Advice needed - Cam Towers / Valve Covers.

[BrianS]

Honored Members of the Pelican Parts forums. I throw myself on the mercy of the group and come asking advice.



THE FACTS:
1987 Porsche 911 Cab.
81,000 miles
No documentation -- was told valve guide job has been done
Compression good... 170, 165, 175, 175, 189, 180
"Triangle of death" leaks on back of motor were addressed when I had clutch job done
Have had valves covers off twice - head studs did not fall out
Motor runs good

THE PROBLEM:
Oil leaking from cam towers and lower valve covers
Local Porsche shop quoted 19 hours -- about $3,000 to fix Cam Towers leak.

MY SKILLS:
I am pretty mechanical... have decent tools and a garage at home.
I have rebuilt Ford motors before.
Have adjusted the valves, replaced oil-return tubes, etc... on this car.

MY QUESTIONS:
Should I attempt this job myself?
Should I just seal / fix the cam towers or should replace the head studs too?
Not wanting to do a full rebuild just for the hell of it.
Not wanting to track the car... just spirited driving
Should I drop the motor?
Should I estimate two full days? Four?

I realize there are lots of variables, but I am just trying to get my bearing about the project.

Thanks all for advice.
BrianS

[Lapkritis]

$3g? Heck friggen yes I would do that job myself. Then I would take myself and wifey out for fancy dinners for a week in the car. And still save $2g.

[Savagewomble]

Go to a different garage!!!!!!
Even in the uk it wouldn't cost that

[KTL]

Darn right do it yourself. Pulling the cam towers is easy and you don't even have to touch the head studs. The only thing of any difficulty is cam timing. It's a piece of cake when you understand the procedure and you have the proper tools. Can even borrow the tools since so many people have them.

Lower valve covers is probably the rocker shaft leaking (can installl ring seals for added protection against this) or just need to have your valve covers themselves trued/flattened on a grinder table. Neither is a big deal to do.

[K Sykes]

With the $2800 you save (oil, some gaskets...) you could spend a few $ on some hotter cams and still be way ahead.. and you have basically no incremental cost other than the cams themselves.

[Flat6pac]

Check the rocker locations.
Rocker shafts will move off location and are a direct leak to the ground.
Visually, there is a narrow and wide boss holding the rocker shaft in place.
You want to see the end of the shaft at or just above flush on the narrow boss.
The narrow boss change sides from exhaust side to intake side. You will see it opening the valve covers
Bruce

[BrianS]

Thanks all, this is good news. Thanks for the encouragement.

So, it sounds it is not required to drop the motor then to accomplish this. I suspected that was the case.

As per the rocker shafts, yes, I noticed one of had shifted when I adjusted the valves. I was unable to loosen the shaft no matter what but I was able to twist it back and forth a few times and scoot it over close to where it needs to be.

Sorry for another dumb question but is there a secret to loosening the rocker shafts? I have good allen wrenches but was unable to loosen this one. It would just pivot off center.

I have ordered Dempsey's "How to Rebuild and Modify Porsche 911 Engines" book and will do a bit of deep reading before ordering the necessary parts.

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by BrianS

Thanks all, this is good news. Thanks for the encouragement.

So, it sounds it is not required to drop the motor then to accomplish this. I suspected that was the case.

As per the rocker shafts, yes, I noticed one of had shifted when I adjusted the valves. I was unable to loosen the shaft no matter what but I was able to twist it back and forth a few times and scoot it over close to where it needs to be.

Sorry for another dumb question but is there a secret to loosening the rocker shafts? I have good allen wrenches but was unable to loosen this one. It would just pivot off center.

I have ordered Dempsey's "How to Rebuild and Modify Porsche 911 Engines" book and will do a bit of deep reading before ordering the necessary parts.

It's suggested to diagnose in person. Doing it via text messages is a best-guess situation. Have you confirmed the oil leak is at the cam housing/cylinder head junction? There are several potential leak sources above the lower valve covers. Make sure that's not the case for your engine. If not, proceed.

Understand that, with the exception of the intake valve area, most of this work will be performed below the engine sheet metal surround. Unless you can support the car high enough to be in a sitting position instead of on your back, I'd suggest you consider pulling the engine. It'll make this process much easier the first time around, especially access.

Yes, perform more b.g. research on what's involved. It's not especially difficult, but there are a lot of details to encounter and consider as well as some special tools required or borrowed (e.g. remove the cam sprockets; precision measuring instruments to determine wear specs, etc.). I would characterize this job as more involved than easy. On a scale of 1-10 for a relative Porsche neophyte, I'd estimate an 7-8. And there's always a good chance you'll run into a glitch.

However, you'll encounter many decisions to make about replacing or refurbishing worn or "while-you're-there" parts and machining. If you get into the engine as far as replacing head studs and all that entails (R&R studs, some stubborn, replacement studs, valve job, rings, gaskets, etc., IMHO, you'll be up tight and cozy to the $3K figure if not more.

Sherwood

[E Sully]

I'm sure the price quoted included removal and reinstall of the engine. If you have the space and the tools you could do it yourself. It is not extremely difficult, but it is not a simple job. Best way to access the rocker arm shafts is with the engine out and on a stand, the allen screw spinning on you shows that sometimes you need access to both sides. There is a good chance you will not have to separate the cam housing from the heads.