HELP and advice! Major mess-up! Mated my case halves today; was not all as planned

wprater · 03:07 PM

Three things happened:

1. Over-troqued the through-bolts: set my digital torque wrench to 35 ft-lbs. vs 35 Nm (so about 10 ft-lbs. over).

I have not reverted this yet, do I need to do so immediately?

2. While torquing the perimeter bolts on the case halves, I noticed one bolt was missing! So now the case is probably not sealed.

If I could get this bolt in now, would it even be worth trying to torque it, since the case is sealed without it torqued in that area?

3. I realized the 15mm nut for the timing chain area I had was the wrong thread pitch. Hardware store gave me the wrong one and I must have check on the wrong area.

thoughts, input, and advice are very much appreciated!

that 45 minute window really stressed me out.

Amstaff · Amstaff's Garage

Ok, this is tough to swallow but start over. You haven't lost anything but some sealant at this point but if you put the whole thing together and you have a leak it is an expensive venture to reseal it.

VFR750 · 02-13-2016, 03:54 PM

If you don't like the results. Do it over. Sounds like you are not happy with this build. That feeling won't easily go away. Better to do over then wonder why you didn't.

wprater · 02-13-2016, 04:01 PM

yeah, already starting to take it apart.

you think case or through bolts could be damaged?

Amstaff · Amstaff's Garage

No, over torquing by 10 lbs shouldn't do any damage.

Amstaff · Amstaff's Garage

When you are ready for reassembly set out all of your nuts, washers and bolts in advance. Count everything so that you know nothing is missing. Have all of your sealants handy too.

It is also helpful to write down all of your torque settings so that you don't have to dig through the book to find them.

SoyRacer · SoyRacer's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by wprater

yeah, already starting to take it apart.

you think case or through bolts could be damaged?

I actually disagree with disassembly but my opinion is also influenced by what the ambient temperature has been of the engine and how much assembly lube was used (and where).

wprater · 02-13-2016, 04:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoyRacer

I actually disagree with disassembly but my opinion is also influenced by what the ambient temperature has been of the engine and how much assembly lube was used (and where).

it's not a fun process for sure. removing crank and cleaning all these webs.

I'm not sure if I used enough sealant, but the temp in my shop isn't very hot. maybe 60f.

the sealant is still wet and sticky after a couple hours.

I have some pics of the sealant left of the case after taking them apart.

the through bolt o-rings were also pushed through the holes a bit. maybe from over torquing?

Amstaff · Amstaff's Garage

If the loctite is still liquid when you pull it apart just recoat and retorque. Remember that the loctite dries only when the air is removed so anything out the outside will always remain liquid. Putting too much on is not an issue as it will not harden and will be drained after you run your break in oil.

wprater · 02-13-2016, 06:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Amstaff

If the loctite is still liquid when you pull it apart just recoat and retorque. Remember that the loctite dries only when the air is removed so anything out the outside will always remain liquid. Putting too much on is not an issue as it will not harden and will be drained after you run your break in oil.

I used ThreeBond 1184 on the perimeter, so it's kinda sticky now.

also the loctitie dried up in bearing notches, so I got to clean those now too.

going to need to remove the oil pump and intermediate shaft and put this through the parts cleaner.

thanks for you advice!

afterburn 549 · 02-13-2016, 08:33 PM

Why do you have locktite in the bearing notches?

wprater · 02-13-2016, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by afterburn 549

Why do you have locktite in the bearing notches?

you can see what I mean in this pic

afterburn 549 · 09:03 PM

I am not familiar with that trick.
Unless that is a new proven method I would not do that.
However, you will sleep better doing the whole thing over ....
But check on the Loctite in the bearing notch.
AFAIK it will do nothing. The bearing gets seated as the two halves press it into its saddle.
The tabs are a mechanical lock to stop it from spinning.
The Loctite will take up some space.

wprater · 02-13-2016, 08:58 PM

and here is what the viton orings looked like after I took the recently torqued bolts out; is this normal?

wprater · 02-13-2016, 09:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by afterburn 549

I am not familiar with that trick.
Unless that is a new proven method I would not do that.
However, you will sleep better doing the whole thing over ....
But check on the Loctite in the bearing notch..

It was just a manifestation from the loctite applied on the bearing webs there, I guess it leaked in?

afterburn 549 · 02-13-2016, 09:08 PM

OH! OK , now I understand .

Amstaff · Amstaff's Garage

You did it right, locktite on the block webbing is correct.

afterburn 549 · 06:43 PM

You lost nothing but 8 hours ......Could be worse.
I still do not understand the stuff in the main bearing saddles..

VFR750 · 02-14-2016, 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wprater

and here is what the viton orings looked like after I took the recently torqued bolts out; is this normal?

Are the case holes chamfered?

One side of my case was chamfered the other side was not. I added chamfers and I have no leaks or extruded orings.

wprater · 02-14-2016, 01:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VFR750

Are the case holes chamfered?

One side of my case was chamfered the other side was not. I added chamfers and I have no leaks or extruded orings.

Id never known to look for chamfers on the case, only the washers. but after reading this thread, it's clear some prefer them

going to check if it's one side, or none. I dont recall seeing them, but it seems the bolt end that should be on these case chamfers if they're one sided.