Feeling foolish, 915 trans won't come off a motor

[Mick_D]

I've been trying to get this 1976 915 to come off this 1976 2.7l motor for days. All the bolts are off, but the clutch fork will not disengage from the throwout bearing and the throwout bearing will not turn. The lever at the bottom of the clutch will move about an 8th inch but no more, and I've tried clamping pressure and lever ( cheater bar) slipped over the end. anyone got any ideas?

[Rawknees'Turbo]

Mick, can you get in there with a thin bar and give the release bearing some wacks with a hammer? Might free it up.

[Mick_D]

I have trieds that once, using an oak dowel and a malllet so I wouldn't dent anything. AM I hoping to get the throwout bearing unfrozen from teh clutchplate in order to spin it? Is there a place on the throwout bearing that doesn't have that side wall so the clutch fork can slip over?
My clutch fork/throwout look like this:

[Mick_D]

The transmission is in nuetral. DO I have to pull the plugs on teh motor and try turning the crank? Nothing its turning at all.\

[Rawknees'Turbo]

Basically you just need to jar it loose - would help to drown the bearing & pressure plate finger area with penetrating oil first (looks heavily corroded in pic).

Pulling the plugs would make turning crank easier, but usually not necessary (sure won't hurt in your case, though).

[Mick_D]

yeah I've got some wd 40 sitting on it now. I don't know what else I can do.

[rwest]

On my 77, there is a weird thing you have to do to get them separated- they explain it in the Haynes manual.

I'm not near mine now, but will be soon and will look it up

[rwest]

[rwest]

[rwest]

I think I made my spacer out of a slice of 1/2" copper pipe and put a washer on top- been a bunch of years, so memory is foggy!

[fanaudical]

Do you have the lever at the bottom of the clutch fork shaft removed? I thought that this has to be off the shaft in order for the shaft to rotate far enough to allow separation (otherwise the lever at the bottom hits the case or something).

[DRACO A5OG]

^^^+1, when I read OP state "lever"

[Mick_D]

RWest: While I have those bolts, I do not have those square portals. My portal is on the side opposite the starter, under a shroud. It is a 1976.

FAnaudical: No, the lefver is still there, but I see no binding. I will remove it and try to pull them apart again.

[Mick_D]

I can't get that lever to move at all, nor can I rotate the throwout bearing/pressure plate. My clutch lever does not have that omega spring or helper spring attached. So what explosives do I need to use?
On my other car, someone has the frequency of my key fob now and has been remote starting, unlocking, and popping the trunk remotely for a few days. Life's just lots of fun.

[Rawknees'Turbo]

Originally Posted by Mick_D

I can't get that lever to move at all, nor can I rotate the throwout bearing/pressure plate. My clutch lever does not have that omega spring or helper spring attached. So what explosives do I need to use?
On my other car, someone has the frequency of my key fob now and has been remote starting, unlocking, and popping the trunk remotely for a few days. Life's just lots of fun.

A bigger hammer and more lube (can never have too much lube, buttofcourse)!!!

Wonder if you can find info online for how to re-program the other car's keyfob code?

[Mick_D]

is the throwout bearing attached to the pressure plate? should I be able to rtotate the pressure plate at all?

I have a call in to the dealer. Will talk to them on Monday. Either the remote gets new frequencies ( it could already be on a rolling frequency that changes every time it gets used ) or I make them disable the whole shebang of remote stuff.

[Mick_D]

I must be incompetent as a mechanic. I am trying to get the fan housing off and the alternator's ground strap is defeating me. Can't reach the wrires on top of the alternator becuasew there are two vanes attached to a shourd that's bolted to the alternator. I think I'm giving in for the night.

[Rawknees'Turbo]

On Turbos, the throwout bearing is not attached, but on a 915, I think it is held in place with a large circlip. The pressure plate will rotate with the flywheel - clutched engaged or not (it's bolted to the flywheel).

The air guide cone on the back of the alternator has to be unbolted and pushed back in order to get to the nuts that hold the wires in place (the whole harness passes though the back of the cone) - three or so very small nuts (not like THAT) and washers hold the cone on - very difficult to get to, not drop them, etc. A really sharty design in my opinion.

[rwest]

Originally Posted by Mick_D

RWest: While I have those bolts, I do not have those square portals. My portal is on the side opposite the starter, under a shroud. It is a 1976.

FAnaudical: No, the lefver is still there, but I see no binding. I will remove it and try to pull them apart again.

Mick,

To put in the bolts, you go in through the starter hole and the spacers with the bolts allow you to take the pressure off of the bearing, which will allow you to take it apart- unless I'm not reading or understanding the issue, I think you need to do that step. The square hole I think is on top of the transmission and is used after you have drawn the plate with the bolts. You need three sets.

You might also want to post on the technical section as it gets much more traffic.

Rutager

[Mark Henry]

Have you taken off the bolts holding the pressure plate to the flywheel?

If you have put them back in
Then try again.