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-   -   930 rebuild – The revival of my mothballed project (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/927868-930-rebuild-revival-my-mothballed-project.html)

Costa P 01-21-2017 11:30 AM

Garage Recap
 
For the 1st time, since we moved into our new home, the garage is clean and ready for proper work to commence!

To recap:
-The engine was dropped in 2010 at our old home (double garage).
-In 2011 we decided to move.
-We started renovations at the new home in 2011. The house received priority, the garage had to wait.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1485029096.jpg

The garage started receiving TLC in 2014
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1485029096.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1485029096.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1485029096.jpg

By 2015, things were looking good. But unfortunately not much progress on the car itself! So beginning of 2016 I went to Cafe9 for assistance to build the engine.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1485029096.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1485029096.jpg

At the end of 2016, decided to cancel the rented storage unit which contained lots of cr@p from the original move. It seemed like a good idea when I originally rented it, but in hind sight I was only prolonging the agony of cleaing out cr@p and in the process wasted dozens of months of rent!!!
So during Dec 2016 my garage ended up looking like this!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1485029096.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1485029096.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1485029096.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1485029096.jpg

Costa P 01-21-2017 11:41 AM

2017 - Good times ahead
 
Many weeks of sorting through old stuff and donations to charity or disposing garbage and the garage looks like this:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1485030717.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1485030717.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1485030717.jpg

Looking at these pictures, I’v just realised that the picture of the clean desk was taken on Monday night and today the desk became occupied by the household vacuum cleaner which is undergoing surgery http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat5.gif

Costa P 01-21-2017 12:00 PM

Project Status - Jan 2017
 
I purchased Spencer's old Denso COPs and the ignition amplifiers:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1485031602.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1485031602.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1485031602.jpg

Chris, what was that about the slippery slope!

I just need to make sure that the parts which I fabricate are as smart as Spencer's and Chris's work ;)

Costa P 01-21-2017 12:10 PM

...and some Turbo p@rn
 
...and I took some time to admire the GT35 (on my clean bench) which I bought from Chris @ TK late last year:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1485032821.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1485032821.jpg

Costa P 01-21-2017 12:20 PM

Cam Sync sensor
 
...and some thinking about the placement of the cam sync sensor:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1485033303.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1485033303.jpg

Cam sync and exhaust fabrication is on the To-Do list for the next few weeks.
Cheers

Spenny_b 01-21-2017 03:54 PM

Excellent clear-up job mate - envious of you having a proper thinking-desk to sit at and measure/draw.

Laughing at that box of beer in the background - damn tasty drop, I've still got one left.

With the cam phase sensor, I welded over the gaps where the air pump belt once went through, and located the HE sensor at about the 4-5 o'clock position, per your last pic - remember, R&R once in-situ will be easier, should you need to. I used one of the ally bosses that Chris supplied with the sensor, and got Pete-the-welder to weld it where I wanted it, then drilled through into the original housing for the HE sensor to pass through, then set about smoothing off the weld to make it look stock. A quick vapour blast got it all looking uniform and fresh.

Costa P 04-07-2018 10:37 AM

Smoke signal....I'm still alive
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Costa P (Post 9268113)
04 Sept 2016 Post #1 http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/927868-930-rebuild-revival-my-mothballed-project.html#post9268113

Hi everyone,

My name is Costa and I love air cooled Porsches!

Although I have been lurking around the Pelican forums...long before I owned one,
I have never actually introduced myself, until now.....

Hello everyone,

My name is [still] Costa......I still love air cooled Porsches....and although I have been quiet for a long time....I'm still alive.....I'm still truly afflicted.....and I still intend to complete this project :D

Next, I need to explain my long absence;
My last post on this thread was on 21 Jan 2017. I had just cleared up the garage and the workspace was nicely organised. I made some further progress, which I have not yet shared online (ill still do that with a subsequent post).

a) In mid February 2017, my employer gave me a fantastic opportunity to further my studies. By the beginning of March 2017, I was enrolled and started attending part time classes for a 1 yearlong postgraduate degree in business management! Needless to say, returning to study (after an absence of +16 years) was quite a shock to my system…

b) In mid May 2017, just as the 2nd block of classes began, our daughter was born. Yes, evidently I am crazy….embarking on postgrad studies in the same year that we are expecting our first child!

I have been blessed with a healthy daughter. I have been blessed with a good job and employer. The past 14 months are a bit of a blur; Long nights studying till late compounded by long nights with fragmented sleep attending to our infant daughter. Needless to say, the daytime responsibilities at work were by no means reduced….in fact you should all know Murphy!

Understandably, the project took a back seat. There was absolutely no time nor energy left in me!

I have [still] been lurking around whenever I have a chance. But I am making a concerted effort now, to pick up again from where I left off…

Costa P 04-07-2018 11:36 AM

Warming up
 
Best way to get the blood flowing and heart beating is to buy some trick parts ;)
Thank you Chris @ TK SmileWavy

The package arrived Thursday morning:
  • ID1050cc injector set
  • Race port BOV
  • 2x Compgate 40mm wastegates
  • 2x 044 pumps
  • Lightweight UHP SACHS clutch, alu ring gear extension and S/S release bearing extension
  • Fuel pressure regulator + 10micron fuel filter
  • Lots of nice motorsport hose fittings

#excited

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523128576.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523128576.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523128576.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523128576.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523128576.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523128576.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523128576.jpg

Costa P 04-07-2018 01:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Costa P (Post 9992295)
....My last post on this thread was on 21 Jan 2017. I had just cleared up the garage and the workspace was nicely organised. I made some further progress, which I have not yet shared online (ill still do that with a subsequent post).....

I’v been going through my photo archives to remember what the heck I was doing exactly before the project was halted;
Early in March 2017, I started preparing my TIG equipment to tackle the custom DIY fabrication of my new S/S headers:

The usual TIG flow regulator provides only one outlet (for the TIG torch)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523135399.jpg

The correct welding procedure for S/S requires the inside of the pipe to also be purged with argon gas, this allows a nice and shiny full penetration weld on the inside. Without purging, the weld on the inside frankly looks like crap!
Some running around during my lunch break yielded the necessary bits to Y-split the outlet of the flow regulator. The blue knobs allow you to set the flow rate separately for each of the lines. The TIG torch receives supply from the flow meter. The purge line feeds to a stop cock and out through a sintered brass silencer. The silencer is used to gently disperse the gas into the inside of the pipe. The flow rate through the purge line is set with an external flow meter and the stop cock is used to conveniently start/stop the flow.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523134975.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523134975.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523134975.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523134975.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523134975.jpg

The first two welds were made without purging the inside. The last weld was done together with purging the inside.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523136912.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523136912.jpg

Oh BTW, the welds look like crap....evidently....because (a) my TIG welding needs some serious practice and (b) I still need to replace the normal TIG cup with a TIG gas lens! (which provides improved gas shielding on the outside of the pipe)

Costa P 04-07-2018 02:14 PM

It is crucial to achieve a perfect mate/fit between the two pipes. Any gap is detrimental to the quality of the weld. Opportunity to buy more tools :D

The first test samples were cut by hacksaw (with the correct blade for S/S). They were then squared off on a linisher (belt sander).
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523137578.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523137578.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523137578.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523137578.jpg

Cutting S/S pipe with a hack saw is not fun!
The search for appropriate power tools continued.
I already had a 230mm makita + base. So I searched and found a reputable brand 1.9mm thick cutting disk suitable for S/S. This is an extremely thin cutting disk!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523137771.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523137771.jpg

Using a 230mm grinder scares me. Using it with a 1.9mm thick cutting disk , in hind sight, is frankly insane! I cautiously completed 2 or 3 cuts max and decided that it was not worth dying for!
While cutting, the disc goes into a resonance and wobbles side to side in a figure of 8. The blurred thickness appears about 5mm thick!!!

Need a different approach. Time to buy more tools!
The mother of pipe cutters!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523138843.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523138843.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523138843.jpg

Costa P 04-07-2018 02:47 PM

...and some more tools
 
The belt that came with the belt sander is not appropriate for S/S. In my true fashion, over kill is underrated. I ordered some custom made belts from PFERD, using the VSM ceramic grain XK870X 80gritt abrasive.

On a side note, VSM ceramic abbrasives are phenomenal! Refer youtube video “VSM The Power of Ceramics” https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xCvIgwNFgKI&t=70s. Whereby a test piece with diameter 30mm is fed into the abrasive belt and ground shorter by 50mm in 20sec flat! (250gr material removed)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523140187.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523140187.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523140187.jpg

And a few more bits and bobs:

An assortment of strong hand pipe pliers and clamps. Kevlar heat protector for your finger (AKA TIG finger). S/S bellows & V_band clamps. Oh, and new iridium plugs
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523140344.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523140344.jpg

An assortment of TIG gas lenses. Choose your cup size :D
They arrived broken and have since been replaced under shipping warranty.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523140344.jpg

Pyrex lens, intended for some or other smoking/vaping gadget.
My intention is to use it as a DIY HUGE ARSE TIG Gas lens!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523140344.jpg

And this is, more-or-less, how far I got last year!

Costa P 04-07-2018 02:57 PM

oh...forgot to post the actual S/S groceries
 
Oh...forgot to post pics of the 316S/S dairy bends which will be used to fabricate the headers:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523141398.jpg

More test pieces, ready for welding practice.
They were cut using the RIDGID pipe cutter and dressed on the new VSM abrasive belt.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523141398.jpg

Plastic end caps which will be used for purging (instead of the blue painters tape). Also have some quick connect pipe fittings which will be installed together with the plastic end caps.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523141398.jpg


I think this sums up the progress made last year :D
Need to pick things up again and continue the journey...

boosted79 04-08-2018 01:42 PM

Forget that big piece of pyrex for a cup, WAY too big, you want the Ar focused. You are probably using a 3/32 tungsten I would guess or maybe 1/8? Try a 7 or 8 cup. The lens allows you to run a larger tungsten stick out and still maintain arc coverage. The nice thing about SS is even though it is a PITA to fit up if you get it perfect you can fusion weld it with no filler rod. Tiny overlapping circles across the joint.

TurboKraft 04-08-2018 08:57 PM

Costa -- you sound happy to be back at it. Congrats on the baby, and on the graduate degree!

Costa P 04-09-2018 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boosted79 (Post 9993752)
Forget that big piece of pyrex for a cup, WAY too big, you want the Ar focused. You are probably using a 3/32 tungsten I would guess or maybe 1/8? Try a 7 or 8 cup. The lens allows you to run a larger tungsten stick out and still maintain arc coverage. The nice thing about SS is even though it is a PITA to fit up if you get it perfect you can fusion weld it with no filler rod. Tiny overlapping circles across the joint.

Hi boosted79. I’ll take your advice and practice running beads with the no 8 cup and gas lens.
I kinda got carried away, over-analysing youtube videos and welding forums and ended up buying a whole bunch of super large cups & lenses!
If I remember correctly, I’v been using 1.6mm tungsten (1/16).
Don’t get much time to pop into the garage at this point in time. It will be some time before I’m practicing my TIG welding again.

PS. How is your beast Lincoln TIG welder doing ;)
Would love to get a proper welder but for now I’m going try make the most of my scratch-start rig.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TurboKraft (Post 9994165)
Costa -- you sound happy to be back at it. Congrats on the baby, and on the graduate degree!

Hi Chris. Hehe oh yes :D
Thank you for your kind wishes.
It was very therapeutic going through my photo archives, remembering what the heck I last did and writing it up. It’s scary how quickly the past 12 months have gone by!
I don’t get a chance to spend time in the garage yet, the baby is still keeping us on our toes. But I’m starting to sneak an hour here and there doing “office work” on the project. Need to finalise my shopping list of sensors for the EFI and finalise the assignment of all the inputs/outputs in MoTec M1 Tune. Then I can start planning the new engine harness etc.




So after quite a bit of research on pedal position sensors, I have narrowed it down to the following short list of options:
1) BOSCH 0280752010 / 99660611500
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523305209.jpg
I like this unit from Spenny’s install.
Pros: This particular derivative has P car heritage and therefore I expect that it will continue being around for a long time to come. Surprisingly, other similar BOSCH parts from this family of sensors are NLA!
Cons: (a)Pricey. (b) I think it is based on “old technology” whereby it uses 2x traditional resistive potentiometers (resistive pots inevitably/eventually give crap).

2) BOSCH 0205001029
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523306296.jpg
Pros: Sensors based on hall effect technology (contactless). Used on numerous M-BENZ models and still used on the G-class!
Cons: Enough online info proving that even hall effect units give crap!

3) Penny+Giles motorsport sensor like SRH220DR or TPS280DP
Pros: Good technical info & datasheets available. Motorsport proven reliability.
Cons: Where to buy and pricing not yet determined.


hmmm...

boosted79 04-09-2018 04:53 PM

Costa P - I think 1/16 is too small for those ells, they look like about 3mm (.125") How many amps were you running? I'd use 3/32 (2.4mm) on those. Save the 1/16 for the really thin stuff. 3/32 is a good all around tungsten thickness. You'll probably have to use filler rod on those. Bevel the cuts about half way through the wall, lay the rod into the groove. Scratch start will work just fine, you don't need all those bells and whistles to weld SS. Practice, practice, like everything else in life pretty much.

mb911 04-10-2018 04:12 AM

1/16 tungsten with about 65 amps is all that will be needed to do this correctly. We make these the same way http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523362257.jpg

boosted79 04-10-2018 05:31 AM

What is the wall thickness?

mb911 04-10-2018 06:31 AM

Mine are .065

boosted79 04-10-2018 06:50 AM

Those are nice looking headers. His looks a lot thicker but it's probably because the inside hasn't been deburred on the cut.


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