3.0 SC engine rebuild

Luke M · 08-22-2015, 06:09 PM

Hi guys,

I'm in the process of rebuilding a 1983 3.0 SC engine. I took it all down after finding several broken head studs. I didn't have a real good history on the engine when I bought it so down to the crank it went. I got all but one stud out that had broken off flush with the case. I tried to weld a nut on the broken stud but it wouldn't move. I had to send the case out to a local machine shop to remove that last stud. Per the shop owner it wasn't a fun job to do. While they did the case work they also polished and checked the specs on the crank. I got all my parts back and started to prep for the assembling and came across a not so good looking thing within the case ( see pic ). It looks like the case is missing some material in the oil t-stat tube. Can anyone tell me if this is ok or should something be done prior to assembly. I recall seeing something like this in a past thread but can't recall what the fix was.

TIA,

E Sully · E Sully's Garage

The thin casting was common. The fix was JB Weld on the outside of the case.
Case imperfection - leave alone or JB Weld?

Luke M · 08-22-2015, 06:53 PM

Hi Ed ,

Thanks for the link. So just leave the inside alone and jb weld the outer portion only.
I'll clean the case up and give it a shot.

Thanks again,

Flat6pac · 08-23-2015, 03:27 AM

All the tubes show like that inside

Luke M · 08-23-2015, 04:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

All the tubes show like that inside

Hi Bruce,

I was waiting for you to reply. I figured you would know seeing that you've been into may of these 3.0's. I'll check the outer portion of the case and jb weld it if it needs it. This is a later 3.0 case w/o the strainer cover. Is there any other issues that you are aware of that I need to address before closing it up?

TIA,

Luke

Flat6pac · 08-23-2015, 12:31 PM

At some point the factory addresses the leak on the outside but as Ed says, JB weld the outside portion under #6 and inside behind the oil cooler. I have a small wire brush to clean the metal then apply the JB
Bruce

Luke M · 08-29-2015, 06:20 AM

I got the case all cleaned up and JB weld applied to the areas that needed it. I had the machine shop clean the case and it came out looking pretty good. I still gave it a once over before the assembly started. I'm glad that I did as I found a large piece of aluminum stuck in one of the oil pump feed holes. It was stuck in there pretty good but it finally came out. It goes to show to always inspect and clean even after it was done by someone else.

Dpmulvan · 08-29-2015, 07:33 AM

Hey like what part of NY are you from? Good luck with your build

Luke M · 08-29-2015, 07:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dpmulvan

Hey like what part of NY are you from? Good luck with your build

Rochester area. I'm sure you know where that is...

Dpmulvan · 08-29-2015, 08:10 AM

Very familiar with Rochester I'm just down the road in Syracuse.

Luke M · 09-01-2015, 09:26 AM

I got the rods mounted to the crank, oil pump/shaft installed into the case.
Now to get a few free hours and I can close it up.

Thanks to Bruce (flat6pac) and Henry for some technical help.

Luke M · 09-05-2015, 10:04 AM

All sealed up.. Now it's a waiting game for the rest of the parts to come in.

vascott01 · 09-05-2015, 02:17 PM

Cheers for taking this project on.. I remember that day...It was a big moment for me...and now this coming friday I will fire mine up after a complete build...I think the hardest most tedious part was timing the cams...Other than that take your time and marvel at your work...

Luke M · 06:51 AM

I got the head studs installed and set to 135 mm . They are all steel studs with some type of coating on them. Temporarily dropped the dizzy in as well.

Flat6pac · 09-06-2015, 02:16 AM

It's too soon to install distributor because you need to work and dist. Will be in the way.
Bruce

Luke M · 03:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

It's too soon to install distributor because you need to work and dist. Will be in the way.
Bruce

Hi Bruce,

I just put the dizzy in temporarily. More so to block any open holes until I get the rest of the parts in. I have two kids running around and want to keep any foreign objects out that they may think would be cool to drop in there. I have the engine bagged currently but you never know what could happen if you step away for a second.

speedo · speedo's Garage

Looks good Luke! That going in the teener?

Speedo

Luke M · 09-07-2015, 07:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by speedo

Looks good Luke! That going in the teener?

Speedo

Hi Lars,

Yes, this is going into my brothers 914-6 conversion.
We just looked over the chassis a few days ago.
It needs at least a good full 4 to 5 days of welding/fab work left.
Basically decided to get the car blasted then finish the remainder of the work.

This engine is getting some JE pistons with some reconditioned Nikasil cylinders.
Need to send the heads out to be redone and cams reground.

Luke M · 12-29-2015, 06:03 AM

Finally got the reconditioned cylinders back and started to get the pistons into them.
I got to the last cylinder and found a pit in the Nikasil. I was told by the Co. that redid them that it's ok to run. I feel that the cylinder walls should be free of pits/defects.
What do you guys think send it back or run it?

jf911 · 12-31-2015, 03:44 AM

hi guys I'm also in Syracuse doing a really solid 73rsr clone from a 73,just starting the 3.0 rebuild and would like to get on board with some of you for conversation, support, and your idea"s lets chat john@autocraftauburn.com thanks John, p.s. looks like your doing a great job on your motor