The Complete Case Assembly Procedure Thread

[efhughes3]

OK, to go with the Complete Sealant Thread, The Complete Engine Sealant Thread... , and the recent comments on the importance of "rehearsing" this, I thought I'd do a step-by-step checklist for the steps involved, and the order I'll do them. What do you think?

Case Assembly Sequence

Final Prep:

Lube oil pump internals
Oil seals lubed, installed in case & pump
Lube layshaft bearings
Timing chains on shaft
Oil pump/layshaft lubed journals, installed
LH timing chain supported
Oil pump bolts
Mark order of thru-bolts
Torque wrench set at 25 ft-lbs, proper socket, box end wrench
Rear seal lubed and ready
Lube/Install nose bearing on crank
Washers, nuts (perimeter and thru bolts), o-rings handy
Lube main bearings
Install crank
Check backlash on Layshaft gear
1, 2 & 3 rods supported
1211 spread thin on #8 saddle RH and LH halves
1104 lay out bead and spread thin around LH case perimeter
574 rolled on bearing saddles
Dow 55 ready for o-rings

Assy:

Place LH case on RH side, tap lightly with mallet
Tap in rear main seal
Install & torque and lube o-rings (Dow 55), washers and nuts @ oil cooler 25 ft-lbs
Install & torque nut in LH timing chain housing 25 ft-lbs
Install nuts around perimeter
Install & torque and lube thru-bolts/o-rings (Dow 55) 25 ft-lbs
Check that cranks spins freely
Torque perimeter (2 reverse) and 3 flywheel housing nuts 18 ft-lbs
Sit back with several beers and ogle ,allow to dry overnight

[vntgspd]

How about first step under assembly - "Get a friend."?

It is SOOO much easier with an extra set of hands.

[efhughes3]

Originally Posted by vntgspd

How about first step under assembly - "Get a friend."?

It is SOOO much easier with an extra set of hands.

Understood, but a list of stuff is still handy.

[vntgspd]

Originally Posted by efhughes3

Understood, but a list of stuff is still handy.

Oh yeah. Don't get me wrong, your list is great. I intend to use it in about a month if all goes well.

[304065]

Ed, a few proposed revisions below
Verify dowel pin in place for number eight bearing
Preinstall number eight bearing and mark a line along the case with a sharpie so you can correctly reinstall on the pin
Lightly lube oil pump internals and loctite nuts
Oil seal in RIGHT case half
Install intermediate shaft bearings
Dry-fit oil pump, connecting shaft and intermediate shaft, check for free rotation
If no free rotation, reposition connecting shaft on different splines until it spins
Mark correct position of connecting shaft with sharpie
Remove oil pump, connecting shaft and intermediate shaft and lubricate bearings
Loop timing chains around intermediate shaft and dangle through chainbox hole
Install oil pump, connecting shaft and intermediate shaft
Lubricate main bearings with assembly lube
Install pulley seal in number eight bearing
Install o-ring on number eight bearing and lube with Dow Corning 111
Lubricate pulley end of crankshaft with assembly lube and install into number eight bearing
Apply 1211 to bottom side of number eight main bearing saddle, avoid oil hole
Install crankshaft in case
Install oil pump tabs and lock nuts 900 076 025 02 and torque to 25NM- do not bend tabs yet
Verify intermediate shaft backlash with dial indicator
Bend oil pump tabs
Install connecting rod and chain props P221 and P222
Install TWO oil pump seals 999 704 172 50
Preassemble case through-bolts with O-rings and DC 111, do not tear o-rings
Mark order of thru-bolts with lead pencil so it comes off easily
Set torque wrench to 35 NM

Now, a couple observations. First, you're doing it the factory way with the oil pump first vs. Wayne's method of crank first, it really depends on how many hands you have. Second, I recommend torquing the through-bolts first because you want to establish the bearing clearance right away, particularly if you are using 574 on the bearing webs.


1104 lay out bead and spread thin around LH case perimeter, avoid oil relief!
574 rolled on bearing webs on left half

Assy:

Place LH case on RH side, tap lightly with mallet
Install through bolts with nuts on LEFT case half (same as perimeter nuts)
Torque through bolts to 35NM (25.8 ft-lb)
Torque additional case studs (timing chain housing, case side) and nuts in oil cooler flange
RESET TORQUE WRENCH TO 25NM (18.4 ft-lb)
Install case perimeter washers
Install case perimeter nuts
Torque ALL case perimeter nuts incl. flywheel and reverse to 25NM
Check that crank spins freely


Well, I'm outta gas for now, double-check all that and make sure I didn't leave anything out!

[gigem75]

man, I came to the right place!! Thanks

[efhughes3]

Originally Posted by john_cramer

Ed, a few proposed revisions below
Verify dowel pin in place for number eight bearing
Preinstall number eight bearing and mark a line along the case with a sharpie so you can correctly reinstall on the pin
Lightly lube oil pump internals and loctite nuts
Oil seal in RIGHT case half
Install intermediate shaft bearings
Dry-fit oil pump, connecting shaft and intermediate shaft, check for free rotation
If no free rotation, reposition connecting shaft on different splines until it spins
Mark correct position of connecting shaft with sharpie
Remove oil pump, connecting shaft and intermediate shaft and lubricate bearings
Loop timing chains around intermediate shaft and dangle through chainbox hole
Install oil pump, connecting shaft and intermediate shaft
Lubricate main bearings with assembly lube
Install pulley seal in number eight bearing
Install o-ring on number eight bearing and lube with Dow Corning 111
Lubricate pulley end of crankshaft with assembly lube and install into number eight bearing
Apply 1211 to bottom side of number eight main bearing saddle, avoid oil hole
Install crankshaft in case
Install oil pump tabs and lock nuts 900 076 025 02 and torque to 25NM- do not bend tabs yet
Verify intermediate shaft backlash with dial indicator
Bend oil pump tabs
Install connecting rod and chain props P221 and P222
Install TWO oil pump seals 999 704 172 50
Preassemble case through-bolts with O-rings and DC 111, do not tear o-rings
Mark order of thru-bolts with lead pencil so it comes off easily
Set torque wrench to 35 NM

Now, a couple observations. First, you're doing it the factory way with the oil pump first vs. Wayne's method of crank first, it really depends on how many hands you have. Second, I recommend torquing the through-bolts first because you want to establish the bearing clearance right away, particularly if you are using 574 on the bearing webs.


1104 lay out bead and spread thin around LH case perimeter, avoid oil relief!
574 rolled on bearing webs on left half

Assy:

Place LH case on RH side, tap lightly with mallet
Install through bolts with nuts on LEFT case half (same as perimeter nuts)
Torque through bolts to 35NM (25.8 ft-lb)
Torque additional case studs (timing chain housing, case side) and nuts in oil cooler flange
RESET TORQUE WRENCH TO 25NM (18.4 ft-lb)
Install case perimeter washers
Install case perimeter nuts
Torque ALL case perimeter nuts incl. flywheel and reverse to 25NM
Check that crank spins freely


Well, I'm outta gas for now, double-check all that and make sure I didn't leave anything out!

John: I guess I should've been more specific. I wrote this last night and was basing what I still needed to do with the physical mating. I'd already pre-marked the #8, test fit, etc. I also had the torqueing in the same order as you, in that I had the thru-bolts done first. I only had "install" perimeter nuts early on, I have them to be torqued to the end. Also, I had down "timing chains on shaft" which inferred the details of feeding them in the chainbox hole, etc.

I was trying to do a simple "last minute" checklist here. I guess that's why others have written entire books, it is just too many things to do on one simple list?

[304065]

Different strokes for different folks-- I prefer a very detailed checklist so I don't have to go to four different sources (wayne, FWM, Little White Book, Parts Manual) to have all the information at hand.

That said I DID have an abbreviated pre-landing checklist on the door of my Citabria that said "Mix air trim pump lights brakes"-- to some, a checklist is ONLY those items you cannot forget before commiting, to others, it's a "do list" or flow pattern.

A true "Check list" would be-- oil pump seals, timing chains, verify backlash, torque oil pump nuts and set lock tabs, preassmble throughbolts, set torque wrench, mark tightening order, avoid oil relief and check that the crank spins. Not specific instructions but only those things you absolutely must verify before moving on.

[efhughes3]

I guess that with my list, assuming I've hit all the hot spots, one could copy & paste, and make whatever detailed notes they need for each one.

I'm thinking here how I do when I make a PowerPoint presentation; I know what I need to say, I use the program for bullet points to make sure I hit each necessary item in the proper order.

[ertech]

How do you lube the oil pump?
Thanks

[Gordo2]

May have been there but didn't see it..

How about prep through bolts? You can get them set with washers and rings lubed and ready to insert / install.

Gordo

[Flat6pac]

Dont forget to put the separator tins in before the oil return tubes and heads.
Bruce