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3.0 SC knocking sound
I have a knocking sound from my 911 3.0 sc engine (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=iYWawYPiCXM). I have tried listening with a stethoscope, and it was definitely loudest at the the left chain cover. Removed the cover and found this.
![]() Way to stretched chain, right? I will have to change this, but could this be making the knocking sound? Or do you have any ideas about what would cause the sound? I have uploaded a clip, if it helps. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=iYWawYPiCXM Thanks! Last edited by GDR; 04-26-2016 at 12:12 PM.. Reason: Moved video-link up so people look at more than just the photo :) |
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You need to address and change a lot ASAP. Your chain tensioner / idle arm is against the case so you are getting no tension...you could lose the chain at any time. Your idle sprocket looks heavily worn as well. Real Engine pro's will chime in but I would also address and look at the right side as well plus your cam sprockets etc.
You must have some big mileage on this engine or these components have never been changed?
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Marlon 1973 911 3.0 MFI |
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Sway bar is right. And give it more oil changes.
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Mark www.exotechpower.com 1981 Targa-messed with. 91 C2 supercharged track rat Radical Prosport-irritates the GT3 guys 40 years of rebuilding services |
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Thanks! I am not driving the car before this is fixet. I do not know the milage on this engine, but it is definitely not as good as expected.
Just bought the car and the knocking sound suddently started. Could the worn chain be causing the sound or do i have more problems? https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=iYWawYPiCXM |
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The idler arm is probably knocking on the case. Time to shelve the car and get engine out before more serious damage. At the moment it is just a restoration/maintenance job :-)
Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-) |
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Put a long screw driver on the top of the chain case and put your ear to the handle. That should tell you if you found the noise. You can fit chains with a join link - ie don't have to split the case. But it takes a fair amount of wear to stretch them like that. You may well find extensive wear in lots of other places when you pull it down. You can probably fit the joiner chains with engine in (just guessing), and time the cams etc without having to pull engine.
But if you plan on keeping it and getting some mileage out of it, you are probably going to pull the engine and do a top end tear down at least. The rest will depend on what you find. While you are in there, be prepared for a fairly long list of replacement/wear/tear. It depends on what you plan or want to do with the engine. But if it is looking like a complete rebuild and you don't feel up to it, a better option may be to swap in another SC engine. you would get some funds from yours towards it. Depending whether the rest of the engine has as much wear as the chains. Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-) Last edited by Alan L; 04-26-2016 at 03:50 PM.. |
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Engine needs a split-case rebuild. Basically - a full rebuild . . . . Now.
Chain is stretched beyond mechanical limits.
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1973 Porsche 911 RS 1981 Porsche 931 Euro-Intercooled-GT 1984 Porsche 911 Euro Carrera widebody 1987 Porsche 924s Rallye Spec Instagram: @soyracer |
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When the chain is worn that much, the tensioner is fully extended and still can't take up all the slack.
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Thanks. Appreciate the answers.
I will put it back together, have a listen again with the stethoscope to hear if it is the idler arm that is knocking on the case making the sound, now that I have a better idea of where to listen. If so, I will replace the chain and idler sprocket for now, and consider a rebuild or 3.6 swap this winter. Do you think this is making the noise, or could it possible be bottom end? |
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Quote:
This was mine BEFORE I did my rebuild and I had a stretched chain .. look at the clearance at the top. ![]()
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1976 Yamaha XS360 ( Beats Walkin') 1978 911 SC Targa ( Yamaha Support Vehicle ) 2006 Audi A4 2.0T (Porsche Support Vehicle ) 2014 Audi A4 2.0T Technik (Audi Support Vehicle) |
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Quote:
What shouldn't I bother doing? Sorry. I see.. Mine is really stretched. I am changing the chain no matter what. I would just like to know if the noise is caused by this before, so I can decide whether to remove the engine and do more work, or just the chain for now. |
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Your other chain will be just as worn.
And as I posted before - unless the engine has had other work done, and the chains ignored, there will be lots of wear elsewhere. But the stethescope/screwdriver will tell you if that is the noise, or elsewhere. You may even be able to feel the chain issue on top of the case with engine running. Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-) |
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Well, you came here for some advice. And you've received some well educated/live advice. Based on what's been presented, the advice to rebuild is pretty spot on. Unless the funds are not convenient at this time.
Its like the oil change advice...who ever previously owned it, did not maintain it well. Just my uneducated view. Good luck. |
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Quote:
This is certainly a tried and (often) true way of identifying the source of an engine noise, except that in this case it means starting this potential grenade even one more time. The engine clearly needs a rebuild, or at a minimum new chains, idler arms, gears, tensioners etc., so why take even the slightest chance at this point?
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That is a nasty sounding engine. You may be hearing the tensioner hitting the case. You may also be hearing the valves crashing the pistons.
Sorry to say, there is no good reason to start it again. Judging from the internal color, this poor engine has not been maintained very well. Oil wetted surfaces should not look rusted. |
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I listened to that video and had to shut it off. That engine needs to come out and be pulled apart and rebuilt correctly. I would not drive it for fear of doing real damage. That poor car was not treated well at some point for sure. Good luck.
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sorry I wasn't clear . I meant don't bother running it more as you are likely to do more/continue damage. If you want you could put chains on, time cams, button it up then listen. if its something else at least your chains are done.
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1976 Yamaha XS360 ( Beats Walkin') 1978 911 SC Targa ( Yamaha Support Vehicle ) 2006 Audi A4 2.0T (Porsche Support Vehicle ) 2014 Audi A4 2.0T Technik (Audi Support Vehicle) |
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