Head Studs - How to re-install into block...?

[bigtimemcalpine]

Hi,

I've got my R1100s motor pulled apart and split in half to replace a blown connecting rod bearing. For convenience I removed the darned studs as they were getting in the way of pretty much everything I had to do with the engine. Now I'm realizing that I probably should have left them in...anyhow, they are now out.

So, the question is, using the double nut method, am I just putting them back in snug? or is there a stud tightening torque AND a nut tightening torque when the head is put back on? Nowhere in the Clymer book does it mentioned the method for stud re-installation (neither to they show these being taken out, of course).

Thank you!

[Jozef Schumann]

Hello.
You have three long and - one short M10 stud(s). On each side.

1.) Make absolutely certain the studs are free of any residual sealant and/or debris.

2.) Same applies to the case threads.

This is absolutely essential.

3.) Once your satisfied it is clean enough to pass spacecraft certification standards, or (Just very, very, clean will suffice)

4.) Apply blue Loc-Tite.

5.) Thread the 3 long studs into the case until you have an installed height of 9.125" or 231.775mm/23.7cm.

6.) Thread the 2 shorter studs to 8.325" or 211.455mm/21.45cm

Note: Yes, double nut is fine. There is quite a bit of thread length on the studs being driven into a tight-tolerance threaded hole, so there's going to be some friction, but not to worry. As long as there was no aluminum on the studs when you needlessly removed them. You'll be fine. Loc-Tite is a sealant, and can act as a lubricant, and since it is anaerobic, means it cures in the absence of oxygen. I believe it fully cures in 24 hours but I've had no issues putting a fastener into service in half that time.. or less depending on circumstances.

Here's a free factory shop manual site:

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/368745/Bmw-R-1100-S.html

Come back and let us know how your project turned out.

J.S.

[njsax]

Originally Posted by Jozef Schumann

Here's a free factory shop manual site:

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/368745/Bmw-R-1100-S.html

Wow, thanks for posting this, Jozef!

[bigtimemcalpine]

Thank you for this! "needlessly" is definitely the key word. I'm really kicking myself. The good news is that threads on both the block and the studs look great. Are you including the M10 allen bolt when you say 5 studs? I've got four on each side vs. 5.

Originally Posted by Jozef Schumann

Hello.
You have three long and - one short M10 stud(s). On each side.

1.) Make absolutely certain the studs are free of any residual sealant and/or debris.

2.) Same applies to the case threads.

This is absolutely essential.

3.) Once your satisfied it is clean enough to pass spacecraft certification standards, or (Just very, very, clean will suffice)

4.) Apply blue Loc-Tite.

5.) Thread the 3 long studs into the case until you have an installed height of 9.125" or 231.775mm/23.7cm.

6.) Thread the 2 shorter studs to 8.325" or 211.455mm/21.45cm

Note: Yes, double nut is fine. There is quite a bit of thread length on the studs being driven into a tight-tolerance threaded hole, so there's going to be some friction, but not to worry. As long as there was no aluminum on the studs when you needlessly removed them. You'll be fine. Loc-Tite is a sealant, and can act as a lubricant, and since it is anaerobic, means it cures in the absence of oxygen. I believe it fully cures in 24 hours but I've had no issues putting a fastener into service in half that time.. or less depending on circumstances.

Here's a free factory shop manual site:

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/368745/Bmw-R-1100-S.html

Come back and let us know how your project turned out.

J.S.

[Jozef Schumann]

Originally Posted by bigtimemcalpine

Thank you for this! "needlessly" is definitely the key word. I'm really kicking myself. The good news is that threads on both the block and the studs look great. Are you including the M10 allen bolt when you say 5 studs? I've got four on each side vs. 5.

You are quite welcome. Nowhere did I mention 5 studs, because there aren't 5. You have four studs per side, with one of those four being shorter. Indeed there are two M10x70mm allen bolts - (not studs - one per side). Those two are tightened to 40nm after the initial 20nm head nut torque and before the angle torque sequence.

Here are the details;

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/368745/Bmw-R-1100-S.html?page=100#manual


You'll get through this. It is not difficult. Just take your time and pay attention. Close the garage door and inform your wife and kids you're not to be disturbed, and leave the cell phone in the house and any radio shut off.

Come back and inquire on any boggle you might encounter as many times as is required. We are here to help.

J.S.

[bigtimemcalpine]

Originally Posted by Jozef Schumann

You'll get through this. It is not difficult. Just take your time and pay attention. Close the garage door and inform your wife and kids you're not to be disturbed, and leave the cell phone in the house and any radio shut off.


J.S.

That's good advice. Sadly, I'm under a tent in the backyard. One must work with what they have! I'm really looking forward to hearing this thing roar to life! Thank you for the input. Will keep you all posted.

[tomvv11]

I hope this doesn't make you say, "Doh!", but you can access and replace connecting rod bearings with the engine still in the frame. The main bearings not, of course. You may have had additional reasons to split your cases.
I did mine this year for piston slap caused by under oiling (Doh!). While I was in the neighborhood replacing pistons and cylinders I had the wrist pin bushings replaced at a machine shop.
I inspected and cleaned the journals and replaced the conn rod bearings, which were not bad but just in case, to start as close to fresh as I could.

[bigtimemcalpine]

Originally Posted by tomvv11

I hope this doesn't make you say, "Doh!", but you can access and replace connecting rod bearings with the engine still in the frame. The main bearings not, of course. You may have had additional reasons to split your cases.
I did mine this year for piston slap caused by under oiling (Doh!). While I was in the neighborhood replacing pistons and cylinders I had the wrist pin bushings replaced at a machine shop.
I inspected and cleaned the journals and replaced the conn rod bearings, which were not bad but just in case, to start as close to fresh as I could.

I did notice that...the concern was that the movement of the con rod was so severe that I was concerned about damage to the crankshaft itself...sure enough, an inspection confirmed that crank journal was gone and what was left was not gonna cut it. So...had to put in a new crankshaft too. Luckily no damage of note to the engine case itself. I'm glad I walked the bike home 1.5 miles (when I bought it) instead of risking further damage. Cost of the crank, rods, and jugs were minimal so as long as my sweat equity pays off I have myself a pretty decent bike for pretty darn cheap!