Pelican Parts Forums - Rebuilding my '83 3.0

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What are those marks in that head? If there are any sharp edges I'd smooth them out, you don't want any potential hot spots.

Quote:

Originally Posted by boosted79 (Post 9482264)

What are those marks in that head? If there are any sharp edges I'd smooth them out, you don't want any potential hot spots.

At some point we think a screw got sucked in from the air box and danced around in there for a while. Ollies rebuilt my heads and blasted the surface. I guess it wouldn't hurt to blend those areas a little.

WooHoo!

So Excited to get my Cylinder and Piston back from EBS to start my 3.4L build.

I got the same 89.2cc reading on my heads as well :-)

Quote:

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG (Post 9482890)

WooHoo!

So Excited to get my Cylinder and Piston back from EBS to start my 3.4L build.

I got the same 89.2cc reading on my heads as well :-)

Cool Jim! Were all your heads the same? I had to grind a bit on a couple of mine to get the CC's right. Some of my valves were a bit more recessed than the others. Ollies did mine. What pistons are you using?

Yes, they were all within 0.10cc's, I chalked it up to my amateur measuring techniques, but I did measure each 3 times to make sure, boy was that fun :D

I got lucky Master CGarr did my heads and all were identical, amazing work.

I have custom ordered CP Pistons Wedge Type (aka Max Moritz Style) on there way.

Just a quick update on my build. After some head scratching, quadruple checking, and paranoia, I got my compression ratio all figured out. I did a dry run to check my piston to valve clearance after timing the cams, and everything is checking out fine. I've since stripped it back down to the short block and am getting the long block mantled with sealants this time. I'm shooting for the final cam timing later this week. Here's some pics I been snapping along the way.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1488902226.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1488902226.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1488902226.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1488902226.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1488902226.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1488902226.jpg

So I was double checking my cam sprocket alignment yesterday and came across a little issue with my right side cam.

We assembled and went to check end play and the cam had basically zero axial play when moved by hand. It would rotate however (weird.) We put a dial indicator on it and found the same result. Basically no movement. So we took it apart and lapped the front face of the aluminum flange a little to gain some clearance. We removed 2-3 thou, thinking it would match up with the end play of the left cam, which is .09mm (which is 2-3 thou). Before reassembling we examined the end of the cam where the flange rides and found a slight burr on the corner. To check this we placed the flange on the end of the cam and rotated it slightly to see if there was a high spot. There was. You can see that high spot as a small shiny line on the face of the flange, just above and to the left of the bottom hole. The burr was right on the arris of the cam, and that position is reflected on the mark on the flange.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489163624.jpg

We carefully lapped off the offending burr and reassembled. We also cleaned off some excess Curil T sealant that had oozed out of the gasket.

After the cam sprocket and nut/washer went back on we tested again. No end play detectable by trying to move the cam by hand. The left cam with .09mm play you can feel it click to and fro by pressing on the bolt head, then reaching in the cam housing and pushing back on one of the lobes. The axial play is apparent and correct on the left side.

So to test further on the right we remounted the dial ind. and using a small pry bar we tried to gently feel some axial movement. With the pry bar and gentle pressure we could get the cam to move about .09mm, but it felt like there was something mushy in there that we were compressing to get that movement. Like a gasket. We were pretty careful to get that gasket installed correctly, but have not removed it to check again. We will tomorrow.

We also measured the thinner part of the flange (purple arrows) and compared it to rebated portion at the end of the cam (length of shaft between green circle/red circle) and it was in spec: that portion of the shaft was .09 difference with the flange--same as the left side.

So, aside from there being some gasket material trapped in there, is there anything we're missing with regards to the axial end play? Are we correct that the difference between the surfaces illustrated below determine the axial play? My spec book shows axial play should be + 0.100mm to 0.350mm.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489164286.JPG

Maybe a ridge in the cam housing bores?

With out the end plate installed is the cam free to move?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tippy (Post 9505786)

Maybe a ridge in the cam housing bores?

If I'm correct in my understanding, if the flange/aluminum plate was held away from the end of the cam housing by means of a burr, then this would create more space for cam axial play.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trackrash (Post 9505975)

With out the end plate installed is the cam free to move?

Yes. It rotates smoothly in the cam housing without the plate installed. It also rotates with the plate installed, oddly enough. Although we only checked the latter with the chain installed, so not able to rotate it by hand more than a couple cm's or so due to the chain being connected, but without tensioner installed.

I'm still convinced we've got some gasket material, or maybe even some Curil T squeeze out in there taking up the play. The gasket is clearly much thicker than .09mm, and if it was truly full-thickness gasket in there, I think with the cam bolt tightened on, the cam would not rotate either. It must be something soft trapped in between given the springyness of our movement test with the pry bar.

I think I'm going to remove the plate, clean, reinstall without gasket/Curil, and see if we've got some nice clicky axial play. If we do, that will answer it.

It's just too simple an assembly to be something else I think.

Yesterday we got the cams timed and this little issue with axial play figured out. I removed the cover plate and cleaned it, then replaced it without sealant or the gasket. Axial play of .19mm. So I put the gasket back, carefully positioning it on the cover plate so it would not get pinched between the plate and the end shoulder of the camshaft. Reinstalled with a light coat of sealant (Curil) and we got axial play. Got my tensioners installed too. Now just kicking myself for not having ordered o rings for the tensioners. It will give me time to install the rockers while I wait.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489346421.jpg

Yesterday I decided to tackle the rockers. I'd been warned about the tedium of installing the RSR seals by my mentor, but I'm a pretty patient person and figured I could make it through. He's also got a knack for instilling confidence when he's not ribbing me about overanalyzing. First thing I did was test each shaft in its bore to make sure I wasn't actually fighting a ding in the bore or a wonky shaft. I had to clean up one bore with some 600 grit paper on a stick. It was just a very slight burr raised on the outside corner of one. No big deal.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489440113.jpg

Once I confirmed the fit of the shafts I installed the RSR seals to each one and then started the shaft in the bore until the seal came to rest against the bore. Then I gently wiggled the shaft and applied as little forward pressure as possible hoping the wiggling would ease the seal into the bore without damaging it. It didn't look like the seal was moving, but after maybe 15 -30 seconds of wiggling the shaft would suddenly start to move a bit, then go in smoothly and easily. Here's what that looked like: https://youtu.be/2doEuHV9L7Q

All the seals installed this way. None of them were cut. Maybe I just got lucky? Either way, I was pretty stoked about the outcome. I installed them dry and will drop some oil into the rocker holes. I also torqued them to 20 ft. lbs. after reading up on used cam housings. All the nuts grabbed hold right away and didn't require counterholding after a few pounds of torque. None of them spun in the bores while tightening up to 20 lbs.

Next up is adjusting the valves. Been less than a year since I bought my first 911, something I thought I would never be able to do. Now seeing this engine come together, with the prospect of driving a 911 with an engine I built, is just too cool. The only worry is, what if I made a major error and the engine seizes up? I guess nothing worth doing is without risk. But hopefully it will purr (roar) like a kitten (lion).

I got a real camera out last night and took some shots for the memory book.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489440702.JPG

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489440702.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489440702.JPG

Your mentor sounds like a guy who likes a good amount of lume.....

That last shot is cool!

Got the long block sealed up today. Looking forward to getting the fan and shroud on next. Bought the car April 14 last year. Hoping to have it drivable around the same time next month.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489978660.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489978690.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489978839.jpg

Beautiful. Nice work.

Looks great, you are going to have fun with that engine. :)