Great thread sub'ed.

I will be doing the same thing my 3.2 (40k miles) as a tinker project. Not sure if I want to go 3.4 twin yet...def don't need to split the case, plus it is not leaking so that is a bonus.

This is a joke, right? ;)

One can dream in Technicolor.

From the day I got the car, I've been looking for a SOK kit to add a few HPs. Finally got my hands on a kit and waiting for the winter to put it on.

For what it's worth, In my opinion, I would suggest splitting the case when going this far with a motor this old (25+ years old). The intermediate shaft bearings are probably showing some wear at least. I also strongly suggest dealing with the connecting rod bolts and head studs on these engines before they give up. In reality, it's not that much more money, and you can clean out the 25+ years of sludge inside the case.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1404959660.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1404959787.jpg

That sounds really cool. But I wouldn't call putting a supercharger on keeping your engine "naturally aspirated." That's why I thought your 375 HP quest from a NA 3.2 motor was a bit too hopeful.

Not my quest... but it would be a bit too hopeful.

[QUOTE=johnman001;8156469]For what it's worth, In my opinion, I would suggest splitting the case when going this far with a motor this old (25+ years old). The intermediate shaft bearings are probably showing some wear at least. I also strongly suggest dealing with the connecting rod bolts and head studs on these engines before they give up. In reality, it's not that much more money, and you can clean out the 25+ years of sludge inside the case.

+1 on all this. The bottom end is not that much more work. As a minimum I would upgrade the rod bolts, head studs and put in racing valve springs. It will get your redline to 7000 rpm plus. Save your engine in a missed shift. Ask me how I know...

Yes, 375Hp naturally aspirated is my goal, and a pretty realistic one too, on the original Carrera Engine. But I didn't say 3.2L... LOL! Anything below 350Hp will be disapointing, and anything above 375Hp wil be a nice bonus.

That is correct... So what engine have you got in there?

I'm putting in some exotic bits and pieces based on the original engine. I have a highly modified car, but still matching numbers. On the outside it looks very close to original. But under the skin...

Any opinions on extrude hone for the inlet? Soom swear by thems other think its a waste on a street car. I think it costs about $600 on a 3.2 inlet. Not sure if there is a measurable HP increase.

I did check out the process and what was entailed in it when I was planning the route I would following in my rebuild. The idea of opening up the ports was very appealing to me at first, but the more I looked into the more I realized that it wasn't for me. The biggest determining factor was that I just had a real hard time justifying the $700 cost to the bhp gain didn't equal out. If I had unlimited resources then absolutely I would do it in a heartbeat. But I don't so I have to draw the line somewhere, which is also why I'm doing most of the rebuild myself.
I've also given splitting the cases a considerable more amount of thought and I'm leaning against it. I wasn't having any abnormal internal engine noise, I didn't have anything weird floating in the oil and so far with the disassembly I haven't run into anything that causes me to think there would be a problem. I will know more this weekend as my plan is to have the came towers and heads off so they can be sent to the machine shop. Once I get go that point and I see something different, then I'll re-evaluate.

Ignition..........
 

I would recommend using an aftermarket direct fire twin plug ignition system on your engine. There are several good reasons to do so: 1) eliminates distributor, cap, rotor, etc., 2) timing is infinitely adjustable, 3) total advance is reduced from around 36 degrees to around 24-25 degrees (less negative work!) and 4) depending on your car's model year, other ignition components eliminated as well. I used an Electromotive XDi twin plug system on my 3.3SS engine that I built last year. Other than finding a place to mount the coils, everything else about the install was easy. The cost was around $1300 for the new system with only minor costs added for relays, etc. I mounted the control box vertically behind the passenger seat to make it easy to adjust between drives. When you consider the cost of a 12 plug dizzy and the future costs of caps and rotors (which may or may not be available several years down the road), the direct fire system makes a lot of sense.

This is as far as I've gotten so far:

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/14/e5ybereg.jpg

And my goal for this weekend was to have the heads off so I would be able to drive up and meet with Bob at Anchor Atlantic to leave the heads with him, but I'm a little confused. I'm using both Wayne's book and the Bentley manual as references in conjunction with one another. At this point the Bentley guide is going to the heads and is saying to put the crank at TDC. Wayne's book is now saying to remove the clutch.
I'm confused on where TDC can be found because my engine's pulley doesn't have the two notches close together. So here's where the pulley is located now. It appears to have 120degrees between pulleys all the way around

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/14/nuja2u4e.jpg

These are what I believe to be TDC marks which are now located on the right side of the engine.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/14/ahe9y8es.jpg

Can anyone confirm or deny my suspicions as to where the TDC marks are on my pulley and if my suspicions are correct, which mark is it, the top of bottom mark I should have lined up with the mark on the case?

The TDC mark is at the button of your fan shroud.

Your pulley probably got 4 marks. 3 at 120 degrees apart.

The first one of the two close together is what I call "getting close to TDC" when doing a valve adjustment. It's a few degrees before TDC.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1405275749.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1405275763.jpg

Even easier is to take the distributer cover off and line the "pointer" with the pick-up and #1 is at TDC.

I got a photo somewhere...

I think I figured it out.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/14/5upyreru.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/14/nu9agymy.jpg

It's also making sense about why the rocker arms are loosened before taking the timing chain off the cam sprocket.

It's not that important for disassemble.

I understand, but if I take it apart a certain way then I'm certain to put it back together a certain way. Then ideally, it will start and run when it's back together.

I have got to find someone here in the Washington DC area that I can go to for ultrasonic cleaning. My little makeshift parts bin does a good of cleaning the oil, grime & dirt but it's alot of work. I must have scrubbed for a couple of hours today and I feel like the fan housing and front cam covers still are not clean eventhough I don't get any grease on my hands when I handle them now.