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break in query
What distance would be required in road miles to break in new P/Cs. I have clocked up about 100 miles on back roads - undulating twisty roads. But these are all illicit miles and I want to keep them to a minimum before hitting the track.
Thanks Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-) |
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03-10-2016, 01:41 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Charlotte, NC
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Creating cylinder pressure is the important part. 3rd gear, 2500 - 5000, engine brake back down to 2500. If you can engine brake down a hill, even better.
Todd
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'81 SC |
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03-10-2016, 03:53 PM
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Thats pretty much what I am doing, + a bit of boost. Up to 0.5 bar at moment.
But the Q is for how long before WOT on track? Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-) |
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03-10-2016, 04:48 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Rockwall, Texas
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Hey Alan, glad you got your engine back together (I followed your grams removal thread).
Regarding your question - you will get as many different answers as there are people that build engines.  The system that I use, learned from a pro-engine builder that I know and trust, is three heat cycles at a stand still (throttle blipping and so forth . . . checking for leaks and other problems while doing so), followed by a lowish RPM pass though the gears (stop and check for leaks and problems), and then hammer and tongs from that point on. This is easiest to accomplish on a dyno, but can be done street or track, too. So in other words, I would have been ripping on the track in your car already.
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03-10-2016, 05:11 PM
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Thats what I want to hear. I'm not sure prolonged running in has much benefit.
I've had two runs now - about 50 ml each, pushing it a bit more each time, and then checking over for leaks, loose bolts etc. NO leaks. Not a drop. And it sounds and feels awesome. Can't wait to get it on track. I was thinking one more stealth run and perhaps 0.7bar and a few more revs -4-5000. Then drop the oil and head for track. Hopefully a couple of experienced builders may chip in. Track car bit more difficult than road car because easy to run road car in on road. Just avoid babying it. Regards Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-) |
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03-10-2016, 05:56 PM
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