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Forth and Back, TOR 2024(not)
This year's trip report will be a little different than previous reports. There will be more personal info because it affected the ride this year.
But to start, here is the token 'S' content. After 24 years and 108,000 miles I sold my 'S' in June 2024. Loved the bike but I just didn't use it anymore. Almost cried when the new owner rode away from my shop. There it is, all the 'S' info in this report so you can stop here if you are only looking for 'S' content. This was going to be the 10th trip riding with Ralf(Beekeeper). I usually start thinking of next year's route before the current trip is done. The plan was to meet Ralf at Convict Lake in California, ride to the TOR(Top of the Rockies Rallye), drop south into New Mexico and circle back north to my house. The planned route- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...55aab347_h.jpg In January I secured the necessary camping reservations. By march I had the Africa Twin ready and packed. I was scheduled for a trial implant of a nerve stimulator to see if it would help with my long term back pain. The trial was successful so on the last day of April a permanent device was placed in my lower back. Totally unrelated to the implant, four days later I found myself in an ER and diagnosed with Stage IV kidney cancer. I spent 2.5 weeks laying around the house feeling like a kicked dog while waiting for the surgery to remove my kidney. The kidney came out okay but there were complications that meant I couldn't sit up or get out of my hospital bed. A week later I developed a clot in my right leg. After 17 days I went home with a feeding tube, 25 lbs. lighter and totally out of shape. I started the process of rebuilding myself and hoping we could still do the trip. It soon became apparent the July trip was off and it really pained me to cancel all our reservations. Ralf and I started thinking a September trip would work. I made some more reservations but I started feeling really apprehensive about going to Colorado. With only three weeks between my cancer treatments starting in Aug. Allowing some time to recover from treatment and be back for blood work a few days before my next treatment meant we had around 14 days to travel. At this point I didn't know what the side effect of treatment would for me. Turns out several days of fatigue and trouble staying warm were in my future. Over dinner one night my wife asked if there was some reason we had to go to Colorado and the answer was no. I checked with Ralf and started laying out a route along the north edge of WA, the west edge of ID and then into OR and back home. Suddenly the apprehension was gone and I was looking forward to the trip. The route would allow me to get back home in a day if things were not working out. This was the planned 11 day route- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...3f082595_h.jpg My second treatment was Sept. 4th, Ralf arrived 6th and we took off on the 8th. Day 1-Seattle to Conconully State Park, WA-246 miles Packed and ready to go- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...a4b64eff_h.jpg At our first gas stop at Skykomish, WA. Some Model A Fords were travelling too. Ralf being x-military was allowed to sign the green one- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...89e4aa55_h.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...7329e314_h.jpg A small forest road I love near Stevens Pass- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...1e71d4ef_h.jpg I told Ralf there was no reason to water the tree, it was already dead- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...50574e2d_h.jpg |
Day 1-continued
Since Ralf is German, we had to stop in Leavenworth, WA for snacks. Turns out the owner has an old red/white BMW R100 PD- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...70a4f406_h.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...28fee504_h.jpg Lunch stop at Waterville City Park- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...9e1d92a9_h.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...9edfd77a_h.jpg I have checked out Conconully State Park a couple times but it was always full. When we got there the wildlife outnumbered the campers. Nice hot shower at the end of the day- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...60c1b941_h.jpg |
Day 2-Conconully to Republic, WA-198 miles
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...26146107_h.jpg In the morning the campground was still virtually empty. It was nice and warm but we would encounter smoking skies from wildfires. Each year we seem to have this problem somewhere on the trip. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...67171cce_h.jpg I have camped near Grand Coulee Dam many times in the 70s and 80s. Tried most of the roads in that area but I just found the Columbia River Rd. heading south from Okanogan past Omak Lake then along the river. Research shows it was first paved in 2017. Beautiful 40 mile drive and only saw three cars. I want to go back when it isn't smoky- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...8a3a3740_h.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...c434e571_h.jpg Crop circles and fresh water fish farms are the only thing going on along the road- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...32c67e07_h.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...dc46d92d_h.jpg Lunch time in Grand Coulee and I remembered a restaurant as you are leaving town headed east. Of course I had to explain to Ralf it was 40 years ago when I ate there with my wife. Turns out there is still a restaurant at the location but the style of food has changed. Price seemed a little high until we saw the size of the meals. We had enough for lunch and then dinner that night- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...39635f32_h.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...0ea1a893_h.jpg Of course the mandatory carved wood resin tables- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e196ce54_h.jpg |
Day 2-continued
The whole reason we looped south through Grand Coulee was to ride the road down to the Keller Ferry then across Lake Roosevelt- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e062b75d_h.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...b2b1d948_h.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...4a795b00_h.jpg Heading back west on Manilla Creek Rd. the scorched forest started a few miles after our turn off of Hwy 21- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...d87086b0_h.jpg Buffalo Lake Rd. goes north from Manilla Creek Rd. to Nespelem then Cache Creek Rd. east back over to Hwy 21 and north along Sanpoil River to Republic. Poor us, another deserted campground- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...bd0ff76e_h.jpg After a hot shower it was time to do some laundry and watch the sunset- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...8f845194_h.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...abad89e7_h.jpg |
Nice Rick! Glad you are ok!!
Cheers |
What a pleasant suprise
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Day 3-Republic to Boundary Dam, WA-210 miles
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...d511806f_h.jpg Morning cloudy skies- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...b5e9f9d1_h.jpg While stuff was drying out I went for a short walk. I tried to imagine what the fair grounds are like when the rodeo is in town- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...813cbfc5_h.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...9aae103d_h.jpg We started the morning going west on Hwy 20 almost back to where day two began. I real like the Havillah Road from Tonasket to Chesaw past Sitzmark Ski Hill. Just outside Tonasket is the Enlightment Stupa which reminded me of 'The Garden of a 1,000 Buddas' we saw on the 2022 trip- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...0a338589_h.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...d11508c7_h.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...f28093a5_h.jpg |
Day 3-continued
East of Chesaw the Oroville-Toroda Rd. passes a chain of lakes on Beaver Creek. Just a lovely ride on a road where you see more motorcycles then cars- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...396a773a_h.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...f14df651_h.jpg A flower I found at Beth Lake picnic area and planted on the Norden- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...fe292e5a_h.jpg Near Toroda I forgot to show Ralf the Ranald MacDonald grave. The smallest State Park in WA. He was a sailor from WA that spent time in Japan. I don't fully understand but Japanese tourists visit the site and leave trinkets. Maybe next year. We kept heading east until we hit Hwy 395 then south. Before Kettle Falls we took Northport Flat Creek Rd. up the west side of the Columbia River- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...d2d78af1_h.jpg Going NE from Northport almost to Canada then over the mountains to Boundary Dam. The road has been okay in the past but it got a little dusty and rough around the top where an active logging operation had chewed it up, this was the good part- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...1456253f_h.jpg At last Boundary Dam Campground. A very nice quiet place in September- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...a9cdbbcb_h.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...7b783551_h.jpg Across the the dam from the campground is the viewing platform which is really cool in the spring when they spill water to be ready for the snow runoff. Unfortunately it is a 45 minute ride to get there so not worth it except in spring- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...bbcc7b54_h.jpg |
Before I go further I realized I forgot this year's theme song. "Tainted Love" by Soft Cell
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XZVpR3Pk-r8 It speaks to my relationship with motorcycles, Tainted Love. Day 4-Boundry to Hells Gate State Park, Lewiston, ID-248 miles https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...a81033b0_h.jpg Crossed the Pend Orville River at the Ione bridge then rode along the river on the east side using the LeClerc Rd. down to Newport. Nothing of real interest the rest of the cool and rainy day. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...63de8869_h.jpg Arriving at the nights campground we were greeted by the locals- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...f2db5b44_h.jpg My wife called that night to ask how I was doing with the temperature regulation side effect of my cancer treatment. Well, in my 20º F. rated sleeping bag wearing my clothes, sweatshirt and down jacket I felt cold. After all it was 60º F. outside the tent. |
Nice report. Thanks for posting.
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Day 5-Hells Gate to Copperfield CG, OR-248 miles
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...2995a04f_h.jpg The famous Anatone, WA sign as we headed south on Hwy 129/3. The numbers on that sign have not changed in a long time. I have a photo from 2010 and they were the same then- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...aee69b3e_h.jpg Riding down Rattlesnake Grade is one of my favorites- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...ae821a20_h.jpg Because the temperature was kind of cool we stopped for lunch at Boggan's Oasis on the Grande Ronde River. The climb up from the river is also fun- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...237b450d_h.jpg The weather was looking the same as yesterday as we left Enterprise, OR. Cloudy with rain but never hard enough to make us stop and put on rainsuits. Bad choice as my jacket was kind of wet but not soaked and I was cold when we came down out of the mountains- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...52a03a91_h.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...59b0b805_h.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...a7239a2b_h.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...b8956d92_h.jpg |
Day 5-continued
As we turned east on Hwy 86 the sky cleared, the sun hit us and it warmed up. That only lasted about five mile as we caught up with the storm we had been riding through in the mountains- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...6525cfd2_h.jpg We covered the bikes and waited out the rain- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...4a93e58b_h.jpg We were rewarded with a rainbow and then the sun hit us a short time later- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...ac105b40_h.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...2c8d3585_h.jpg |
Green Giants
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My favorite type of day. Misty and a little drizzle...
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Yes, the type of day so common in Moab.
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Damn RB, you were only about a 1/2 hour away from my new place when you guys went through Nelway.......forshame you didn't call!
Cheers |
I can feel the heat and the cool of the rain in your pictures. Another epic trip.
Really glad you're here to tell the tale. |
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Day 6-Copperfield
The only miles today were walking. This was the half way point of the trip so I had booked us in for three nights. When I was here in 2023 with my wife we found some cool rock formations so a walk was on today's schedule. Only used the bikes to go get food. Crossing the bridge east into another state. Oddly the time zone changes a few miles west of the Snake River but my phone would keep changing time based on where it was getting its cell signal- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...26856998_h.jpg Very relaxed rules on the bridge. People will have lawn chairs, coolers and bait buckets blocking one lane of traffic- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...7516cc50_h.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...3b491352_h.jpg Going west- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...f384f9c5_h.jpg Basalt columns, I think about getting some for the yard but too much work moving them from the truck to a good location- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...92e57855_h.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...0e011c88_h.jpg Oxbow Dam, the water is piped through the hill to the generators- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...0d0682c7_h.jpg A small Omamori(amulet) charm for safe travels my brother-in-law bought for me at a temple in Japan- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...03923502_h.jpg |
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Day 7-Copperfield to Hells Canyon Dam then back-60 miles
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...37f471e8_h.jpg I had driven downstream to the dam sometime in the 70s and then rode a jet boat in the 90s from Lewiston. In 2023 I told a friend about the road and he came back raving about the scenery. So I decided Ralf and I should check it out. The scenery is indeed dramatic- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...9fb66805_h.jpg This goat ran across the road and then did his amazingly effortless climb up the mountain- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...73856e19_h.jpg The view downriver toward Lewiston from atop the dam- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...4d7e59f7_h.jpg Local resident at the Visitor Center- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...99e3278a_h.jpg The viewing deck where you can watch the tour boats come and go- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...67ef9027_h.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...879628a5_h.jpg |
Day 7-continued
Ralf and I talked to some other bikers and they mentioned an old train tunnel on the west side of the river north of Copperfield. I have been up that road to Homestead a couple times but didn't remember the tunnel. Ralf wanted to see it so off we went- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...cbefd489_h.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...f32fcb11_h.jpg What would Freud say?- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...d33b8076_h.jpg Back at camp it was a nice afternoon so time for another walk. Even four months after my kidney was removed I was still tired after a three mile walk. More rock columns- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...7d61a14c_h.jpg The gnat were in full flight late in the day. They only flew above certain plants forming clouds- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...063985cc_h.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...41a4c57e_h.jpg I checked the weather forecast and rain was in the future along with cooler temperatures. I had booked us a campsite for two nights just east of Portland in the Columbia Gorge. The report predicted 50s and rain. I decided to cut the trip short and head toward home instead of sitting in a cold tent for two days. We were treated to another lovely sunset- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...c015f598_h.jpg |
The picture of the gnats is the closest representation of the view my right eye gave me from within last October when I had a problem with my cataract surgery.
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Day 8-Copperfield to X-230 miles
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...f68b602e_h.jpg A guest on my tent as we packed up in the morning- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...4fa76a68_h.jpg The weather looked iffy but I don't remember when we put on rain suits- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e5d75b2d_h.jpg We had been riding in the rain so a stop was in order for breakfast in Baker City, OR- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...5c00dd70_h.jpg As we headed west from North Power up over the Little Alps area and Anthony Lakes, the temperature dropped to around 40ºF. and we were in rain again- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...a03824e7_h.jpg As we started down the west side it warmed up and the rain stopped- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...5028e642_h.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...21c4b1f4_h.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...d5808e61_h.jpg There was a much needed gas station in Ukiah, OR then we headed toward Condon, OR- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...5b08933c_h.jpg |
Day 8-continued
We were traveling on Hwy 206 between Heppner and Condon, OR. on a flat dry road. About ten minute after this photo was taken the trip took a major twist- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...a726dd80_h.jpg The Africa Twin had a wobble then went into a violent head shake. In a heartbeat I thought 'This isn't going to be good'. I woke up on the side to the road and knew it wasn't good. My helmet was full of gravel and Ralf who had been following me was pretty freaked out because he thought I was dead. I could see both hands were damaged and could feel my left leg was not normal- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...77876971_h.jpg To add to Ralf's alarm there wasn't any cell coverage and my SPOT device no longer worked to send an SOS. A local couple came along in a truck, covered me with a blanket and then drove back up the road to an area that had a cell signal to call for help. EMTs arrived and went to work getting me ready to be airlifted to Kadlec Hospital in Richland, WA. During this time Ralf was collecting all my stuff and loading it in the couple's truck to be picked up later. Even though I was awake and talking, my awareness only took in things about two feet in front of me. I was loaded into an ambulance for a move to a spot where the helicopter could land. Once we were in the air, the drugs were kicking in and I complained that I was on a helicopter ride but couldn't see anything. The flight nurse said my phone was above my head and would I like him to take some pictures. Yes, please. Crop circles and the Columbia River- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...0d09f8db_h.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...0de194ea_h.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...5bcf5840_h.jpg After two weeks at Kadlec I had an ambulance ride back to Seattle. My new casts and neck collar at Kaiser Bellevue Clinic- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...86977734_h.jpg It appears the Honda jumped up and then came down on its head. With all the damage it was totaled- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...6ebd067e_h.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...0aa59d93_h.jpg Because I was non-weight bearing on three limbs I spent three months at Redmond Rehab unable to walk. I survived rehab and all the horrible food. I came home in the beginning of December. I only missed one cancer treatment because of the accident and received good news in January when a new scan shows the cancer nodules in my lungs are shrinking and there were no new growths. I still wear a fracture boot and I am working with PT/OT. Five months post crash and it is a slow recovery but I am still here. Thanks for following along with me on life's trip- https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...3beed4c7_h.jpg |
It wasn't one of the better moments of my life...
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Gotta say, RBMann, that you're looking a lot better than the bike. Glad you made it.
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Damn, wasn't expecting that ending. Glad you're recovering. Any idea what caused the wobble/head shake?
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Can only say, regardless of how safe you are, sometimes things just happen... I keep thinking how deserted that road is, and if that couple hadn't coincidentally come by how long the wait might have been... Hope you make it to TOR this year.
I do like the cane. |
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I wish I knew the answer to that question. My best guess is the way I had it loaded but this is not the first trip on the bike(53,000 miles). Was there something in the road I hit, a wind gust or a pavement irregularity. I don't know. In three photos I received from my insurance company there is a finger pointing to a nick in the front rim. Did I hit something? I can't even trust my memory which ends when the shake went violent. In my memory I see the front wheel wobble but you can't see the wheel when you are sitting on the bike. Ralf has a GoPro video which he has only watched once and said it was really difficult for him. I am currently receiving Mental Health counseling for the accident and cancer. I asked if I should watch the video to hopefully get some answers. I didn't get a yes or no from them. They suggested my brain might have a reason it wiped the memory. Watching the video might recall thing better left forgotten. I haven't decided. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1738707704.jpg While I am at it, Progressive Insurance was great to work with. I feel their settlement was more than fair. Everything was done through my wife as I had trouble even holding a cell phone at the time. We told Progressive there was a small Pelican case under the seat with the registration and some cash. I gave them the location of the spare key hidden on the bike and they sent someone down to their yard. The case was found and they mailed the cash and everything back to me. Outstanding! Progressive paid a towing and storage fee of about $2500 to get the bike from the accident to Boardman, OR. I don't know how or how much it was to get the bike to Progressive's shop in Portland. |
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I was trying to figure out all sorts of workable scenarios... none seemed right. |
Wow!!! I'm glad you are ok Rick!!
As I was reading your report, and you got to the Anthony Lakes area, I was just thinking you guys were only a couple of valley's over from where I had my wreck in June! Then I saw the wrecked bike.......wow.......so many similarities in our wrecks...deserted roads.......no cel service...no real memories.....strangers just happen by and go out of their way to help! My Inreach was on me but I don't think I would have had the brains to hit the button. Thanks for writing all this and letting us know you guys are both ok! Cheers |
My earlier reply about glad you're here to tell the tale was only about the cancer.
Same message again but triple! I DO like the way you narrated the trip that this was just another, though very different, part of the journey. Lalalalala, here we are riding here and there, seeing and photographing all these cool things, then WHAM!, here I am, riding in a helicopter. |
Well Tom, I kind of wanted the story to unfold the way it did for me. Had I known how it would end, I would not have left home.
I had a fractured C2 vertebrae and another fracture at the base of my skull. Either one of those could have been a complete end of my trip(life). There were another 16 bones that were fractured and some into multiple pieces. So that is where I am right now. Emotionally I want to ride again but intellectually maybe I should hang it up because I don't think I could go through this again. My family would like me to stop. After 60 years of riding and 500,000+ miles on motorcycles it is the only injury accident I have had so the odds of it happening again are really low. With my stage of cancer they say the average is about three more years. I figure with good life style and being on the the healthier side of my age group maybe add a few more years. With that in mind I want to enjoy the years I have left and riding the bike on these trips is probably my favorite thing to do. I don't have to decide right now so I am just hopefully letting the right answer come to me. I reread Droptarotter's R1200S crash report then called him. So many similarities. memory loss, new helmets and don't know what happened. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1739066022.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1739066022.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1739066022.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1739066022.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1739066022.jpg |
There is a lot to be said for doing the things that make life worth living.
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Ricardo; if you decide to ride again, I will be there with you.
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Thanks so much for the call Rick!
I sure am glad you are ok! Take care! |
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