porsche tool 9517/1 - one piece $4.75

[pzi993]

The rear 993 engine crank shaft seal replacement can be a challenge. The large diameter seal is very difficult to tap in as it can be done with the smaller seals. I ordered a replacement for the 150k miles engine and thought I can just "wing it" just like with the front one. Not to be the case. Looked at alternatives for the original 9571 + 9571/1 set for some $600 and was not convinced. Lucky experienced help showed up very timely (https://www.facebook.com/zfabmotorsports/) and he showed me how to use a toilet flange with 3 flywheel bolts to do it for $4 in 15min. Just get the PVC 4 inch fitting from home depot. Cut off the square part from the top. Screw in 3 flywheel bolts in and mark the heads with a spray paint. Put the flange on top of them to mark the spots for the holes. Drill some 1/2 inch holes in the PVC and you have you home grown 9571 tool. Improvise 3 spacers from a 1/2 inch PVC tubing , put the seal in place with a generous amount of engine oil and turn the flywheel bolts one at the time half a rotation at the time. I checked the progress of pushing the seal in to arrive at 2mm below the crank case level.

[DRACO A5OG]

Oh my, I think you went too far in , It needs to be flush.

Sorry to rain on your parade.

But great Idea, I used the old one as a drift and used my rubber mallet to tap it in evenly.

[Forrestkhaag]

Agree with the comment as to depth however, my 993 seal was a 16th inset as in the photo and never leaked, not even a smidgen........ to quote a another misguided soul.....

[pzi993]

And you based it on what? Factory specs? Here they are:

[DRACO A5OG]

Well, I stand corrected.

It is what I found when I removed my flywheel. Supposedly a pro-wrench did mine , Then again, I am not surprised. My timing was way off and all my rocker shafts were mis-aligned.

Guess I am going to press mine in too using your SST.

Thank you,

Jim

[pzi993]

Mine was as well flash. Then I looked at the manual and found that 2mm depth. I measured the seal and the depth of the flange - the seal is 12mm thick and the flange is 16mm deep. This means that 2mm deep is in the middle and actually forces you to use some kind of guide tool. Now since the crankshaft is completely straight so it does not matter and that 2mm is just most likely to sell you $600 tool unless that removal notch is too deep. Picture of what I found - the ding in the notch indicates that it was already replaced at least once.

[DRACO A5OG]

Damn so annoying that pro-wrenches do not follow spec . How hard is it really. Probably did not have your PZI993-SST

Thank you again Brother, saved my Arse from leaking :-)

So how about the Crank Seal, should that also be in a MM or 2? I also noticed the my old seal had like relief ports/section on the lower inside of the seal. Is that to insure proper orientaion of the seal? I wonder. I see on the KACO brand PORSCHE is labeled on them for the front seal I had the label on top.

I just noticed the crank seal has it too

[Trackrash]

The original workshop manual states the seal should be flush with the case.

At some point it appears Porsche changed its mind.

[Trackrash]

Looks like it is still flush from the Carrera manual.

[DRACO A5OG]

So I will take as it is good to go both way

[pzi993]

So you claim that based on that drawing you would install if flush and ignore explicit instructions to do 2mm deep? If you have one that is fresh and does not leak I would leave it . But for new installation I would do 2mm.

[DRACO A5OG]

AS long as it does not leak, I will be a happy camper.

PZI993, thanks for post. I made the tool and worked like a charm.

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

AS long as it does not leak, I will be a happy camper.

PZI993, thanks for post. I made the tool and worked like a charm.

Jim,

Welcome to the HD hardware tool club. I have several garage tools including a few engine rebuilding tools that were fabricated from HD hardwares and plumbing supplies. But as you get older and wiser (?) you tend to treat yourself better by buying or using tools from Stomski, Snap-On, Sir tools, Baum tools, etc.





Tony

[pzi993]

This looks nice and clean but it will allow you to put the seal only flush with the flange. You need some kind of ring that fits the size of the seal to push it in - like in the toilet flange I used.

I agree that using tools designed for the job is much wiser. The 'no alternative' type of tools for 993 are the camshaft lock adapters and mechanical chain tensioners. I had to spend hundreds on those. Still paying $600 for crank seal installation tool is shocking. I was hoping to find alternative in this or other forums where a say $100 tool can be used. Unfortunately nobody shared their knowledge and it looks like people tap that seal in with the hammer which I refuse to do.

[pzi993]

I somehow missed that thread on P234 tool for $120 Rear Main Seal Install with P234 tool - highly recommended

[DRACO A5OG]

Well I still like the 4.75 price tag either way :-)

[pzi993]

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by pzi993

This looks nice and clean but it will allow you to put the seal only flush with the flange. You need some kind of ring that fits the size of the seal to push it in - like in the toilet flange I used.

I agree that using tools designed for the job is much wiser. The 'no alternative' type of tools for 993 are the camshaft lock adapters and mechanical chain tensioners. I had to spend hundreds on those. Still paying $600 for crank seal installation tool is shocking. I was hoping to find alternative in this or other forums where a say $100 tool can be used. Unfortunately nobody shared their knowledge and it looks like people tap that seal in with the hammer which I refuse to do.

pzi993,

Sorry to disappoint you. But this drain strainer contraption is more versatile than yours (just kidding). It could install flushed or 2-mm recessed. The bigger OD is about 115 mm and the smaller OD is 108 mm while the crankseal OD is 110 mm. So if you want to install with recessed, simply use the 108-OD to push the seal in or the 115-OD for flushed installation.



BTW, I have been using this contraption for more than 10 years using the flashed installation technique. So if I have to follow the 2-mm recessed installation, all I have to do is flip it and use the other side. Thanks for bringing up the updated version.

Tony

[john walker's workshop]

The plus/minus positioning of the seal lets the builder place the seal lip on a fresh, unworn place on the journal. Flush, to all the way in is available. Ever notice the slight groove the seal wears on some cranks?

[DRACO A5OG]

^^^ Dr JW, very interesting and makes perfect sense.

BTW, here is another HD SST tool I just picked up for my Diff seals: