911 3.2ltr fuel lines

[FLYONWALL9]

I wasn't quite sure which forum to post this in so I thought I would
try this one first. I have been trying to get in touch with BoxerGT in
order to get some fuel lines made up and haven't heard back from him.
I hope he is okay?

Anyway, does anyone else make fuel lines on the board? I don't really
care to use the factory ends. It appears that is where mine are leaking
anyway. Would just like some with straight ends vs having to worry
with someone getting the clocking of the bends correct. The one that
is truly leaking on mine currently is the one that is just under and to
the right of the throttle body. I know I should have replaced these
when I was doing my oil seals and such this past winter but budget
had me in a bind. Now I must.

Also, does anyone have any tips on the easiest way to go about it
while the engine is still in the car? I'm sure taking out the air filter
box is a must and will make it easier. But, what else?

Lastly, does anyone have a photo of the FPR that is on the passenger
side of the engine and what that vacuum line should connect to? I am
thinking I have it connected to the wrong place and that could be
giving me too much fuel? I did replace the oil soaked lines while the
engine was out.

Thanks in advance for your help and replies,
Scott

[porterdog]

Can't help with your questions other than to point out that the 911 forum gets a LOT more traffic than this one.

[gtc]

Quite a few pelicans have used Amazon Hose in Tampa, Florida.

[Jcslocum]

Scott,

You can essentially make you own at home. First you need the right barrier fuel injection hose. I can't recall it now but can find the spec for you. Next you need proper Oetiker clamps and tools to crimp them. Next you cut off the outer ferrule that is crimped on your hoses but be careful to not cut into the pipe part. A slice on both sides allows you to peel the old ferrule that has been crimped on, off of the pipe or nipple. You can then cut new sections of hose, slip on the Oetiker clamps then the pipe and crimp.

I have used these in this application successfully and have tested the crimps in water for leaks over 24 hours at 100 psi to satisfy my own concerns.

A regular hose house will probably use a ferrule that is too long and crimp it up to hight, this really crimps the ferrule onto the ridge on the pipe and can cause an early failure due to too much crimp pressure where it was not originally intended.

This has worked for me but you need to investigate and make sure it's good for you.

Just my .002

[faverymi]

I went to a hydraulic specialist.

They had dozers, excavators, cranes, skidsters parked outside.

Pulled in the old 911 and asked . Can you make this for me? And they did.

[burgermeister]

I used the same method Jon suggests. I even went so far as to use US sized FI line, as the metric stuff was difficult to source locally. Most of my connections are plain old fuel injection clamps, not the oetiker clamps, and those work fine too. However, they are bulky and you need to orient them carefully so they don't interfere with other stuff... the Oetiker clamps are really a better way to go.

[brighton911]

I too used the make it at home method. Cutting off the old hoses as Jon described and using high quality fuel injection hoses and FI styles clamps worked out 100%. And there is no compromise here, just open the hood of any non high pressure (CIS style) car and you will see hose and clamps done in the same manner. You can do it with the engine in but with the typical 3.2 intake leaks, this maybe a good time to pull the intake assembly and do the hoses and gaskets and maybe insulators too. My job has three seasons on it without a hint of trouble.

Dave

[sjf911]

I did the same with e85 compatible hose. The FI clamps can get in the way and do have relatively sharp edges so wire and hose routing has to accommodate that.

[FLYONWALL9]

Thanks for the replies guys. Len is a very busy fellow with building his new cabin.

I'm trying to find someone that either has some made up or can have them made
for me. Due to health conditions, I cant bend and contort like most of you guys so
the least amount parts needed to be removed in order to install the new lines is
what I am most looking for. I have seen some made that are VERY minimal with
few few joints. I wish I could find the link again, but one that I have seen just
had 3 lines and all were straight with no bends, best I recall and were braided
with AN fittings.

I must admit that I am pretty ignorant on the nomenclature for this subject so
most of the replies are very much over my head. I have Googled and learned a
great deal. I think from a budget stand point and health stand point it would
help greatly if I can find someone like Len that I can just pass along the funds
and be confident I would get exactly what I need to do the job and only have
to go into it once.

Thanks much for all the help and replies, hope you all have a blessed weekend
Scott

[bigel]

In the process of performing a top-end on my '87 and will likely replace all fuel lines during the process.

I like the idea of home made lines as I'm always on the side of self creation, especially when it saves me some $$ to put elsewhere in the car.

Wondering if any of those who have made and crimped their own fuel lines may be so kind as to post some photos of said lines.

Thanks in advance!

Steve

[brighton911]

Too bad I have my engine in now, hard to get any decent shots of the fuel lines. This is the T under the throttle body.

[Smoove1010]

Originally Posted by bigel

In the process of performing a top-end on my '87 and will likely replace all fuel lines during the process.

I like the idea of home made lines as I'm always on the side of self creation, especially when it saves me some $$ to put elsewhere in the car.

Wondering if any of those who have made and crimped their own fuel lines may be so kind as to post some photos of said lines.

Thanks in advance!

Steve

See this post in flyonwall's other thread, just make sure you use the 30R9 pressure hose.
87 Targa 3.2 clutch and engine questions

[BoxsterGT]

My apologies for not being around lately. Hope all this will change once I don't have to drive 4 hours R/T to NH & back.

Here's a FYI - A word of caution when having just any local hydraulic shop make up fuel or oil lines & hoses for you. Most do not have or use the proper Metric crimp dies and sleeves. They make something like this.........



The problem is that the hose is crushed at the bump on the end of the fitting intended to retain the hose, and this can result in a premature hose failure like this............



The factory Norma type hose clamps or the Oetiker hose clamps are the only ones that should be used if you cannot get crimped replacement hoses, and this method is still a temporary one compared to the original factory crimped ends that have lasted 30 +/- years at this point.

This is what the correct crimp fittings look like-



And here is a original 3.2 factory Main Tee "Re-Hosed" with new E-85 rated hose......



Hope this helps.

Happy to answer any questions you may have, but please do not PM me. Just go to my user name at the left and pick "send email".

Len

[Determined]

BoxterGT your mailbox is full, trying to send a PM.

[BoxsterGT]

Please see post above: .......please do not PM me. Go to my user name and pick send email.

Thank you.

Len

[Gemballa2006]

Do you make these to sell, or was teh above pic just an example?

[jsveb]

He makes the fuel lines, and I highly recommend using his service. His fuel lines are in my Carrera 3.0.

[BoxsterGT]

Here are the factory type Norma hose clamps.......



Our Host should have them. If not I Norma-ly keep them in stock.

Len at Autosportengineering dot com