Time has come!

[millarg]

Evening all,

78SC, original 120K mile 3.0L engine and trans with Bitz Racing EFI, MSD 6AL ignition, 3.2 intake manifold, oil fed chain tensioners, cat bypass

AND numerous broken (5+) "Raceware" head studs - engine rebuild (and likely broken studs) occurred prior to other "upgrades" - all (not rebuild) have done - which gives indication of my capabilities!

Problem became apparent a year ago, car has been unused since, starts, runs, leaks oil like a bandit!

Had the engine rebuilt 16yrs and 20K miles ago, life and priorities change and no longer have the cash to "fritter" on "play projects". Original engine rebuild was commissioned due to "chain tensioners - turned out to be broken studs"

So planning on a shoestring, "shadetree" rebuild, with minimal/essential "while you're in there" additions - "but" hoping to end up with a reliable weekend driver/second car (rather than a lawn ornament) - I live on an island 15 miles long, so it is neither going to get stressed, nor many miles, would love some DE days, but it's not an option - though I would like to be able to put my foot to the floor at the occasional light...

OK, so I've been inside enough engines to release that I should leave this to a professional, unfortunately that is not an option, so this is going to be done in the yard over time.

Engine drop is easy, but have following questions,

Car rear is up on 7" ramps, how much is a 78SC with normal suspension likely to rise when the engine is dropped? I plan to remove intake manifold prior to drop - so height for engine (without intake) removal should not be a problem???

Planning an engine "only" drop, but will eventually need to remove rear torsion bars to replace bushings, wondering should I remove engine then trans together for simplicity????

OK, "minimal" rebuild, I know these thing get out of control, but here are a few things to consider.

I live on an island 15 miles long and have a 650 Kawasaki, which I have not yet got past 100mph - this is not a boast, simply a reality and a reference of the speed/load that the rebuilt engine could experience ("raceware" studs failed!)

So, what do I need to do?

I can remove engine, heads, cylinders, what else "MUST" I do?

OK, Studs!!, had been thinking ARP!, "lawd they're expensive!, don't plan on selling this car, nor do I want top rebuild it in 15 years, so what should I use?????

Hoping this will be a topend rebuild only, comments and advice appreciated,

Regards, Glen.....

[Dpmulvan]

Hey glen my good friend lives over on St. John's in Cruze bay. Great weather but a little short on roads. Ever think about building a gyrocopter ? that would be the ultimate machine for down there. Good luck with your refresh!

[Flat6pac]

You ll need to do a valve job if it wasn't done 20K ago.
You ll definitely won't stress the engine and the factory steel studs will work fine.
Bruce