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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: oceanside
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speedo stopped working

My 83 533 speedo has given up after an intermittent stint of half on half off. I hear there is some kind of gear to be replaced but have not seen a provider/merchant available anywhere. I'm sure someone has a fix whether factory or not.

Old 04-21-2003, 05:08 PM
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I will check my manual and get back to you. I just saw your complete dash at used BMW parts place in Toronto, The is probably one near you.
Old 04-22-2003, 06:38 PM
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Okay, I checked my references, there is a sending modual in your differential, wires leading to terminal block and then to the fuse box then to the dash. Any of these connections could be screwed. There are two batteries on the instruments which could be long dead. If they split they could damage the speedo circut. They should be replaced every 6 years or so. They are soildered on. If the car was stored for a long period they may have done this. Apparently other issues should crop up, heat gauge, and tach may act oddly, or trouble lights not work. An ommeter will check each component, and wire to elimnate each working component. Any work even in the interior could have cut the wiring. What was the last thing you did before the speedo went down?
Old 04-22-2003, 08:53 PM
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I would check the connections to the sender first. My speedo stopped working a while back and I looked at the sender in the back of the differential. Looks like a rock or something came up and hit the wiring harness, ripping the wires out of it. Just some crimping and it worked as good as new.
Old 04-23-2003, 09:10 AM
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I do nothing to my bmw s,....hell they'd survive in the saudi desert and all seeing as how there is that tool kit in back and all.
I will check sending units. On the 533 it came and went,...therefore possibly the gear (I have read about this on this car w/age) but on my 325i I suspect something different. Man,..with a car with complete service history and locally owned I am having a hell of a time sorting it out. Right window I thought was going to be an easy fix it now clicking and motor has been looked at. Heavy valve noises,.......mad idling,......this thing might be for sale before long.
Old 04-28-2003, 04:36 PM
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Too fast for my little brain. You have a 325I with the same speedo problem??? If so it would probably be Aliens. They attack speedo's so we will get speeding tickets and stay off the roads at night. Intermitent is a sure sign of a short or a defective sending unit. Idiling, Oxygen sensor, or ECU, or timming, map sensor are the list in order. Jared might have other thoughts. Valve noise, every 30,000 to 50,000 miles a overhead cam engine without hydralic lifters should be adjusted to compesate for cam wear. The cam should be replaced after as little as 100,000 miles. Cam and cylinder wall and piston ring wear are reduced by new oil and filters often. The cam has more stress than any other part in the engine. Do you smell odors from the cat or gas at the rear pipe?
Old 04-30-2003, 10:38 AM
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I believe that the only things that would affect the speedo operation would be the speedo sender in the rear of the diff, the wiring that carries the impulse to the sppedo and the speedo itself. There's really not much to how the whole system works. What i would do is first check the continuity from the sender to the speedo, then the sender and lastly the speedo. Usually this is just a sender.

Golden,

the issues with your 325 should be easily fixed with just a little elbow grease. As for the valve noises, these cars by nature have a noisy valvetrain due to the fact that they still used mechanical lifters as opposed to the later hydraulic ones. Therefore, even if the valves are properly adjusted, there will still be some valve noise. Your car should sound like a finely tuned sewing machine with the valves properly adjusted. I'd be worried if there was no noise at all. This would indicate that the valve clearances are too tight and you will have a burned valve or worse coming your way.

As for the idle, this is propbably the most common problem with these cars. There a re a few different things that affect the operation of the idle.

1. Idle control valve (ICV)- this valve is used to allow a certian amount of air past the throttle butterfly and keep the engine idling smooth. Over time it can become blocked with engine crud and stick open or closed.

2. Throttle position Switch (TPS) - This switch controls the operation of the IVC, many times these can go out of adjustment, causing a high or fluctuating idle.

3. Vacuum Leaks- Any cracked or leaking vacuum connection in the system can cause a high or fluctuating idle. You will want to check all vacuum hoses for leaks and replace as needed. I have seen cars run like new just by replacing hoses.
Old 04-30-2003, 10:50 AM
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when I chec vac,...I held my hand over intake at moderate rpm and watched all tubing coil in response. A bit rudimentary but works for me. Where did I read something about cleaning the 02 sensor by un hooking something?? It seems the more I do the more it stays the same.
Signed,..
frustrated,..but still enjoying this beast.
Old 04-30-2003, 04:36 PM
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One other thing, it is quite possible that you may also have a bad coolant temperature sensor. Ove time these sensors can build up internal resistance and fail. Prior to the O2 sensor heating up, this sensor is used in part to control the overall mixture of the car.
Old 05-02-2003, 11:33 AM
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bad stalling today and lots of black smoke from the tailpipe upon full throttle. Does a fuel pressure regulator exhihibit this? It has been very intermittent but now is almost undrivable considering the 2500 rpm as you approch a stop sign.
Old 05-02-2003, 06:41 PM
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Black smoke is oil, not fuel. Valve guide seal broken ring, engine overhall for sure . If the smoke is coming from the pipe and not oil burning on the pipe. It is hard to believe the conversation started with a screwed speedo, and valve clatter on another. Sounds like you'llb edriving the 533 for awhile. Sorry to hear your greaf.

Old 05-02-2003, 07:00 PM
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