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Tori's Avatar
 
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got a few questions * re-assemble

Starting to put my motor back together.... and i'm going to have a few questions.

1st, does this oil pressure sending unit/switch look correct- maybe they've changed the design ?


2nd. I've got the Wrightwood Racing gasket kit. Any special tips on rear main seal install ? or treat it as you would any other seal ? Lube the sealing surface, or install dry ?

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Old 04-09-2017, 02:26 PM
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Hey T!

1. That is just another Brand, will work just fine, just torque it properly the first time, too much it will squeeze out the crush seal. Ask me how I know

2. Dry just make sure it goes in evenly and straight and allow .5MM to stick out. Engine oil on inner lip where the crank sits on.
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Old 04-10-2017, 12:26 AM
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Thanks Jim. We're going to have to get you on the payroll around here. Out of 100 views you're the only one able to help.
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Old 04-10-2017, 07:18 AM
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I have had seals squirt right back out with oil or non Hardening sealer, not this application but rebuilding super chargers where I used a thin layer of permatex hardening sealer.


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Old 04-10-2017, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgarr View Post
I have had seals squirt right back out with oil or non Hardening sealer, not this application but rebuilding super chargers where I used a thin layer of permatex hardening sealer.


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And that's what i'm trying to avoid. BTW, love those hi-flo valves you hooked me up with. Should make a big difference.


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Old 04-10-2017, 11:14 AM
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Old 04-10-2017, 11:30 AM
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whoops, hope i didn't let the cat outta-the-bag
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Old 04-10-2017, 11:43 AM
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Hi Tori..my advice is not to use on your flywheel all brown seal ..they suck.Use only the one with black trim ...same goes for the front pulley seal no "Brown" only brown with black..
like these..
I could use the same words as Jim...ask me.h.....


The other thing is the oil press.switch i hate these new types...recently i have found some on ebay original factory so i bought my self 4 ....for the future..

Ivan

Last edited by proporsche; 04-10-2017 at 01:49 PM..
Old 04-10-2017, 01:22 PM
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Thanks Ivan, i'll shoot for the black and brown OEM seal then. The "genuine" OPS that our host sells looks just like this one. I may have to try my luck on that one.
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Old 04-10-2017, 03:11 PM
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Your Wrightwood Seals are just fine, key is how you put them in and how straight they are.

Dang it now you done it, that is another 300 hps on those hi flow valves
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Old 04-10-2017, 03:54 PM
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Okay,.... moving right along..... is there anything to know about removing the crank pulley ? I've tried an air gun, but it's not happening. Do i need to figure out a way to hold the crank so i can get some "ballz" on it? Bolt need heated to break loose lock tite ?
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Old 04-10-2017, 06:17 PM
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The best flywheel seals are made by Elring and happens to be in the Wrightwood Racing set..The V.R. brown will leak ..just my experience....

Ivan
Old 04-10-2017, 10:58 PM
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Turns out the Wrightwood Racing set, (at least the full set i bought) does not include the Rear Main Seal. The one i did buy is Corteco. Opinion on that one ?
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Old 04-10-2017, 11:01 PM
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there are two gasket sets, engine and upper gasket set , these seals are not included on the upper set..
Corteco looks ok....but do not know it ....maybe Jim will or others..i stick to what worked for me in the past....
Old 04-10-2017, 11:14 PM
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Tori - it is hard to imagine a 1/2" impact wrench with 100 psi behind it failing to break loose the bolt holding the crank pulley in place. No reason to use a thread locker here, though that doesn't mean one wasn't used if this motor has been apart previously.
Old 04-11-2017, 08:38 PM
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Good point from Walt...Tori are you going the right direction with the air gun,just an idea....;-)

Ivan
Old 04-11-2017, 10:10 PM
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Brother Tori,

If you can wait, I can over night the Flywheel Lock tool, you place it and jam it against a stud use a wood clamp to hold in place the use a breaker bar.



or do this:

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Old 04-11-2017, 10:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walt Fricke View Post
Tori - it is hard to imagine a 1/2" impact wrench with 100 psi behind it failing to break loose the bolt holding the crank pulley in place. No reason to use a thread locker here, though that doesn't mean one wasn't used if this motor has been apart previously.
Ok, thats good to know. I don't have a compressor in the front garage, so i have to use an air tank. I think it's only getting to about 100# so the gun isn't working to full potential. I'll borrow one of my co-workers new electric impact guns. That thing is a beast.
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Old 04-12-2017, 07:52 AM
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Good news, the electric impact worked.

Thanks for the offer Jim on the tool, i wouldn't have been able to use either of those at the moment as there is no flywheel on the car.
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Old 04-13-2017, 10:53 AM
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My air has been down while I remodeled garage. Bought one of those electric 1/2 impacts at HF and I have to say it's bailed me out a few times, not bad for $40.

Old 04-13-2017, 12:35 PM
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