They didn't cover this in the valve adjustment video

haggis780 · haggis780's Garage

It was all going quite well really .........I had watched the Yellow Cap Garage dvd several times and felt ready to tackle the job. I removed the engine compartment valve covers and then started removing the valve covers under the car.

On the drivers side - a washer was lying in the valve cover when I removed and then this fell out - the obvious question - what is it and what does this mean - and is there a video that covers how to fix this lol I was going to tackle dropping the engine this winter.....I have a feeling that will be now.

haggis780 · haggis780's Garage

mreid · 07-28-2013, 03:53 PM

It's still a broken head stud.

docrodg · 07-28-2013, 03:56 PM

That dear sir is a broken head stud (cue crowd screaming in fear). Looks like you will be tearing that engine down. If you are lucky your case will already be reinforced with case savers or be the stronger aluminum case. If that is the case (pun intended) then a top end rebuild will likely do. Test the stud if curious... if a magnet sticks to it then it is a steel stud and something went seriously wrong to break it. If non-magnetic it is a Dilivar stud and you will want to replace all the dilivar studs with steel, ARP, or Raceware studs before they too snap.

Chances are it is dilivar. How many miles and what year/engine? That info can give you an idea if you should do a full rebuild. Also check other wear items like valve guides. If run for a while like that you may have damaged a cylinder and head as well.

911pcars · 07-28-2013, 03:57 PM

Uh oh. Unfortunately, there are chapters written on this topic.

That is a portion of a head stud. It's broken. The other half is still threaded in the crankcase. You have 24 of them, 4 per cylinder.

Go to Google.com, then type the search terms, "Pelican broken head stud", then continue reading. Short answer: Requires removal of top end, pistons/cylinder (minimally), and maybe more depending on age and condition of your engine.

The forum is here to help, but suggest absorbing some b.g. info first to get an idea of what's involved to repair.

Sherwood

haggis780 · haggis780's Garage

[QUOTE=docrodg;7573615 How many miles and what year/engine? That info can give you an idea if you should do a full rebuild. Also check other wear items like valve guides. If run for a while like that you may have damaged a cylinder and head as well.[/QUOTE]

It's an 88 3.2 with 150,000 miles on it. Yeah i was thinking (dreading) that actually.

docrodg · 07-28-2013, 04:18 PM

At 150000 miles it may be a good idea to just plan on a whole rebuild. Not sure, but i believe that is about the lifespan of the bottom end for a 3.2 engine or close to it. Others on here can answer that better than I can. Even though I prefer not to spend money unnecessarily I would probly just do the whole engine anyway with that kind of mileage.

haggis780 · haggis780's Garage

Well - have got almost all of the engine and transmission disconnected - just need a few items and the engine can be dropped this week - let the fun begin!

haggis780 · haggis780's Garage

Wayne's book showed up yesterday - had a quick look through it and completely overwhelmed - but I think it is a case of slowly working through and asking questions along the way. Going to try and get the engine dropped this weekend.

911pcars · 08-02-2013, 06:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by haggis780

Wayne's book showed up yesterday - had a quick look through it and completely overwhelmed - but I think it is a case of slowly working through and asking questions along the way. Going to try and get the engine dropped this weekend.

Sounds like your first 911 rebuild. If so, suggest, time, experience, tools and an idea of what it entails. You have Dempsey's book. Also suggest reading it until you understand everything.

It's not necessary for you to fix it. You have other options. Depends on budget and other variables. For example, you could source another engine, then sell yours for parts or for a core.

Sherwood