Will it fit the CV axle? I hate cleaning CVs

I doubt the full length of the axle, but one end laid in at an angle and it would be good. Wipe out most of the gunk and blast it in there for 30 min you would be good to go.

There are a few diy articles online to build your own. Is anyone here knowledgeable enough to say if I could actually damage a part by using an incorrect frequency? (Or something else I do not know about)

How hot do you set the temp ?

and do you blow out the loosened junk that gets in the oil passages etc

I have been using 140F as it is what I read somewhere on the interwebs, must be right :-) Temp is important because things clean easier with some temp in the mix, especially if you are using mostly water. You need the atoms moving....

I use Brake Kleen to blow out the oil galleries and then compressed air. The cam towers were my first part with oil galleries and they went in with a fresh mix of water to avoid the gunk. Most of the junk seems to settle pretty quick to the bottom. there is no agitation or circulation in the tank. just the bubbles that are bursting at the surface.

A video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5Ec7dCZSto

I'm not an expert just a user. Do your own research!!!

Thanks for the pointer to an excellent looking ultrasonic cleaner!

I would suggest as a precaution to pull the aluminum plugs from the ends of the cam housing spray bar bores. No need to remove the spray bar itself. Just remove the plugs and replace with new to ensure nothing gets trapped at the "dead ends."

Someone, maybe Spenny, aluded to the days of life saved by the chemicals i/ we all use for our hobby and maybe work. Ageing is going to be bad enough without the extra damage from toxins. That line of reasoning sure makes $375 seem like a total steal, even before realizing you'd never have to do the old mineral spirits / Safety Kleen scrub again. John in CT.

...meant to say, days of life that could be saved, or improved, by NOT using the chemicals we employ in our garages....

Looks like a tremendous time saver. I just finished a 3.0 rebuild and this would have been very helpful!

It's still working like a dream and I'm continuing to clean parts...

Here is the fan done last night. #0 minutes and she was clean as a whistle!!

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ps276d7938.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...pse23909f5.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ps509e5279.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psa560b7b8.jpg

I have a pressure plate that was completely caked in decades of oily clutch disc material. I was able to dig long worms of oily solids out of it.

It barely fits in the 5 gallon model, laying horizontally. I gather that this is the kind of part that requires that you clean it for awhile, then flip it over to let the sludge drain out of the other side during a second bath.

I'm using Meyer's dish soap and water, but I can't recommend this combination as I don't think it has enough grease cutting power.

So far, I'm pretty pleased. I think the cleaner will work much better on simpler components such as brake calipers, hubs, valve covers, bearings, etc.

For that kind of grease the best bet is water, dawn and some simple green. You need to really break down the grease.

The UT gets right into small holes (so I have read) and that is one main Bennie of the tech but not if the hole is plugged with grease. I can see that taking quite a bit longer

Arrived today, very nice unit.
I dropped a '76 912 engine harness in it already. :)
Can't wait to see the results.
Edit: harness came out very clean. Especially the connectors. :)

My old tiny cleaner is on the left...


http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...d644826a17.jpg

I'm partial to using citrus solvents (diluted), as they won't attack cad plating or aluminum finishes in the same way that caustic degreasers do.

Can you recommend an effective citrus solvent that won't remove the plating?

Thanks,

Soy degreasers are really good too and they aren't as smelly/strong like some of the other favorites- Simple Green or Oil Eater. I've been really pleased with Franmar's Emerge.

Emerge *Concentrate* [DF] - $10.95 : Franmar Chemical Inc.

However, DO NOT use it on aluminum parts. Your parts will grow a white fuzz if you soak them in it for extended period of time like overnight. If I clean aluminum parts with Emerge I rinse them in a soapy water solution (Dawn dishwashing detergent is fantastic) afterwards to neutralize the soy cleaner.

They also make parts washing solutions but i've not tried them yet.

PARTS WASHERS : Franmar Chemical Inc.

I have one of the ultrasonic cleaners coming my way as well- shipped today. Thanks again for the link to a nice price on a great looking medium size ultrasonic cleaner.

I don't know any name brand citrus degreasers, as I use one that my parents make (they own a small janitorial supply business).
But as far as I know, pretty much all citrus based degreasers use the solvent d-limonene, an extract of orange peels.
You do need to watch out with delicate plastic, rubber, or painted parts when using it.

silly question, but what do you do with the liquid afterwards? do you need to clean the cleaner at some point?

Dennis, you are dropping the full harness in??? How are you getting it dry or you don't care, as you are building a new one and just don't want to handle the filthy old one...

As for cleaning, I have changed out the fluid one time. It has a nice low drain so the draining part is quite easy and not messy. Drained into a Spackle bucket, I let it settle and separate. Then pulled off the oily stuff on top and took it to recycling. The rest is still in the bucket waiting for a good idea. It appears to be water and dirty sludge but I'm not 100% certain.

Hi Jon,
You guessed it, I don't care as I am just using them as a pattern. :)