-block against the base of the stand with a 2X6 or other beam/post etc. I've got a mental image of the stress that each bump in the road will impart on those two mounting studs in the back of the case. There's going to be an awful lot of potholes, bumps, and general bouncing around between the southwest and New England, and there've been a few threads recently of engines being dropped due to stud pull-outs or other damage even when properly mounted.

Both of your rebuild threads inspired me when I did my top-end, I'd hate to see you meet with more misfortune (and rebuild #3!)

Have a safe journey,
GK

Personally I think I would rather just get some lumber and build a nice custom crate for the motor. Would be cheap and I would save tons of money on the prescriptions for anxiety meds I would need worrying about it till it got to MA.

I would find a wood pallet, take the motor off the stand, and strap it on to the pallet with inexpensive harbor freight ratcheting straps or whatever for transport.

I think shipping it like that is asking for expensive problems but if you do good luck with it.

I think I am going to follow your advice, guys. I was also worrying about the studs snapping off during transport...

I just got myself a pallet from shipping & delivery. This is the nice part about working in a manufacturing facility:) Will stop at harbor freight for some straps and should be set to go.

I couldn't help but think the same thing about all the bumps, hills, and corners involved with travelling along the road!!

Good luck with your move, Aurel.

BTW, is that a piece of wood used to hold up the chain? Good idea.SmileWavy

How's that?

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/7aYq0yjQJlCkwt-W--VvVdMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ROsPNWOAOt0/UhoS_PFNl2I/AAAAAAAACDc/IzP4p9tTCqs/s144/image.jpg" height="108" width="144" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/ad8588975/Rebuild2?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">Rebuild2</a></td></tr></table>

That's more like it. :) good luck with the move. You'll be here just in time to enjoy the fall foliage season.