3.0 to 3.2ss questions
 

I'm in the process of building my 3.2ss and have a couple of questions:

1. Wayne's book says no head gaskets, but that doesn't seem right. With 98mm cylinders, which head gaskets should I use (assuming I should)?

2. Should I torque heads then cam towers or cam towers then heads?

3. What is the best approach for removing sealing residue from cam tower (tower to head)?

4. Am I the only one who hates the piston pin wire locks?

Thanks all!

No head gaskets, that's why EBS wants Carrera cylinders. SC cylinders runs out of wall by the time your head gaskets ridge is almost at 98 mm.
My preference is lay the 3 heads on the table, spray all sealing surfaces with carb cleaner, blow dry.
574 on the cam tower, place tower on the heads, bolt up. Install cam and rockers, adjust rockers by turning cam bevel to relationship to the crank. Reminder, cam turns CCW in the running engine.
Do next set
When installing I back crank about 40 degrees from Z1 to pull all Pistons down inside. Have the cam bevel cut up.
Torque heads to Carrera specs
The total answer to the circlips is the Stompski racing installers. You only need 22 and 23 for the 911, 22 for the SS.

Bruce

Pics
 

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1444049837.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1444049956.jpg

Thanks, Bruce. I noticed that Pelican sells head gaskets for a 3.0. What gives?

The 3.0 uses head gaskets and 25 ft# of torque. The Carrera uses a taper cylinder seal surface so the torque is 15# torque then retorque and 90 degree swing.
That's why you needed the Carrera cylinders because they can open the cylinder and not loose the sealing surface.
Bruce

do you use sc heads or carerra heads when making a 3.2 ss. from a sc. 3.0 ?

You use heads to match the injection. Carrera heads are ported too large for CIS so you have to find insulators that match the injection to cover the Carrera head ports.
Bruce

These are a perfect fit, but which ones are they?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1444174713.jpg

Cross reference the K1826c. That will tell you what the head casting started as
I ll look to see if I still have the reference sheet here.
Bruce

Tom Butler here on Pelican has collected part number data over the years and he posted this head cross reference. Unfortunately your casting number and K number don't appear in his list.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1444336375.jpg

But based on the date of your heads (5-82) it would appear they are small port SC heads (1980-83)

Here's a picture of the SC cylinders (with ring gaskets inserted) and you can see how thin the cylinder wall is after they've been bored to 98mm


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1444336512.jpg

edit...... I take that back. the chart indicates yours are 80-83 heads. K numbers is on the chart but not the casting

Short stroke engine build
 

When I built my 3.3SS engine, I used Carrera heads and an early CIS air box with the 39mm runners. I had to open up the ends of the runners by 3mm to match the intake ports. I used a set of the Carrera intake spacers with the injector notches closed up with JB Weld. Along with the early SC airbox, I used the CIS hardware from a 1980 SC. I backdated the CIS layout to mimic that of a 1973.5 system. I also added a contact switch that will activate the cold start valve to richen the mixture at full throttle. Sounds really Rube Goldbergish, but it works quite well. Starts easily, makes good bottom and mid range torque and pulls strong to the ignition cutout at 7500 rpms. Speaking of ignition, I used the Electromotive XDi system to fire twin plugs per cylinder. Good luck with your build and don't be afraid to try something different!

Got the cam towers and cams installed.

My sc heads were ported and polished to 40/38, so they are twin plug Carrera spec. With the DC80 cams and PMO carbs I'm hoping for big numbers.

Hurry up and get that thing built and installed in the 904 already. I need an excuse to come down and drive it.

You are second in line, only to me!

How easy should the cams be to turn by hand? They went right in when I installed them. I can turn them with the sprocket flange installed (the smaller flange that fits over the woodruff key), but it takes a little effort.

You have the 4 bearing, needs oil but there is resistance.. Use the bolt on the end to turn with.
Wait til you have rockers in place. I just put together heavier springs in a set of heads. Machinist said they were 40# heavier..noticeable difference on how I load up the sub assembly
Bruce

Did you use assembly lube or oil on the cam journals? assembly lube usually has a decent amount of viscosity drag. Should be able to turn but won't spin free.

Assembly lube. They are exactly the same on both sides. Went right in, but tough to turn. I'm going to shoot some oil in the spray bars and see if that makes a difference.

Made a small difference, but I must be an idiot.

I'm trying to time the cams and get to the point where I pull the pin and rotate the cam to hit the correct overlap. Easy, right? No. I have the newer style cams with the bolt and heavy washer. I need to turn the cam CCW. There is nothing to grab on to. How do I turn the cam while keeping the sprocket in place (I have the tool that holds the sprocket)? Thanks.

Never mind, I just figured it out. Actually easier than the old version. Now I just need the spec...

I sent you a PM
Bruce