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That's the point... exactly how you go about removing broken exhaust studs from aluminum cylinder heads for example. That area is far more delicate than this...
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Well too late now...but I was going to suggest securing the engine, then attaching a strap around the transmission and pulling it with a come-along or ratcheting tie-down.
If extremely high tension on the transmission didn't result in separation, then alternating rounds of heat/mallet/penetrant could be applied (while transmission still under tension) until it broke free. Next time. |
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Your 'shim' should work, however you could also insert a tube the exact width of the bell housing mount & let that take the bolt head pressure. BTW which Dremel wheel did you use to cut the slot? I always thought they were too lightweight for a task like this ( I might buy one now). I hope things will be straightforward for you from now on. Good luck Peter in Australia |
Removing exhust studs
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If it's broken flush to the head you can put a nut of appropriate size over it and fill with weld. Just another trick...
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I have a small Dremel tool. There is now a larger one that looks like a small angle grinder. There is a cutting disc you can get for it which is approx. 3" in diameter. I used one of these on my smaller Dremel. I had to use some washers to make it fit as the hole in the cutting wheel is much bigger than the small screw on the tool itself.
The stud remaining in the engine casing is not protruding much and I will need to drill it out and use a stud extractor. Heat will be applied! The remaining stud in the bell housing will not budge. I have tried drifting it out but it is almost as if it has become part of the housing itself! I will need to drill this out but it's in an unthreaded hole so it should be relatively easy. I should probably mention at this point that I am an trained aircraft repair stress engineer and so overcoming this type of problem with complex metallic structure is really my day job! And yes, aircraft do corrode! |
At last after a delay of a month or so whilst I got the right tools, begged and borrowed engine crane etc, I now have my engine on a stand and ready to work on.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1373490211.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1373490229.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1373490248.jpg Flywheel is looking a little rough though! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1373490266.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1373490283.jpg Oddly, the clutch action was perfect! This is becoming more of a labour of love rather than a quick head stud fix, but I keep telling myself it will all be worthwhile in the end. |
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Thanks for your support! I never got any useful alternatives from this site to my problem, and it has worked well for me! I wonder how many people actually do this type of job. It is a massive task to remove an engine and gearbox and replace head studs!
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Keep at it Keynsham - you had an unusual hurdle to clear, but you're back on track. Think if this as a series of small projects instead of one big one - that's what I did. Don't forget to have fun along the way. The satisfaction you'll feel at the end will make it all worth it.
Good Luck! GK |
Smoove1010 makes an excellent point... have fun along the way!
Recently had my 3.2 out to deal with a variety of things. Will 2nd the motion on "series of small projects." http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1373821965.jpg |
Any progress reports - are you working in the shade?
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I read that you are having wonderful summer weather, while we in Australia have miserable cold rainy days. Are you working outside under a 'shade tree'?:D Peter in Melbourne |
I'm glad I came across this thread. I too am in the middle of doing much of the
same aside from the stud. I had tons of little leaks and doing the ole "while I'm at it routine." While reading this a light when off. I found what I thought was a crack in my bell housing. I know am convinced that at some point someone did the exact same to remove my trans. Though going through my records I have been unable to find where any clutch work had ever been done. This was odd to me because I have what has looked like every single receipt for all the prior jobs on the engine. So, your solution appears to be one that has been done before. What I have been searching for is torque specs for the oil cooler bolts. Also, I found that one of my lower bolts (closest to the rear of the engine) that hold on the cooler was missing its washer. So, either Porsche only puts washers on 3 of the bolts or, again, the o rings had once been replaced and the washer was not reinstalled. Did you have all 4 or did yours only have 3 as well? Would you happen to know those torque numbers? Thanks, keep pluggin along Scott |
I have ground to a halt at the moment. I am waiting for Pelican to deliver to me the two tools needed for removing the camshaft nuts. It seems impossible to get them in the UK. No second hand ones I could find. Porsche now claim they are NLS, and no dealer will lend them to me. I have an email from Pelican saying they are on order and should be sent out my the end of the month. I am sceptical. They also have to get to the UK and through customs so it could be a few weeks before I can continue. Very frustrating. I have had the flywheel skimmed in preparation for the new clutch, but little else.
I have ordered all the parts I think I need now so these should be arriving soon. I already have a pile of parts to fit and it is getting bigger. Meanwhile the engine is sitting in my garage on a stand looking very sad for itself! |
I am sorry to hear about the misfortune.
While you are waiting for the tools and the rest of the parts: I would take this time to clean clean clean as much as you can.... it's boring, but it will be rewarding when you're able to get back to work... |
Plan B
You can use a 46mm socket and an air wrench to remove the two camshaft nuts. I used a lower setting on the air wrench and kept hitting the nut until it just started to turn. Once it was loosened about 1/4 turn it came off easily. Use the chain tensioner wheel to keep the chain tight while doing so. You can back completely off the rocker adjustments if you are worried about damaging a valve.
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Posted from Pelicanparts.com App for Android |
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I havent started work on mine yet - but I have enquired around and managed to to get a local Pelican to agree to lend me these 'hard-to-get' tools when I commence my own project to fix the 3.0 head studs. I hope its plain sailing with yours from now on. Regards Peter in Melbourne PS: Do you live in the village of Keynsham? I did some genealogical research for a very elderly lady in that town. She has since passed but it was fascinating detective work, as she thought she had an Australian connection. |
46mm Crows foot tool
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