Lisle Valve Keeper Remover/Installer Tool

[DRACO A5OG]

Demo


Have any of you tried this tool with heads still on the engine?

While I am doing my 964 Cam Swap and Rocker/Shaft/Seals Refresh.

I have Brand New springs I am considering changing and refreshing the valve seals.

Anyone tried this tool and any feed back would be greatly appreciated.

I should do a complete top end rebuild and remove the heads and send them out but I am trying to keep from slipping down that slope. You know, trying real REAL hard to stay on target and not discover a year or two later I am still adding things to the simple "swap/refresh"

Doing a clutch job too , new pressure plate to boot.

[Spenny_b]

Just my 2p....I wouldn't entertain trying to use that (@8.00mins I was just waiting for the tool to slip and a faceplant into the cylinder head!)

Maybe I'm missing something but in order for the tool to work you need to prevent the valve from opening...obviously...and the only way to do that in-situ is by using the piston at TDC?! (Plus I don't think you'd be able to get sufficiently on top of it whilst doing the inlet valves; chassis proximity.)

Versus removing the heads to use this tool...

...in which case it looks to be a hard answer to a question that's not being asked....a good old C-clamp valve removal tool is just fine. Smashing a hammer onto the end of this tool ^^^ to bounce the spring, then relying on stiction to hold valve collets in place on refitting....yikes! Not on my engine.

(I'm sure somebody will be along completely contradicting me and saying it's the best thing since sliced bread, as is the way...)


ETA - if you're going to the trouble of refreshing valve hardware and seals, I think I'd take that opportunity to check valve guide wear....as mentioned in another thread at the moment, that'll greatly determine your long-term engine health with it's ability to transfer heat (or not, if worn)

[Josh D]

Having replaced a valve seal on the exhaust side in situ, here are my thoughts:

The valves can be held in place using compressed air via the spark plug hole and appropriate hoses/adapters. I used one from a leak down test kit.

The dual valve springs would be way to stiff to use that tool. You would not be able to push the spring down by hand. There are special tools (one for intake, one for exhaust) to compress the spring with the cam tower in place sold here by our host. It works well.

Removal is easy, re-install can be tricky. There is just not a lot of space to work with the spring compressor in place. There is usually only one area you can get a keeper on the valve stem. Use a dab of grease to get it to stay on the valve stem. Then rotate it out of the way and install the second keeper using a dab of grease to hold it in place. Remove valve spring tool and your done.

Easy to do on the exhaust side. I would not even want to try doing intake side in the car. Way to easy to drop a keeper and not be able to find/retrieve it.

[boyt911sc]

Jim,

Removing the valve springs with the cylinder head removed from the engine is easy and simple. A typical C-clamp spring compressor would do the job. This is a common tool among engine rebuilders. And not too long ago, I came to remove the valve springs in situ after an engine rebuild suffered bent valves during a start up. So without tearing the whole engine apart, I used the P7I and P7E tools to test all the 24 valves. The cylinder that suffered a broken rocker had 2 bent valves and the rest were not damaged. The offending cylinder head was removed and sent to the machine shop for valve replacements.

I was able to finish the test without using compressed air @ TDC to my surprised. While I borrowed these tools from someone, I intend to buy them for my next project.




The Lisse tool shown in the video will not work for me because I am not strong enough to compress the valve springs. Don't know about you but it would take a lot of force to push these valve springs to release the valve keepers.

Tony

[DRACO A5OG]

Thank you gentlemen,

I really appreciate the input and concerns. I will take all into consideration before attempting the task.

Originally, I got the tool for the Lexus to replace leaking valve seals. Worked well using the string in cylinder method while engine and heads were still on the car.

But I am removing the engine for my old baby and nervous nelly about tearing the engine apart.

Again many thanks fellas!

Jim

[ganun]

pretty cool tool Draco, I guess with 4 valve heads it really is a must unless time is not an issue!
A question is whether it works upside down, for the exhaust side ...removal is OK but with the install I suppose retainer and keepers have to be held in place with what , a dab of grease?
BTW IMO the removing the cam towers and heads is not much more work, its air cooled!