Does the Wrightwood kit have the good seal???

^^^

I think so

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1488000730.JPG

V-R is embossed on the seal

On that vertical seam about the only thing you can do is clean it with acetone and gob some RTV on there. No pressure to deal with so it should work. Ghetto for sure but if it works who cares. Another ghetto trick - after the RMS is installed, clean the seam between the RMS circumference and the case with acetone and run a bead of RTV around it, smooth it out with your finger. Don't ask me how I know... RTV has it's advantages, just not inside an engine.

Wrightwood pack includes "ELRING" RMS

Well, my casing leak around the RMS and new red & black seal appear to be holding thru the first 500 km. So I thought an update would be in order.
1. Removed RMS and all loose sealer around casing seam from top to bottom of bell housing.
2. Parts cleaner and compressed air twice daily for two weeks.
3. Roughed up edges of casing halves top to bottom. Yes, protected the crank shaft end.
4. More parts cleaner, Wurth stuff in 5 gal cans.
5. Acetone and air. Again and again.
6. Loctite290 wicking sealer top to bottom. RMS internal cavity well taped off as the 290 really penetrates.
7. Cleaned off excess 290, roughed up seam, removed tape and more acetone and air.
8. Re-taped crank and seam in RMS cavity- didn't want any JB to bugger up the seating of th RMS.
9. More acetone and air.
10. Laid a bead of JB top to bottom.
11. Installed RMS. I did lay a small drop of 290 on the bottom seam where the casing halves meet the RMS.
12. Test fitted flywheel and ground off a couple of high JB point.
13. Put everything backtogether including my rebuilt trani

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1492051493.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1492053888.jpg

The JB is easy to grind off with a dremmel so not to damage the casing halves. So far so good.
Many thanks to all who helped out and especially to Henry Schmidt who put me on to the wicking 290.
Cheers,
Johan

Drove to Hershey Swap Meet and back, ~1,200 miles, and not a drop of oil. :)
Johan

That turned out great.

had the nearly same issue...

I also did apply sealant here:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1504685269.jpg

and here:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1504685243.jpg

Flo, this whole leak thing is so frustrating. I can tell you that my car is still dry after about 6,000 km. Hope you have the same success.
Cheers,
Johan

Personally i hate the brown flywheel seals.;-( The best seal for fly wheel is the black from Porsche and the Elring.Both have metal guide on the side.
I had and experience with the victor and other brown seals.The basically leak....nothing else..
this one

http://www.porscheoem.com/prodimg.ph...um=99911326440

and this one
http://img.justparts.com/eImage/9bee...c2ea7906fc.JPG

thanks!
I'll find out soon. Trans from overhaul is on its way back to me.

http://up.picr.de/30249389kg.jpg

Hi I am new here and seeking an information concerning RMS installation depth. I do understand with the new PTFE Porsche RMS, the installation depth is 13mm. With the Elring-Klinger RMS, is it the same 11mm? How about other OE RMS like Corteco? I have got RMS replaced a while ago with Porsche PTFE by a mechanic but it start leaking right after, not much but never stops. It is provably a bad workmanship. I am thinking about re-doing by myself and trying to make a insertion tool by myself. I am assuming all later RMS, either OEM or OE EMS installation depth is 13mm but want to be very sure.