Sometimes the case can be stubborn and I can appreciate people's reluctance to really whack on the case with a mallet.

Make sure you've got all the hidden nuts removed. Theres the ones in the oil cooler recess and also the ones by the flywheel that people forget. Also one inside the chain opening on one side of the case.

You can use a spreader tool with very light pressure. Just use it in places where the case is very well supported and your tool fits nicely. I have used a brake pad press in the breather cover opening and at the front fan area to coax the case apart. The hardest part to separate is at the flywheel because those studs inside the oil cooler recess have dowel sleeves to align the case at the #1 main bearing location

I am thinking about building a simple case splitter tool with a threaded tube and copper bolts on both ends. By unscrewing the bolts I would expand the tool and apply pressure at various points. I will stop at Lowes after work to pick up the cheap parts I need for that.

Victory!
 

I didn't even have to build a tool, already had it: a simple gear puller from which I removed the arms, stuck it under the fan base and split the case by turning the screw. Simple as that, there was a loud bang and the case opened. I bet this is the first time since 1978, and I would still be at it with the hammer method. I hope my little trick will help others...

https://picasaweb.google.com/ad8588975/Rebuild2#5871001475706836754
https://picasaweb.google.com/ad8588975/Rebuild2#5871001487967127634

"A loud bang" doesn't leave a warm and fuzzy feeling..........I've never had a case make a noise when it's being split. Hope nothing in broken :(

Count your case bolts. Bet you missed a couple. I had gone over mine several times and missed the "cap" nuts (look just like the ones on the end of the case through bolts, but they don't go on case through bolts) that are inside of where the on-engine oil cooler attaches (they are covered by the cooler when it is on).

Todd

I have the other half of the case on the bench, and I did not see anything broken or a bolt I had forgotten. It was just a very stubborn case ;).

Thanks again Aurelien for sharing your tips & experience with great photos . I am sure this will come in handy for my 3.0L rebuild.

Curious to know what your oilpump drive bearing looked like?
Peter in Melbourne Au.

Crankshaft
 

I measured my crankshaft, and its does not look good:

All the rod bearing shafts were at the minimum wear limit (52.959 mm) but the #6 that spun a bearing is 153-180 microns under (52.806, 52.781). The mains were also slightly below (59.944) or slightly above (56.969) the wear limit of 56.960.

So in summary, I have crankshaft that was already at its wear limit and was further damaged by a spun rod bearing.

The way I see it, there are three options:

Option 1:Send it to Ollie's for grinding the main & rod shafts 250 microns undersized. Cost of grind, heat treat and micro polish would be $275, $210, $50 that is $545. Then I have to add the cost of .25 mm undersized main and rod bearings $1239.25, $282 so a grand total of $2,066.

Option 2: Same as above minus grinding the main shafts. That brings the cost down to $460 for grind, heat treat, micro polish and $282, $212.50 for bearings, so total of $954.50.

Option 3: find a good used crankshaft.

I'd start by seeing what may be out there, for #3.

Undersized bearings cost that much more than standard????

From our host, glyco does not make them, they have to be ordered from Porsche. The rod bearings are not too bad, but the mains are the killer...

You can gave bearings coated to take up the slack? Or not that much coating?

Problem is the one that spun. Way too much slack on that one.

That's what I did. Made better $ sense to get a good used crank instead of spending a bunch of $ on machining and undersized bearings. A good STD crank in SC flavor is around $800 to $1000. I got mine from Ed Baus

Undersize bearings are made by Glyco. It's just that only Porsche carries them. Pelican just carries std. bearings.

I discovered there was a big engine rebuilding place about two minutes drive from work, so I dropped them my cases and oil cooler for cleaning in a parts washer. Good deal. I am also waiting on a possible replacement crankshaft candidate that still has to be measured. Found a replacement piston too. The slow reassembly process will then begin...

Make sure the oil cooler(s) are ultrasonically cleaned and flowed in both directions to clear out any bearing debris. Also make sure to clean your auxiliary and internal thermostats via disassembly, as well all of your oil lines- including tiny cam housing supply lines (and chain tensioners if applicable). Be anal and make sure they all are VERY clean

I found bearing debris in both my t-stats and noticed plenty of it in my front oil cooler. That nice Fluidyne front cooler is being retired. I shelved my engine oil cooler and will pay the $ to have it cleaned eventually. Engine mounted cooler is a valuable piece that should be salvaged if at all possible.

Got my cases and oil cooler back from the cleaner. They had a little ultrasonic bath:

http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/...qu/image-5.jpg
http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/...qu/image-4.jpg

Nice and clean. New head studs planned?

-Andrew

No, I already replaced head-studs in rebuild #1.

I have to remove galley plugs to clean the oil passages and make sure nothing got stuck in there. I may also polish the case a bit with some Al polishing paste. Gotta keep busy cleaning that bad boy ;).

I've seen one case semi polished, it looked great! The person used a fine wire wheel on a drill, he said it only took 20 minutes per case half.