Rod Weight Difference ... Other 993 engine build advice.

tocobill · 10-25-2013, 09:08 AM

I know this has gotten beat up over the years. Arrow vs Pauter vs Carrillo. I got it but I cant seem to find any info on what the actual rod weights are for each 993 aftermarket rod is. Any one help me out?

Leaning towards Pauter rods with the Carrillo "issues" talked about lately. Arrow seem to be a premium price .. worth it? I also see Ti pankl rods online for about the same price used .. not sure if its worth buying used rods even if they are Ti and longevity issues. So anyone have the rod weights Im after?

Also ...

I am in the process of finding out whether my 993 crank is salvageable. It had a #5 rod bearing that got spun. Anyone have a good source on where I can send it to get looked at? I have had some local guys ... Im in Baltimore look at it. One says it not that bad another didnt know. I was told to contact Peter Dawe as he would be able to judge what could be done. If it cant be fixed Im looking at a new GT3 crank as its not much more for the money vs a used std/std crank. Also told he would be able to set me up with a good set up. Pistons are marginal so replacing them isnt an issue. Barrels will get re-plated ... They are the stock 3.6 993 version. Cases look great. Not other damage other then the rod journal and rod. Engine will be going into my longhood RSR build. Will be running PMO carbs. Ti valve hardware and upgraded springs. Going to keep the hydraulic lifters and run RS cam. Max 7K ... dont want to run more then that but want to make sure a missed shift wont trash the engine. Street driven with occasion club event.

Any other info or advice.

tocobill · 10-28-2013, 11:58 AM

Slow week in the rebuilding forum ...

KTL · 10-28-2013, 03:35 PM

Well there's also R&R Pro connecting rods too if you're looking for one more brand to consider........

Pauter makes very nice rods and they're strong. Saved my engine from busting a hole in the case. Equally important is Brian Pauter is a very nice guy and willing to work with you on what you need. Example, recently sent him my old Pauter rods (the ones that saved my engine from even worse destruction) and he easily could have said, "dude, you're better off just buying a new set of my rods......" but instead was willing to have his guys take the time to inspect mine, resize & rebush (with oversize bushes due to some weird stripping of the bore) the fixable ones, and provide me a new weight-matched rod to replace wasted #5 rod. Plus new ARP2000 rod bolts for all rods. All that for about 1/2 the price of a new set. Its pretty much guaranteed that at the next build cycle I will time-out these rods and send my business to Pauter once again, this time for a new set. Good guy in my book.

Speaking of cranks, coincidentally I recently had a used SC crank race-prepped by David & co. at Marine Crank in California. I sourced a used crank since it didn't make sense to send them my damaged crank. Every journal of my existing crank was scored by bearing failure and the crank was already rather thin in terms of STD measurements anyway.

Marine did a fantastic job. Crack checked, straight checked, cross-drilled #2 & #5 rod journals, grooved #4 main and drilled beautiful looking oiling hole in it, mildly lightened, micropolished, and re-hardened (plasma re-nitriding). Also had it back to me in the timeline they said they would too. Which can sometimes be the biggest hurdle in this industry as some people know!

Cool feature they also provide is removal of the aluminum plugs and tap them for removable steel set screws. Makes cleaning of the crank a breeze. What's even cooler is they drilled the snout at the pulley end for a removable plug down beneath the crank pulley bolt threads. Also drilled the dowel hole at the flywheel end for a removable plug? That was odd..... Never would have noticed the snout plug if David hadn't called me today to give me a heads up! Big thumbs up from me for Marine Crankshaft.

It's pretty fuchin' beautiful. Proud papa of a girl & two boys and a "new" crank

BTW Marine is the shop that makes Supertec's GT3 SuperCranks.

tocobill · 10-28-2013, 03:53 PM

Thanks Kevin. I know Henry uses them for crank works. My journal doesn't look that bad. But def needs polished or more. I really like the idea of removable set screws for the plugs. I will give them a call. I hope not to get a new crank. But if I do I was looking at the gt3 for the little extra. Will get pauter rods. I've heard so many good things. Just curious about the weight vs the other big 3 rod companies. From what I've seen Henry also uses pauter rods. Does marine do other machine work? Would love to find a one stop shop. Seems there is not source local to me. Saw a place in NJ. Seems everyone else is out west. Thanks a lot for the heads up.

tocobill · 10-30-2013, 12:06 PM

Crank got shipped off to Marine Crank today. Talked to David on the phone. Said a few weeks wait. Thanks again guys.

AlfonsoR · 10-30-2013, 08:11 PM

Kevin, I guess I missed the rebuild thread?? But thanks for the quick review on Marine Crank.

And Toco, thanks for posting this thread! Hope your engine turns out great. I too am considering a nice set of rods for my rebuild.

KTL · 10-31-2013, 06:43 AM

No re-rebuild thread yet. Just now rounding up my last few items to begin building the engine back up. Got my crank from Marine last Friday, resurrected rods from Pauter should be delivered today and engine case is with Craig @ G2 for some shuffle-sleeving. Humpty Dumpty will be back on the wall a bit stronger this time!

AlfonsoR · 10-31-2013, 07:51 AM

^ in my best Arnold Schwartzenager voice.... Strong is guud, ya!

What's a good way to ship a crank, packing-wise in order to minimize possibility of damage? And UPS or FedEx?

AlfonsoR · 08:36 PM

Quote:

^ in my best Arnold Schwartzenager voice.... Strong is guud, ya!

What's a good way to ship a crank, packing-wise in order to minimize possibility of damage? And UPS or FedEx?

PS - i didn't mention it previously, but the work by Marine Crank looks excellent!! I have seen some work posted here that looks like it was done by a beginner. Seems like MC pays really close attention to detail.

PPS - sorry, i didn't mean to quote myself ... fat finger on iPhone.

KTL · 10-31-2013, 09:01 AM

Yeah the fillets around the drillings are fantastic. The groove in the crank is perfect. The removable plugs are a huge benefit for anybody who regularly builds the engine. I was VERY pleased to find that as I was expecting to have to R&R the plugs myself. Very nice work for sure. I'm REAL happy with the work they did and would gladly recommend them to anyone.

BTW if you plan to remove the timing gear, spacer, distributor drive gear, huge woodruff key and retaining circlip, you need to DIY it (not hard with a propane torch and two jaw puller) because Marine does not.

Shipping....... meh. Don't skimp on box size. Double wall your box and use PLENTY of sturdy packing material. The crank is heavy and could EASILY punch its way out of the box. I also wrapped the crank itself in a couple of heavy mil thickness garbage bags.

I supported the crank on both ends to keep it from wanting to use its weight to migrate around in the box. I had a block of cardboard like 4 in. thick that came in some previous packing (i'm a packing material hoarder) and it was perfect to support the crank pulley snout. I used a hole saw to bore the cardboard block and it was perfect to use on that end of the crank. Just bolted it on there with a big washer and a brake caliper bolt (M12 x 1.5)

I packed it in a good sized box I had on-hand to ensure there was plenty of protection around it. Can never be too careful with how packages are handled these days. Expected it to be manhandled, not handled with care. Incidentally I really wish Marine would have sent my crank back in the box I shipped it in. Because their box is a nice size but doesn't provide enough protection IMO. My crank returned home with some external damage on the box that had me concerned. Thankfully there were no markings on the crank counterweights that would give indication of drop-damage.

The box it came back in had been used a few times before because it had old staple marks in it. So I suspect the weight of other packages sitting on my box helped wear thru the worn cardboard. Since my counterweights were slightly lightened (looks like 1/2 of a knife edge) it allowed the box to be "cut" more easily?

But they do a nice job of sending it back. Fairly clean (still have to fully clean it yourself), WELL sprayed with corrosion protectant, wrapped in heavy mil plastic bag & cardboard corrugated paper, box securely closed with copper staples

tocobill · 10-31-2013, 02:25 PM

I took 3 inch egg shell foam and wrapped the crank a few times. I used a bunch of wire ties to hold the foam in place. Took extra time to wrap both ends to make sure it could take a drop on the end no problem. David @ MC said this happens alot or they get a box with half the crank hanging out of it.

I too a long cardboard box and rolled the crank up in it. I cut the ends so they would fold on the corners to help protect the ends of the crank too. I probably got about 4 layers of cardboard wrapped around the crank. I then took duck tape and taped the ends up to make sure they would break open. Then I coated the entire box in clear packing tape a few times. Over kill yes .. but I have to fear of the UPS or USPS monkeys dropping crank in transit, lol.

KTL · 10-31-2013, 02:45 PM

Nice! They're gonna be cursing you when they have to un-tape it! Better to overkill than underkill!!!!

tocobill · 10-31-2013, 02:52 PM

Yeah ... One slice of the knife and its open sesame, lol.

AlfonsoR · 10-31-2013, 08:38 PM

Thanks guys.

Toco, keep us posted on your build. Should be a beast!!