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build vs buy

I want to find out how feasible building a motor from scratch - let's say a 3.4 twinplug - vs buying a 3.2 and modding it would be. I'm on a budget so the initial costs of $10K or more will take me a year to come up with. But a block and crank, then rods, then .. well, I dunno what else I'd need. Any insights here?
Old 09-19-2016, 07:38 AM
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It's cheaper to buy the complete unit than piece it together.
The down side is, I never know what I ve got until I open it and there is always room to get stung.
Think, a 3.0 can basically be 35 years old and where it's been or what's been done is hard to tell when it's sitting on the floor.
Just this week, I opened a 78 3.0 long block that I bought off the floor. Turned out I won, still has 930 part numbers on the rods and mains, case is straight, heads are clean and rods are too. Down side is the alucil barrels, no shroud, fan exhaust, flywheel, and whatever else.
Bruce
Old 09-19-2016, 09:04 AM
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yeah the dollars add up , but in the case of the build, they don't have to all be spent at the same time. That's sort of where I am at. It'll take me a year to afford a motor. I was thinking 'save for a year, buy a running o0ne and go with that for another year, then buy the motor you want'. but Man. that's three years down the road At least piecing something together would give me something to do while it's down
I think I may do both, though: buy a running motor, use that while I build the motor I want.
We shall see....
Old 09-19-2016, 09:11 AM
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I would save up and buy a motor in need of a rebuild. Like a leaky '86/'87 in need of valve guides.
Then you can do your head work and P&C swap all at the same time.
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Old 09-19-2016, 09:21 AM
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Does your current engine have issues, or you just want something more? I knew what I wanted to build and started keeping an eye on the classifieds for used parts (PMOs, headers, lightened flywheel, etc.). In the end, it all adds up though. I don't think 10k covered the actual build, machining and remaining parts.

Todd
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Old 09-19-2016, 05:58 PM
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I don't have a current engine. car came with a 2.7 from 1976 and I want to use something bigger. Ultimate goal is a really flat torque curve with gobs or horsepower. I'm more interested in torque to be honest. Big-bore intake, oooh
Old 09-20-2016, 09:22 AM
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$10K won't get it done unless you do all the work yourself.
Old 09-24-2016, 04:07 PM
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$10K buys a running motor, but not a rebuilt one. Is what I'd need bigger pistons and cylinders, plus some head work, and a replacement for the CIS ( carbs or EFI/ITB? ) ? I wanna know all the required components.
Old 09-24-2016, 04:35 PM
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Why not sell off your 2.7 for a 3l, install it and drive it for 6 mos. to a year so you can figure out what you like/don't like/want in that engine? There are plenty of guys in the HSR series that would want your 2.7l so it should be easy to sell. Then you can design your build around that platform. Depending on what you want your engine for will pretty much dictate what you do for the rebuild. I went a slight track upgrade but really wanted to maintain the bulletproof reliability of the 3.2l so all I did was clean the piss out of everything I could, updates, seals and gaskets, serviced the fuel injectors, sent the heads out and lastly, cams & exhaust. Anyway, my point is, because I took my time in figuring out what I wanted, I was able to do my rebuild to exactly what I wanted my cars engine to do. So, I hope you figure it out.
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Old 09-24-2016, 11:42 PM
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I sold the 2.7 and don't currently have a motor.
Old 09-25-2016, 11:44 AM
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I am in the same boat. My gut is telling me to build, it will be more expensive, but used is used and who knows what you've got??

At the least a build will eliminate the unknowns
Old 09-25-2016, 02:50 PM
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From 91429962993bk2914
 
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Not necessarily more expensive. A couple of months ago my 3.0 core cost me 1000. – did not have intake and shroud / all the rest was there. Fan, alt, dizzy, tin, clutch, TOB, fly, some linkage but for FI etc

Upon total teardown thru bottom end / no catastrophic or even moderate damage or wear. Pistons will get rings. Heads will get refreshed.
Purchased: Matching number set of Webers from a 914-6 1200 bucks
PMO intake manifolds 300.00
Shroud from correct year 3.0 100
Linkage / working on that cluster of parts for a 914 6 conversion…..
Webcam grind to 20/21 and rehardending 900.00 / Dizzy will need recurve for 20/21 cam and Webers (200??)
Heads / new springs, guides, seats, rework to single plug stock 900
Rods balanced to .5g end to end and new bushings 300
Crank and case all checked out to spec at stock tolerances.
So at this point I am at around 5k for the engine rebuild prior to reassembly. I estimate around 2K in Pelican parts kits to upgrade tensioners from Turbo to oil feds, gasket kits, and several boxes of Kimtech wipes to fight back the tears when viewing my diminished bank statements……….. I will cheerfully pay 7 or eight grand all day long for a newly rebuilt 3.0 stem to stern. I have found a well experienced talent from the Vasek Polak race mechanic team / now in his own shop in LA that will rebuild for me with my "help" for under 1K..... He has done hundreds of SC motors for McKenna and VPR for decades. That may be the best 1k in this process / if spent, it is not going to explode and i will be all in around 8 grand. Something to think about.
Old 09-25-2016, 03:56 PM
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I am efinitely leaning toward building my own, but I gotta have a place to start...
IO guess Wayne's book and Bruce Anderson's book will tell me a good parts list?
Old 09-25-2016, 05:45 PM
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From 91429962993bk2914
 
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I agree and after reading both cover to cover, i was convinced that the "builtproof" 78 and later SC was the way to go for me. Best of luck in your search.


Cheers
Old 09-26-2016, 11:28 AM
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