Removing Timing Chain Sprockets

[arbita1]

I'm confused on how to remove the timing chain sprockets.

Wayne's book says to simple pull them off with everything else after you remove the 19mm nut. But it's tight on there and I don't see how this can be removed with the chain tensioner still on there.

Bentley says to remove the chain tensioner first by compressing it with a large pair of plyers and some special tool on the idler. I don't have that special tool and I can't seem to see how to get the plyers in the tight space to compress the piston.

How do you guys remove this?

[Flat6pac]

Just pull off the tensioner, that will relax everything.
Bruce

[VFR750]

You don't have to compress the tensioner to get it off. It will slide on the oil film, but it does take some serious wiggling and pulling. Once the tensioner is off, the sprocket should slide easily off the cam.

[arbita1]

I removed the nut and tried to pull it off by hand. But it won't budge. What am I doing wrong.


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[VFR750]

They have to slide off a long stud. So keeping the tensioner aligned, as you pull on it is the trick.

Try wiggling it, pushing it back in, pulling near the stud.

Worst case scenario is you will need some type of pry bar to get behind it and very gently work it off the stud. This is risky, because you can dent the cam housing or worse bend the stud.

[arbita1]

Originally Posted by VFR750

They have to slide off a long stud. So keeping the tensioner aligned, as you pull on it is the trick.

Try wiggling it, pushing it back in, pulling near the stud.

Worst case scenario is you will need some type of pry bar to get behind it and very gently work it off the stud. This is risky, because you can dent the cam housing or worse bend the stud.

Your explanation helped. I was pulling from the wrong location.

Now how does the woodruff key come out???

[Flat6pac]

Hammer and small flat screwdriver will roll it up.
Grab with a pair of dykes.
Bruce

[arbita1]

Never mind. I found the answer. One side done.

[Alan L]

One side is a bit worse than other for sprocket. Can't remember which. But you need to roll the sprocket out a bit, and if necessary take it one tooth series at a time. When you take the key out, I stuff the area under the key with paper towels - you don't want to have to go fishing for it in the engine. Same for install.
Alan

[arbita1]

Originally Posted by Alan L

One side is a bit worse than other for sprocket. Can't remember which. But you need to roll the sprocket out a bit, and if necessary take it one tooth series at a time. When you take the key out, I stuff the area under the key with paper towels - you don't want to have to go fishing for it in the engine. Same for install.
Alan

The right side. I can't figure out how to get it off. Can you expand on your explanation a bit.

Left side is done.



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[Alan L]

If you ping the tension slipper off you will find it easier. But I think you can get there without doing that. I am sure the shop boys have it nailed. But here is my shot. Try rolling the sprocket, rather than just trying to pull it clear, lift the chain as clear as you can at around 6 o'clock and try and roll the chain or sprocket counter clockwise - but only one tooth set first. Hopefully you can get the sprocket half way out. It may help to put a small screwdriver between the chain and sprocket at 6 o'clock and feed the chain inboard as you go around counter clockwise. One tooth-set inboard. Pull the sprocket as far foward as you can while doing it - but no so far you tighten the chain - leave enough slack to get the screw driver in.
Then repeat again.
Good luck
Alan

[arbita1]

No. I had the dowel pin still in and it wouldn't come out with that installed. Funny because the left side did no problem. It was tight in there and I was afraid to pull too hard. It eventually popped out and the sprocket came off easily. Here is where I am.




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