Quote:
Originally Posted by toddu
I rebuilt the carbs over the winter. Car was running fantastic, sat about 2 weeks and just didn't seem right next time I drove it. Fuel in bowls was pretty dirty and discovered rain hats don't seal well.
Would anything else cause no perceivable change in idle loosening idle jet holder (assuming o-ring is ok, I'll check)? Air bleed adjustment?
Just pull the plug wires off 1 at a time? Exhaust being hot on that cylinder led me to believe it must be firing.
Todd
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Assuming an engine produces 180 hp., one would assume each cylinder in a healthy engine contributes 30 hp. (6x30= 180).
An engine down on compression, or A/F mixture, or air volume will produce less; e.g. a holed piston will have zero compression and produce/contribute zero power. Equal power should occur at all engine speeds, from idle to max. rpm.
Shorting out a cylinder at a time (by momentarily disconnecting or grounding a spark plug wire) will cause that cylinder from contributing - the engine rpm will drop. Same effect by momentarily disconnecting the signal to the fuel injector.
Repeat this on all 6 cylinders. Engine rpm should drop equally. The cylinder that doesn't produce an equal RPM drop isn't contributing even though it's firing (trying). Pinpoint that cylinder to inspect (compression, leakdown test, carb and jet passages, injector, vacuum leaks, etc.).