Yoke or Adapter Ring

[gjmascoli]

First engine drop, trying to decide whether to buy a 5-arm yoke or the adaptor ring. Pricing seems to be similar. Id really like to be able to mount the engine fully dressed and then:
- R&R blown air box
- install Carrera tensioners
- remove stock HX and install SSIs
- not remove the oil cooler or clutch

Which option allows me to this. I see a lot of threads where some of the yokes dont give enough clearance, whereas I should be able to fab the correct spacer for use with the adapter ring to enable all of this.

Advice?

[AlfonsoR]

The 5 arm yoke is supposed to allow for clutch assembly. I haven't done my first engine drop yet so I can't confirm. I bought the yoke because folks have recommended it over other methods they have tried, including the adapter.

[HawgRyder]

Which ever way you go...remember...when the engine is fully assembled...you will have about 300 pounds trying to reach the floor!
The P201 tool is what the factory and every good mech has used for years...it works.
I have seen people try all sorts of things to support engines...and the worst I have run accross is someone using bad hardware.
The pull on generic bolts can be your undoing.
Use grade 8 or better hardware every time.
Bob

[peppy]

I used the ring on my rebuild and could not get the flywheel on the engine. Of course I don't do this for a living so it was a minor inconvenience to take it off the stand and install the flywheel and clutch then put it back on the stand.

[Tom '74 911]

I have the P201 yoke and have used it w/a 2.7L engine & 3.6L engine. In both cases, the clutch & flywheel were accessible. You might have to remove an oil line or some of the surrounding sheetmetal to cleanly mount it, but it's a tried & true tool.

The ONLY downside I have found is that the P201 yolk may not fit exactly into your engine stand so that the holes for the "pin" that keeps the engine from rotating line up perfectly.

I have 2 stands, one that I built myself and one other that I bought. In the one I built, I drilled the holes in the stand so that they line up w/the holes on the yolk shaft - no issues. On the one I bought, if the yolk is fully inserted into the stand, the holes don't align, so I can't insert the pin to keep the engine from rotating. The yolk needs to be slightly out from flush for that to work...

Other than that, the P201 yolk tool is the gold standard I think.

[gjmascoli]

Thanks for the input guys

[911pcars]

One solution is remove the engine from the engine stand when you're ready to reinstall the drivetrain.

At that point, install the input shaft bearing, flywheel and clutch assembly, flywheel sensors, gearbox and starter.

Sherwood

[Bob Spindel]

Alternatively, you can actually use an inexpensive, conventional, four-arm engine stand, the kind you can get from Harbor Freight or Pep Boys for $60 or so, if you're willing to fashion four small "adapters" that accommodate the ridge on the engine case. I made them out of small pieces of aluminum. (See photos.) The four arms of the stand can be manipulated to line up with the bolt holes on the engine. In my case the stand required no modification, but it's possible some models will need a slight alteration, like elongating one of the slots in the arms' mounting plate. (Sorry for the poor quality of the engine stand photo. It's the only picture I've taken of an engine on the stand, and it was done a while ago with conventional film.)