Muffler choice and starting my engine to do list

[Carbster]

Forgive the noobie boobie which oil question.

I have a 1989 stock Carerra with lots O miles maybe >200k? I know little about the cars history so Im assuming full valve job, guides, rod bolts, studs, adding in port and polish etc. Bearings clutch polish cam maybe?
I have picked up SSis second hand and need to sort the muffler. I dont want droning if possible, best value for buck, sound and hp maybe a 2-1 M&K or Dansk? I dont have Monty Money for his kit, its a tough bit of kit but outta my budget with too many bi,es to feed in the garage.

This cars intention, pure fun on the street mainly, some track days, DE? a few weekend trips with the Missus and me in the spring and fall. I plan on a serious diet of removing everything heavy and minimal creature comforts, delete ac, heavy bumpers front and rear etc etc.

Engine wise I want to stay smart with durability and get all the free hp possible, Port and polish on heads is a given, I dont want to change displacement at this point, extrude horn intake maybe? What cam grind would benefit me with the ssi's and a 2-1? I want to have RD springs make up the valve springs and Ti valve goodies unless you all have a better company and solution.

I want the engine as bullet proof and over rev durable (girlfriend or me missing a shift, over revving). I bent a few valves in my brothers 914-6 a few years ago missing a shift! I dont want to relive that or my gal to have to go through breaking my car at the track, **** happens but spending a little extra time and money to protect the engine is just smart.

I will pull and perform the work at my friends shop who is a Porsche mechanic but I hate going and dumping all the work on him, I want to gather as much information and experience from others rather than go into this rather blind. I assume around a 8k budget and have the standard list of Pcar books. All tools needed I will have access to.

[pete3799]

Can't help with most of your questions but I just put a set of SSI's and a Dansk sport 2 in 1 out on my 3.0 and did a 1000 mile round trip with it. The sound is very pleasant not too loud but not a quiet muffler either. No drone at any RPM. Raspy when you get over 4K. Had my wife with me so I never hit red line.
The stock Dansk was going to be my first choice ( hey....i'm old) but i'm happy with the sport.

[Reiver]

M&K is lighter but louder. Dansk heavier but quiet unless you put your foot in it.
M&K will raise your torque sweet spot higher than the Dansk will due to more of a free flowing build (ergo the loudness too).

[Carbster]

Keeping peak torque lower is important to me. Sounds like the Dansk is what the Dr. ordered. I heard the Monty was the ticket but not at 1300 +.... Not for this car and my application.

[TimT]

Keeping peak torque lower is important to me.

What??

I don't think I have ever heard of anyone wanting to reduce torque!!

[Carbster]

Keeping peak torque AT A LOWER RPM! No one wants to loose torque well maybe for traction control but hey that's what a clutch pedal is for

[kach22i]

Often track cars (momentum racers) will give up low end torque (such as it is) in exchange for top end HP.

I think he's just saying he wants a drivable street car and is not trying to impress anyone with dyno results or red line power.

[nickyclyde]

Assuming you are not doing the work yourself , I would ,after selecting a shop to do the work , describe to them what you are wanting to achieve ,your budget restrictions and then see what's worked for them in the past. As for your muffler ,many people on this forum ,with way more experience than I will steer you in the right direction. I just went with Rarly8 and Brian was a pleasure to work with ,the quality of his products is very good.

[JJ 911SC]

Originally Posted by Reiver

M&K is lighter but louder. Dansk heavier but quiet unless you put your foot in it.
M&K will raise your torque sweet spot higher than the Dansk will due to more of a free flowing build (ergo the loudness too).

+1, I replace (at the request of the better half) the M&K 2/2 with the Dansk Sport 2/2 on SSIs.

Sound good with less drone, but I'm keeping my M&K

The M&K might have drive me nuts in a coupe but it was sounded great with the top down, especially a 6000 rpm under an overpass

[AlfonsoR]

My seasoned noob POV... seasoned noob because I have not personally rebuilt my engine yet, but over the years of hanging out i have soaked up a few comments from people that have.

Wait to get your engine apart, then start your engine to-do list. The cold hard facts (dimensional inspection data) might sway you to do things one way or another.

From the few years I have been hanging out here, my impression is that unless you are going to do ITB induction, that little things such as extrude hone are not worth it. I would say, especially with the budget you are thinking, save your money, focus on lightning the car instead. When you're ready to go ITB, then go full bore (pun intended). Visit 911 Chips website to get some idea on dyno tests with different mods. To me, the cost to HP benefit is low. You pay a lot but don't seem to get very much in return. 911Chips - Porsche Dyno Runs


Muffler, besides the input from the fine folks here, talk to Steve W. He has definite recommendations based on building many engines. In the end, it boils down to personal preference in regards to sound, but Steve can also tell you which combos make the most HP and which tend to be restrictive.

In terms of cylinder head rebuilds, a bunch of people can do these, including R&D, but i get the impression from reading this board that the best is Xtreme Cylinder heads in FL Xtreme Cylinder Heads And Castings
At least talk to them, get them to quote you the job and let them tell you about some of the details they go through to ensure good quality. My second choice would be Steve W. I have seen some of his port work and it looks really nice. I don't think I have seen any flow numbers though.