When you say the compressor is working, I assume that means you can see it turning when on, versus just the clutch freewheeling when off?
If the compressor is indeed turning, the only way to diagnose it is to hook up gauges and get pressures. Your low side pressure should be between 20 and 40 psi, and high side should be between 150-220 psi, depending upon outside air temp. Without getting pressures, anything else is a shot in the dark. If you don't have gauges, take it to an a/c shop. It literally takes 60 seconds to hook up the gauges and get pressures, so they should do this for a very minimal charge.
A quick and dirty check without gauges is to touch the high and low side lines when the system is running. They're aluminum tubes running along the engine compartment by the driver's side fender. The fatter one is the low side and it should be cool-cold and the thin one is high side and should be warm-hot. If they're both the same as outside air temp when running, either the compressor is not turning or it's shot, or the expansion valve is bad (high side should still be hot if bad expansion valve). If they are cold/hot, then your blender door may be the culprit. Check to make sure the vacuum hose leading the the vacuum resevoir bottle behind the battery under the windshield is hooked up. This line controls the blender door. My 84 had this disconnected when I bought it and would blow cold. When I reconnected it, everything was fine.
Good luck.
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