Yep, I'm working on the DFU location "issue" right now. My plan is to put a "shelf" behind the CIS and mount the DFUs lying flat so that the wires plug in towards the ground rather than being mounted vertically. I will have to make certain that I know which wire goes into which socket since the unit on the right side will be completely hidden. I am backdating the heat so at least the old heater motor and hoses won't be in the way on the left side. I thought about stacking the DFUs on the left side, but the length of the plug wires might be an issue. Thanks for the heads up!

Neatness attack..........
 

Had to stop and clean up the shop! Just could not take it anymore! Straightened out the work benches a bit, washed and put up tools and mopped the floor. Now, at least, I don't have to worry (as much) about dirt finding it's way into the engine!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1369167111.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1369167159.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1369167208.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1369167261.jpg

Looks like a great place to work!

Have you kept count of the hours it's taken you thus far?

Ben.

Time spent............
 

I started this project on May 1st and probably have spent about 80 hours on it over the last 3 weeks. Of course, that does not include the time spent over the last 4-5 years gathering parts like heads, cylinder kit, pistons, etc. Before I pulled the engine I had about 90% of the bits and pieces on hand to do the rebuild. I did not want to get into the middle of the job and find that some part was a long lead time item! Thanks for following along!

Thank you for all the details!

Does the new tinware fit the Nickies well?

Wednesday 22nd...............
 

Spent some time building a bracket to mount the DFUs (Direct Fire Units). Wound up using two pieces of steel angle, one turned up and one down. I left the back panel solid to prevent the DFUs from coming in contact with the engine compartment sound insulation. I cut out most of the front flange, leaving only 3 tabs for mounting purposes. Pictures.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1369278820.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1369278908.jpg

The right DFU will be completely hidden behind the CIS system, so I will need to know which plug wire goes where before installing the engine. The left DFU should be visible as I am backdating the heat and eliminating the large blower motor that mounts on the left side. Will probably use some clip on plug wire labels to help keep things sorted out.

I also installed a couple more of the Electromotive XDi/Clewett Engineering parts on the engine, the distributor hole plug and the sensor mount. Will check the end cover plate tomorrow to see if any "adjustments are required.

Nice job making a mount. Be sure to get your boards grounded well. They technically ground themselves to the mount but it's always a good idea to put an extra ground strap from the mount to the chassis, in addition to the already-present ground wires on the boards themselves.

Day 23................
 

Built a mounting bracket for the ignition control box and installed it (and the box) on the relay panel on the left side of the engine compartment.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1369338448.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1369338470.jpg

The mounting bracket started as a flat piece of 26 gauge sheet metal. I drew the design on graph paper, cut it out and taped it on the metal. Then I used an awl to scratch the design onto the metal and cut it out with shears. Then, I used a couple of blocks of wood and two C clamps to hold the metal while I bent it into shape. Once done, a little work with a file and grindstone and some black paint finished it up. It is built on a slope so that the control dials on the front of the box may be seen more easily. Started in on the wiring, but so far have only plugged in the DFUs to the master plug and finished plugging the DFU wires into the master plug. Will need to get a relay so that I can switch off the power to the DFUs so that the engine will stop running! More later.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1369338963.jpg

Did you get your XDi as a new kit or secondhand? Reason I ask is because I got mine in pieces. Rounded up some parts I needed (additional DFU + DFU harness) to suit my needs for twin plug. However since I got it used, I didn't get any main power relays with the XDi ECU main harness.

Do you know what size relay is needed for each power feed from the battery? Instruction manual doesn't indicate relay capacity.......

Thanks and keep up the good work!

I think the xdi unit is really recommended to be mounted out of the engine bay. This is ofcourse a choice but i followed this advice and fitted it inside the cabin under the drivers seat. Don`t want that unit to go bad.

Anyway the rest is looking great. SmileWavy

KTL: Check out page 22 / chapter 4.4 in the xdi manual. Think that`s what you`re looking for? SmileWavy

Control box.........
 

Don't fault you one bit for your mounting selection! However, with as much air as the engine fan pulls into the engine compartment, I am willing to take a chance on locating the control box there. I considered locating it under a seat, but accessing it to make timing adjustments could be difficult. I considered mounting it vertically behind the passenger seat but finally decided to try to keep everything in one spot. I might have regrets later on, I guess only time will tell!

Power requirements...........
 

KTL,

See if this is what you are looking for! Generally speaking, you can expect a power draw of about 1 amp per 1000 rpm. So, if you spin your engine to 7K, you would need at least 7 amps (per DFU). Hope this helps.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1369360229.jpg

Bits and pieces.........
 

Kevin,

I bought my set new. However, it did not come with the necessary relays. I will get a couple from my local NAPA dealer. They carry (at least) 1 that is equipped with a diode to prevent a power surge when the power is turned off.

Fred,

I read that page a number of times and, duh, didn't pick up on the fact that it says right there peak current is 10 amps for the power supply. Not to mention the fuse size is 10 amps. DUH....... :rolleyes: Thanks for the advice and keep up the good work.


Agreed on the ECU location. Engine bay not ideal but considering the 911 engine bay gets some airflow, not the worst location. Need to have the ECU in a suitable location to make your adjustments while checking with the timing light. Otherwise you keep going back and forth to engine bay and inside car to make adjustments.

Another thing to consider is the older HPV systems with the electronics integrated into each board live in the engine bay quite well. I would venture to guess that the XDi ECU is at least as durable as the old HPV DFU? Total assumption on my part.

Should be fine; if worried you could put some reflective heat shield on it such as the self-adhesive gold stuff used on frames near turbo chargers and down pipes.

http://hooniverse.com/wp-content/upl...wing-grill.jpg

Wimped out, Day 24
 

After re-reading the installation info and thinking about the control box location overnight, I decided to move it into the cabin. Yeah, yeah, I know, I'm a wimp, flip-flopper, etc. Anyway, got it installed in the cabin against the rear of the footwell. I did get to use the base that I made so that was not a waste of time! The wiring runs out the bottom of the control box, thru the bulkhead, follows an original wiring harness up to the right side of the engine compartment and then runs across the engine compartment to the left side. Had to extend a couple of wires, but nothing serious. Still have to mount the two relays and wire them up.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1369431607.jpg

Day 25..........
 

Installed the two relays that power the XDi system, made up all the connections and added a couple of extra tie wraps here and there. Then, I went back thru the XDi installation book and checked off each item that was completed. Theoretically, all I have left to do is (once the engine is installed) plug in the switched power lead and the lead for the tachometer and connect the crank sensor to the master harness! I've got the DFUs grounded a couple of ways and have the main ground from the control box set up to ground both to the chassis and engine. I even used my V/O meter to check the ground resistance both at the point of ground and across the engine compartment at another ground point. If this sucker doesn't work, it won't be because of a bad ground! I'm at a bit of a halt on the engine as I am waiting on the delivery of a couple of 23mm piston wrist pin circlips. I managed to bend the last one to go in, so I can't button up that side of the engine until I get the clip and get it installed. So, since I am caught up on the wiring job and stalled on the engine, I'm taking the afternoon off to go see a movie! Y'all enjoy your Memorial Day weekend and remember those whose sacrifices have made it possible.

Later,

Day 25, evening..........
 

Went to see the new Star Trek movie. Very well done, should be well liked by all of the Trekies out there! Great scenes and some very cool stunts!

When I got back to the house, I went out to the shop and took a good look at the CIS system (removed as a unit). After pulling out my books on CIS injection, I believe that I can "simplify" the system somewhat. I'll keep the WUR, AAR and the various electrical bits, but will remove the two AAVs and their associated complex plumbing. What previously filled up the area under the intake runners will now simply be a couple of vacuum hoses. The support bracket for the heater/defrost blower motor will be trimmed up to get rid of un-needed portions and a couple of previously used, but now un-necessary brackets will be removed. The remaining pieces will be transferred onto an early, large port SC airbox with it's large port runners (36mm vs 28mm). This will eliminate a number of potential vacuum leak points as well as making it easier to deal with once on the engine and in the car. More on this later along with some pictures.

Day 26
 

After lunch, I spent some time working on the CIS system that will be going on this engine. First, I spent some time matching the intake runner to the head port size. The head ports are about 3mm larger than the intake runner inside diameter so I used the good ole Dremel tool to bevel the inside edges of the pipes. It is important to have a smooth transition from the intake runner to the head port so that the air flow will stay in a laminar flow. Having an abrupt change in diameter with a "ledge" will cause non laminar flow to develop which interferes with the max amount of air/fuel the engine can be fed.

Original pipe diameter showing how much material needs to be removed.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1369603815.jpg

Pipe with opening beveled to match the cylinder head opening.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1369603901.jpg

The next problem to resolve will be the phenolic spacers. The notch for the fuel injector extends too far and leaves an open space that the intake runner can't cover.

Not sure how I will overcome this, but right now I am considering making my own spacers, probably from aluminum. The phenolic plastic would be easier, but not sure that I can source that material.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1369604002.jpg

Also, I am working on the CIS unit, trying to strip it down to a good fighting weight. So far, I have removed the AAVs and a bunch of vacuum piping. I will keep the WUR, the AAR, the cold start valve, the fuel pump safety switch and the throttle position sensor. It is going to look pretty naked, but I don't see any reason the "lightweight" version won't work. If there are any running issues, I'll find a fix.

Now, on to supper!

Day 27
 

Spent most of the day today working on the CIS system for this engine. Some time ago, I had acquired an early, large port air box and runners for this project. I removed the fuel distributor, throttle body, cold start valve, frequency valve, WUR, AAR, etc. from the small port air box and moved everything to the large port box. In the process, a good bit of "stuff" got removed from the system. Now, I've got some vacuum ports to plug and some new vacuum hoses to run to connect up what's left. Hopefully, this will eliminate a handful of potential vacuum leak locations as well as making it easier to work on once installed in the car. One thing that I have not done yet is to make the WUR adjustable. Will try running with the WUR as is and work on that later if necessary. With the extra air flow, the system might need to be richened up a bit on the top end. Don't want to burn a valve or overheat the engine now!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1369692637.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1369692662.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1369692682.jpg

Day 29
 

Had to take the day off for a trip to Marietta (just north of Atlanta). While there I picked up a fuel distributor gasket, plug wire separators, plug wire numbering clip-ons and a couple of tools. Will be back in the saddle tomorrow!

Day 30
 

Spent some time this morning working on the SSI exhausts that are going on this engine. The Carrera head exhaust ports are larger than those on the SC heads so I decided to flare the inlet tubes on the headers that project up into the exhaust ports. The diameter that they were would have caught some of the exhaust gases and directed the hot gas between the head and the exhaust tube. So, by using a variety of tools, I finally managed to flare the header tubes to just fit in the larger portion of the Carrera head exhaust ports. Now (hopefully) all of the exhaust gasses will be directed down the pipe and out the muffler! Also, I finished putting all new gaskets and seals in the CIS system. All that is left to do to the CIS is to plumb up the AAR and make a small repair to the sub-harness that plugs into the throttle position switch and the safety switch.

CIS system

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1369963866.jpg

Last thing this evening, I bolted the right side cam housing to the heads and then installed the complete assembly on the block. Once everything was bolted and torqued down, I inserted the camshaft to check for any binding. That sucker turns slick as a whistle! Sometimes it is better to be lucky than good! I just had to stick the rocker covers on to see how they looked! I'm stalled on the other side. I need one more wrist pin circlip to complete the left side and run out to the mailbox everyday to see if it has arrived, but so far, no luck. Don't know how to act with all of the head studs in place and holding torque!!

Block assembly with heads on one side!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1369964062.jpg

More to come!

Fred, that's looking very nice... Great combination of black, raw aluminum and silver painted fan. I think it will look great in the black body!

How does your new tinware fit on the LN cylinders?

Would love to learn more on your "light" version of CIS... Did you follow another thread or just go about it yourself?

Thanks in advance,
Ben.

Questions......
 

Ben,

The new SuperTec tinware fits quite well. Very nicely done. The kit does not come with the retainers that run across the top of the cylinders. You have to use the original ones that were on the engine. SuperTec is having some made but they are not available yet.

Thanks for the compliments on the engine. I like the combination of black and aluminum. The engine shroud will be painted black also. Will probably use the black wrinkle paint on the timing chain covers as well.

Ah yes, the CIS system. I am pretty much stepping out on my own here. Not much info available about hot rodding the CIS system. When I get it in and running properly I will share all the details with the folks here. My main goal was to 1) simplify the system and 2) optimize it's ability to make power. I've been thinking about this for a long time (years actually) and have a couple of ideas to try.

Later,

Day 31...........
 

Spent the morning assembling the left side cylinder heads to the cam housing. Once together, did a trial fit on the engine. Cam rotates easily so I presume that the housing is mounted correctly. Had to back up a bit, I installed the right side heads and cam housing last night but forgot to install the oil return tubes! So, off with the right side heads, install tubes and reinstall/torque the right side. After lunch, I installed the right side camshaft and the rockers. No issues there. Have not adjusted the rockers yet, will wait and do that (except for cylinders 1 and 4) after setting the cam timing. Some pictures.

Supertec air control tin installed on engine
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1370040955.jpg

Covers on front of cam housings just to keep junk out of engine
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1370041039.jpg

Starting to look more like an engine!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1370041116.jpg

Day 33.......
 

June 2nd,

Was out of town yesterday, so nothing was done on the engine build.

This afternoon, I cleaned up the oil cooler and installed it to the block. Also repainted the top shroud a gloss black. I was going to paint it a bright yellow, but decided that the black would look better. This way everything will be natural aluminum, black or cadmium plated! A couple of pics.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1370229981.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1370230008.jpg

I also cleaned up some bags of small parts, nuts, bolts and washers that will be needed soon. Still waiting on a wrist pin circlip to show up so that I can button up the left side of the engine!

Later,

Day 34.............
 

Monday,

Put the right side camshaft sealing plate and associated hardware in place, checked the cam gear alignment, etc. Three shims did the trick. The 964 cams use the large washer and bolt rather than the wave washer and large nut so getting the torque to spec won't be as difficult! Spent some time cleaning parts that will be going back on the engine soon and then spent some time cleaning up the shop and putting tools away. I've been boxing up and storing bits that will not be reused on this engine so I am finally starting to see the surfaces of my workbenches again! I have been waiting on the arrival of a 23mm piston pin circlip needed to finish the left side of the engine. I finally "gave up" and ordered a set which hopefully will be here in 2-3 days. Once I get that small part, progress will speed up exponentially. Meanwhile I'll continue to do the little jobs (which have to be done anyway) and have subassemblies ready to go when needed!

Before
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1370341439.jpg

Now
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1370341507.jpg

If nothing else, the car will be pounds lighter from all the dirt and grime that has come off!

Day 35......
 

Took some time today to mock up the plug wire routing for the twin plug ignition. It took a while to decide which length wire should go where, both top and bottom! With the DFUs mounted between the shock towers just ahead of the engine, the wires will have plenty of length. Once I got everything sorted out, I put clip on wire numbers on each wire to make certain they get plugged into the correct terminal. I did get some good news, the set of 23mm wrist pin circlips that I had ordered have been shipped and should be here in a couple of days!!! Some pics.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1370395844.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1370395868.jpg

That's a bunch of wires to have to keep straight!

Looking great Fred! Really nice. And I for one am duly impressed by the progress.

Found some old CIS enhancement threads and saw that you've been scratching your head over it for several years: I look forward to seeing what you end up doing!

Thanks again for sharing,
Ben.

At least twice........
 

I figure that by the time I am done, I will have built this engine at least twice! Each step gets a dry run to make certain that everything fits as it should. Only then does it get bolted and torqued! The good news is that (so far) everything has worked/assembled as it should. Don't need any problems at this stage!!

Later,

Day 38
 

Spent some time this morning going thru the engine wiring loom. Cut the old wrappings off, removed the coil wires, the distributor "green" wire and the wires for the heater blower motor. Also took out the wires running to the old socket for the voltage regulator (alternator has an internal regulator). Once the un-needed bits were gone, I rewrapped the harness with a couple of layers of black electrical tape. Where the tape ended on top, I sealed that with some self-sealing, stretchable tape, the stuff that adheres to itself and has to be cut off to remove. Just one more small job that needed to be done!

Main harness
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1370641392.jpg

Wires that were removed (heater blower wires not shown)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1370641436.jpg

Day 39
 

Finally got the wrist pin circlips that I ordered to replace the one that I damaged trying to install. So, the last circlip is now installed, the left side heads and cam housing are in place and torqued and the left cam is in. I'm working on the cam gear alignment check now but stopped to check on a question about the measuring process in Wayne's book. Got that all sorted out, so after supper I will proceed with the festivities! I made a list of things remaining to be done (about 40) so I will be able to scratch off at least a couple of them tonight. I hope to get everything ready to do the cam timing tomorrow. I believe that will be best done when as fresh as possible!

Later,

Day 40
 

Hit a roadblock last night. When I was setting up the cam gear alignment on the left side, I discovered that I have misplaced the cam gear key! Sooooo, that part of the rebuild will have to wait until the replacement part comes in from PP. Not wanting to pay $5.00 shipping on a $1.00 part, I also ordered a new clutch disc and some other bits. That way, I get the $3 air shipping! Ok, so meanwhile, I have reinstalled the SSI exhausts. This is the first time that I have put a set on an engine that was not in the car. Much easier with the engine upside down on a stand! In fact, it might be worth pulling an engine just to do this job!!! The SSIs look good, sound good, work good, etc., but it takes me a wide variety of tools to install a set and get all the fasteners properly tightened down! Here is a picture of the tools that I wound up using to bolt these puppies back on the motor.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1370791012.jpg

And a picture of the engine with exhausts attached.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1370791078.jpg

At least there are now 6 holes leading into the engine that are closed up!

Day 41, Waiting is the hard part..............
 

Can't do much more until the cam woodruff key comes from PP. I did take the time to cut a new hole in the left engine tin for the backdated heater hose, removed the curved tube from the front tin and made a filler piece to close up that hole. I realized that I had not bought spark plugs for the new engine, so this morning I went out and secured 12 NGK plugs. I went ahead and installed the top plugs, but will leave the bottom ones out until I time the cams and finish installing and adjusting the other rockers. This morning I discovered a small interference between some of the bottom head nuts and the sparkplug socket. So, I removed them one at a time and ground a small 45 degree bevel on the top of the nut. Not enough to weaken the head nut, but enough to allow the standard plug socket to slide by. Once done, each head nut was retorqued before the next one was removed. I went ahead and plugged the top plug wires into the DFUs and left them draped over the fender on each side. The bottom plug wires will go in with the engine.

Do the lower plug holes use the same size plug (14mm) as the uppers? Usual trick is to use smaller spark plugs with 12mm threads to allow better access with spark plug socket.

Top and bottom
 

Yes, both are drilled and tapped for the 14mm plugs. They were done like this when I got them. Thanks to Henry at Supertec, I now know about plugs that are 14mm but have a reduced hex size. The work that I did this morning solved the interference problems for me but might not be the solution for everyone!

Day 42, Progress at last!
 

The care package from Pelican Parts arrived this afternoon. Included in the goodies was the camshaft woodruff key that I needed to proceed. So, with tiny little part in hand, I went to work. Got the left cam timing gear assembled and both cams timed. I am using 964 camshafts and set the timing at 1.26 with the rockers adjusted to 0.1mm clearance. It took me several tries on the left camshaft to get it right, but then the right cam just seemed to time up easily! Once both cams were timed and the bolts torqued, I went back to the left side and rechecked it. Torqueing the bolt changed the setting slightly so I made one more adjustment and re-torqued the cam bolt. This time it checked out right on the money! The right side checked out ok and did not require any more work. Once the cams were done, I installed and adjusted the rockers for cylinders #5 and #6. Installed the rocker cover gaskets, rocker covers and added all of the washers and self locking nuts. Tomorrow I will finish up the left side and then go to work on re-installing the Carrera tensioners and associated plumbing. The CIS system and the wiring harness have both been gone thru and are ready to bolt on the long block. Looks like I might be ready to take the new engine off the stand soon!

Lower plug mod
 

Here are a couple of pictures of the modification that I made to the lower head stud nuts to allow clearance for a spark plug socket. These are two of the old head nuts that I used to experiment on. The engine has new head washers and hex nuts (6 of the lower ones with the bevel ground on them).

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1371084731.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1371084769.jpg

Day 43, Thursday......
 

Installed the tensioners and finished sealing up the front covers. Added the Carrera oil tensioner lines, etc. Now that the cams are timed, I put the fan assembly back on and tightened the holding strap. A new (to me) Carrera motor mount arrived. I had bought this piece because the a/c pulley on the XDi pulley assembly is larger than the one from the stock SC engine and the old cover would not fit over the larger pulley. So, some time was spent doing a few mods to make it fit the 3.0 block (one mounting stud is different), added a muffler support bracket, modified the SC a/c bracket to fit the new motor mount and made some changes to the front (pulley end) engine tin so that it would work with the new mount. Now that all of the changes are done and checked, it will come back off and get painted before being installed for a final time!