I'm about to split the 2.7L case

[The Watson]

Some have screamed "DONT do it" but the crankshaft needs good force to turn and the engine has an unknown history. On the other hand, parts seem to be good and clean and lubricated so far and inserts were installed on head studs during a supposed rebuild about 5000 mikes before the car went into 20 yr storage. I need practical advice ASAP please!

[tocobill]

Silly question but are the plugs in it when you "need good force to turn" or out? 2.7 mag 7r case? Expect to line bore it if you split it and its a mag case. Its nice to have a known engine after all the work. Im sure others will chime in.

[The Watson]

The plugs and heads and pistons and cylinders are all off. The crank take about 25 ft lbs to turn but it stops dead like it is hitting something after about 1/8 turn - estimate. I can't see a restriction. Maybe the chain is binding but u can't see that.

[Chain_rxn]

i am no expert [total noob, actually], but I split my 7R case last week. I had the pistons and heads off too. my crank would spin freely but then bind hard. for me, it was a rod that was binding, at the interface of the crankshaft [not the piston end binding on the case].

just triple check that you have removed every bolt before you start splitting the case. I found one extra on my last check that I had missed. I missed 2 bolts on a timing chain cover [if that's what that piece is called?], and cracked it in half beating it off.

[911pcars]

Make sure no part of the engine stand interferes with free rotation of the crank, flywheel, clutch assy.

The following procedure gradually removes/minimizes potential obstructions. Check crank rotation after each operation. If you're going to split the case anyway, this is the same procedure.

Place a reference mark on the crank pulley to ID the point of interference.

Remove the valve and chain box covers and visually inspect the moving parts as you rotate the crank.

Back off the valve adjustment screws on all the rockers, then recheck.

With all valves closed and/or only partially open (rocker adj. loosened),

Remove all rocker arms (closes all valves).

Remove timing chain, sprockets and cams.

Remove cam housings and cylinder heads. Install nuts to restrain cylinders while checking crank rotation.

Remove one cylinder bank, then recheck
Remove pistons from rods. Check con rod play

Remove the opp. cylinder bank, then recheck
Remove pistons from rods. Check con rod play

Remove connecting rods one at a time.

At this point, the only rotating parts remaining are the crankshaft, intermediate shaft and oil pump, and you will have hopefully discovered the obstruction (broken engine part, loose part floating in engine, etc.). If not, split the case and inspect.

Hope this helps.
Sherwood

[tocobill]

Get some rubberbands to center the rods in the bore so to keep the rods from hitting and someone to hold the chains out so they dont bind ie not slack. sounds like a rod is hitting the oil pump etc. If its neither one of these I cant think of anything else that would cause binding if the engine is in order.

[RedCoupe]

Before you split the case, how about removing all of the rods? It'll give you a chance to check all of the rod bearings to make sure sure that there's no mischief going on there that could cause binding and also the condition of the rod bearings will give a good clue as to the condition of the mains. Once the rods are all removed, them see how it spins.

[The Watson]

Went ahead with the split -first time in there so might as well learn. The blockage was just the rods as a couple of you mention. However the #8 bearing was a little stiff, so I'm glad I went in. Overall however very good condition in there considering how long it sat outside. No water or crud or corrosion - just lubricated goodness!

Chain - good to hear of another in the same boat. Best of luck on yours.

[afterburn 549]

line bore.
Make sure you have the bearings B4 you do this, as there are becoming scarce