I was told and trained dry.

I bet folks are using 50w synthetic on the rings causing failure to seat....

New rings on order. Starting over with a clean sheet.

How many miles did you have on the rings?

900 miles.

Which new rings did you decide to buy?

Good luck with it this time!!

Peter in Au.

I am going to use Goetze again.

I'll know in a month if I am successful.

On A side not , my car is a 930 just did a full rebuilt with US CHROME plated cylinders and new goetze ring . I get a puff of smoke at startup , warm or cold . I only have 600 mi on the engine
I installed TurboCrafts spring and ball under the oil pressure sensor
Thanks

My suggestion would NOT be to use those again, based on my experience. I would be using Total Seals made specifically for Nikasil cylinders (Millenium's methods).

US Chrome's Nikasils can be used successfully with Goetze rings.

Steve

Thank you. I'll take a look at them.

The trick gapless 2nd ring, set number T1980B, is what total seal told me was the right choice.

Anyone want a set of new Goetze rings?

EBS Racing had mine made at TotalSeal for about $250 for 98mm.

Good man.

Oil them lightly at installation and go out there and seat them properly!! :)

FWIW, I installed JE rings on Omega pistons, then ran the engine in on an engine dyno using Millers competition mineral running-in oil.

Of course, we had the luxury of running the engine in a completely controlled and monitored fashion....ran with this oil for the first 2 days of mapping (not full-load though), then drained and switched to Joe Gibbs per LN's recommendation (I'm also running their 98mm Nickies)

I assume the rig gap should be set to Porsche specs which is about half of what is typically recommended.

I may be in the minority but that type of ring wear would have me inspecting the integrity of the bore. Looks for a taper... tighter at the bottom. If the cylinders were bored in a hurry then perhaps they were machined hot. A good machinist will wait to allow the cylinder to cool during the machine process to keep things even and account for thermal expansion.

A good thought on the taper.

I just took a new top ring and checked the end gap at both the top and bottom of the stroke.

With a feeler gage they both measured at 0.015-0.016". 0.015" went in with little effort. 0.016" felt like it was dragging on the gap. Both ends felt the same.

This would lead me to conclude the bore is not tapered. But it might be a little worn. As new out of the box top ring is at the high end manual specification. (0.008-0.016") for my 82 SC.

To test that I placed the top ring 15mm from the bottom of the cylinder. This is outside the running range for the rings. The end gap measured 0.015". 0.016" would not go in all the way. Assuming a full 0.001" gap difference, and dividing by PI nets <0.0003" of diametrical wear in the running zone. Which is consistent with seeing the cross hatch.

I believe the cylinders are ok.

Anyone used the "Quickseat" assembly paste from Total Seal?

They recommend it's use for better startup seating.

Anyone know if it's ok on Nikasil?

I sent Total Seal an email asking the question. Wasn't sure if anyone here had tried it.

Looks interesting. Probably give it a go.

Btw, the top ring, in the picture, with 900 miles now has an end gap of 0.016-0.017". My records say it was 0.014".

So the polishing represents ~0.002" gap increase.

FWIW, just dug up the invoice for when I had my Alusil cylinders of my 82SC Nikasil plated by EBS they supplied the rings for my Alusil pistons (yes, I'm the guy running the original 154k mile Alusil pistons in the Nikasil plated bores) Goetze part No. 930 103 986 00 piston ring set STD 95x1.5x1.75x3.5 I get a good puff of smoke on cold start up after the car sits for several days/week but no smoke afterwards and have used probably less than a quart of BP 20/50 in 3,000 miles.

I asked about that stuff too and stormcrow kinda poo-pooed it. :p

I actually have a little container of this stuff I was going to give a try. It was only $25 and i'll gladly donate it to your cause. If you want to give it a try, shoot me your address and i'll send it your way.

I would doublecheck/replace the valveguides. I know you said it wasn't the heads, but that was my issue. Good luck!

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