got a few questions * re-assemble
 

Starting to put my motor back together.... and i'm going to have a few questions.

1st, does this oil pressure sending unit/switch look correct- maybe they've changed the design ?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1491776687.JPG

2nd. I've got the Wrightwood Racing gasket kit. Any special tips on rear main seal install ? or treat it as you would any other seal ? Lube the sealing surface, or install dry ?

Hey T!

1. That is just another Brand, will work just fine, just torque it properly the first time, too much it will squeeze out the crush seal. Ask me how I know :eek:

2. Dry just make sure it goes in evenly and straight and allow .5MM to stick out. Engine oil on inner lip where the crank sits on.

Thanks Jim. We're going to have to get you on the payroll around here. Out of 100 views you're the only one able to help. ;)

I have had seals squirt right back out with oil or non Hardening sealer, not this application but rebuilding super chargers where I used a thin layer of permatex hardening sealer.


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And that's what i'm trying to avoid. ;) BTW, love those hi-flo valves you hooked me up with. Should make a big difference. :D


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1491851665.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d1c541b2ee.jpg


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whoops, hope i didn't let the cat outta-the-bag ;)

Hi Tori..my advice is not to use on your flywheel all brown seal ..they suck.Use only the one with black trim ...same goes for the front pulley seal no "Brown" only brown with black..
like these..
I could use the same words as Jim...ask me.h.....
http://img.pccreation.net/photos/201704102319544455.JPG

The other thing is the oil press.switch i hate these new types...recently i have found some on ebay original factory so i bought my self 4 ....for the future..

Ivan

Thanks Ivan, i'll shoot for the black and brown OEM seal then. The "genuine" OPS that our host sells looks just like this one. I may have to try my luck on that one.

Your Wrightwood Seals are just fine, key is how you put them in and how straight they are.

Dang it now you done it, that is another 300 hps on those hi flow valves :eek:

Okay,.... moving right along..... is there anything to know about removing the crank pulley ? I've tried an air gun, but it's not happening. Do i need to figure out a way to hold the crank so i can get some "ballz" on it? Bolt need heated to break loose lock tite ?

The best flywheel seals are made by Elring and happens to be in the Wrightwood Racing set..The V.R. brown will leak ..just my experience....

Ivan

Turns out the Wrightwood Racing set, (at least the full set i bought) does not include the Rear Main Seal. The one i did buy is Corteco. Opinion on that one ?

there are two gasket sets, engine and upper gasket set , these seals are not included on the upper set..
Corteco looks ok....but do not know it ....maybe Jim will or others..i stick to what worked for me in the past....

Tori - it is hard to imagine a 1/2" impact wrench with 100 psi behind it failing to break loose the bolt holding the crank pulley in place. No reason to use a thread locker here, though that doesn't mean one wasn't used if this motor has been apart previously.

Good point from Walt...Tori are you going the right direction with the air gun,just an idea....;-)

Ivan

Brother Tori,

If you can wait, I can over night the Flywheel Lock tool, you place it and jam it against a stud use a wood clamp to hold in place the use a breaker bar.

http://thumbs.ebaystatic.com/images/...0eT/s-l225.jpg

or do this:

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/i...sOFhqLg1Dv_C6w

Ok, thats good to know. I don't have a compressor in the front garage, so i have to use an air tank. I think it's only getting to about 100# so the gun isn't working to full potential. I'll borrow one of my co-workers new electric impact guns. That thing is a beast.

Good news, the electric impact worked.

Thanks for the offer Jim on the tool, i wouldn't have been able to use either of those at the moment as there is no flywheel on the car. ;)

My air has been down while I remodeled garage. Bought one of those electric 1/2 impacts at HF and I have to say it's bailed me out a few times, not bad for $40.

Yeah, they are pretty amazing. The one i used is a $500+ Milwaukee I'm tempted to pick one up.

Crank seal is now replaced, and not finding a torque speck for the crank pulley. I see the bolt head has serrations under the flange. Liquid thread lock needed ?

EDIT: Found a thread. 125#

Progress today.. getting the pistons back on, and mounting the cylinders. Question of the day,.... what sealant should i use for the copper cyl. to case gasket. Waynes book says to use the case sealer, but since i didn't split the case, i don't have any and wonder what else i can use.

Tori - sealant in this area ought not to be needed. Porsche doesn't, or at least didn't, specify it. But you can use any number of sealants - Yamha/Honda bond, or Hypalon. I like Hypalon or its kin because it is non-drying, and you don't have to spend a lot of time getting rid of it when you have to rebuild again. I'd not consider silicone.

Just saw this thread... do folks consider using an impact wrench on the crank "safe?"

I ask, as I left the pulley on when I took the crankshaft off, and now trying to get the pulley off...

Have access to impact wrenches, but have images of the crank shattering with use of it as its out of the case...

Safe? Or put it back in the case, attach flywheel/brace it, and use torque wrench?

Torque wrenches are never to be used for breaking torque.

Impact that bisch off there. Mine took a 3/4" impact the 1st time. 1/2" wasn't happening.

2nd time, my Harbor Freight 1/2" electric impact worked fine.

Put a torch on the bolt and bring up the temperature
Impact off.
Bruce

Thanks guys.

Meant to say breaker bar, not torque wrench.

Will heat and use impact. Have air and electric. Just didnt want to shatter anything or bend the crank...

Bo

Bo
Maybe, just maybe, if a guy had the cast crank used on the Ts early on, this might be something to worry about? Though I don't think so. No way you could bend, much less shatter, a forged crank with an impact gun. No reason not to use one absent special circumstances. Maybe a rusted crank, where you might just twist the head off of the bolt? But why would you be dealing with such a crank anyway.

Next time (and when reassembling the engine), take the pulley off before splitting the case, and put it back on after you put the crank in the case and button the case up, or wait until you are ready to time the cams.

Yep, novice mistake... Never thought to take it off...

Thanks for your help.

Bo