Removing Servo Brakes - Brake Line Re-Routing - U Done it?

[santorini]

i have had some hassles lately with super sketchy braking and let's just say i'm not a fan of this complicated and dangerous servo assist setup!!

This guy removes it completely on a r1150 :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7xZMewBazMI

I want to keep it simple by just re-Routing the brake lines to connect them directly to the calipers from the brake levers and by-pass this BS servo system completely.

are the connections the same as in this video? Have you done this with any success?

I want normal brakes!!

[sgoodwin]

Use the search function here, I know others have done it. I believe the speedo & rear brake light are integrated into that mess also. I removed mine years ago as I also wanted real brakes instead of the mushy excuse it came with but mine is a '99 & was much simpler to remove. After a couple of very scary episodes caused by the abs I was done with it & went for the direct connection to the master cylinders. All told I removed around 15lbs, most of it under the tank. It made a difference in handling as I was turning into corners early after removal & I was amazed how well the brakes really were afterwards & would never go back to abs on this machine. Good luck with your absectomy.

[cele0001]

Hydraulic connections are the same as on the video.
I didn't try to save the old hard lines. Cut them and get them out of the bike.

EDIT: On my Rockster, (which should be the same front as the S) I noticed that the front line was getting a little tight on a full left turn after the delete, so I made a small extender to move the front junction about an inch forward. If you have questions I will post the picture.


DO NOT CUT THE HARNESS!!!

Here is the electrical "delete"

On Two Wheels: ABS removal : epilogue (hopefully)

It shouldnt take you more than 3 hours to complete the job.
Take the blue relay out and that will take care of one light. The other light will stay on.
You can take the bulb out or put some electrical tape over. Your choice.
Brakes are much better without it.

Of course you will die because of no ABS.

[tic105]

I've done this on two 2004 R1100S bikes I've owned. Not too bad and I love the results. I should have recorded the steps because the R1100S is a bit different than what I found on the web and I looked at everything I could find.
Feel free to PM me with any questions.
Tom

[PFFOG]

Funny, I wish I could put the power of the servo brakes on the F800GS

[Cruzer]

This is the first bike with ABS owned.
Found them a challenge to get used to and they did work fine, just my
inexperience. I find them highly effective and would be loath to remove them.
S***** is just an opinion and Chris Harris does have many, bless him. Does limit
riding the dirt at a fast clip though these aren't dual sports and prefer hardback.
I learned to ride gravel on a Burman 650 'cause I lived on them. It does have a very low CG despite it's 625lbs. I'm sure I've saved my bacon a few times with the ABS. Where it's touchy is at very slow speeds.It's great when a flock of Canada geese appears on the verge taking to the air on a collision course and you're doing more than a ton.
How did the battery work out for you?

[brentw1]

I find if they are properly set up they work fine,
granted they are more complicated than the later system.
and removing them requires some rewiring etc,
easier just to fix them.

[signit98]

I removed the ABS and never looked back.

[santorini]

battery didn't work - only after buying did i read further about fault codes and sounds like it wasn't a 'low battery' situation at all. oh well i have a new Exide Gel battery now

PFFOG - wanna buy my old servo ? lol

So my main question is - Hydraulics connections - Do I need to buy anything? or can I literally just disconnect the hoses (similar to the video) and then reconnect them directly to caliper lines using existing parts?

I agree that web useful for info (and this forum of course is awesome!!) haha but I live in Poland (and don't speak the language) so buying little parts can be a pain in the ass.

re: Electrical / Pump Delete - I was planning on not even touching that at all. just leave it in place so the brake lights still work.

I park the bike on the street… and my be repairing it there... so looking for shortest, easiest repair options

I'm itching to cruise around Europe

[Cruzer]

Sell the bike.
Get a Honda. A small one.
Then tour Europe.

[santorini]

lol you read my mind

I was thinking CBR125

[Cruzer]

S'about right. 250's a lean machine too....and FUN!!!

[santorini]

actually the 250 looks cool never drove one though. the ninja 250 i had was great fun for sure though

[brentw1]

vtr250
yes you should read the fault codes, are both of the tail lamp bulbs good

[cele0001]

Originally Posted by santorini

So my main question is - Hydraulics connections - Do I need to buy anything? or can I literally just disconnect the hoses (similar to the video) and then reconnect them directly to caliper lines using existing parts?

You dont need to buy anything. Yes, just like the video. Turn the piece upside down and bolt the lines.

I would separate and throw away the hydraulic portion but I guess you can leave it. I am not sure if servo motor would run and cause issues. You can tell us.

[santorini]

yah the tail light / brake lights appear to be working good

i may remove hydraulics eventually, but looking for a quick fix now to get her running and on the road quick

[santorini]

btw - what Brake Fluid you boys recommend? will any DOT4 be suitable?

[santorini]

so I completed the surgery!! (mostly)

per the video - I simply disconnected the front brake lines at the junxion and reconnect the master cylinder line directly to the line going the callipers.

I also pulled the blue fuse (in the right side fuse box) to stop the Brake Failure light flashing.

I haven't had time to bleed the front brakes yet (haha I know I know) but the bike drives amazing with great braking feel and everything working well.

The rear brake is still connected to the servo, but it works normally and everything good.

3 Tips:

1) You don't have to remove the gas tank, only pull it back an inch or 2 to give enough space to disconnect the brake lines

2) Get a good hacksaw to cut the bracket that holds the front brake lines. Mine took a few minutes of swearing and vigorous sawing

3) if you leave the old brake lines in place (going to the servo)… they are high pressure! I wrapped them off with plastic bags and elastic, and went to test setup with key on and pull brake - Brake fluid jetted right through! haha

Easy fix - Grab a beer bottle (i used a small juice bottle), put the lower brake line in it, and squeeze and hold brake handle until the servo unit pumps itself dry.

Overall very satisfied with the job so far!! I just need to get a custom line for the rear brake to connect master cylinder directly to brake line leading to callipers, and of course bleed everything

thanks for all the tips guys!!

[cele0001]

Are you sure you need a custom line?

[sgoodwin]

Probably not, I just used a non-abs line & it hooked up to the steel line off the rear master.