Initial review of Rapid Dog barbacks

[Josey]

Rapid -

I would, if I didn't have to remove all the switchgear from the Verholens and reinstall in on the standard bars; that was a major pain in the a*@!

[Rapid Dog]

Sounds like they might work Higgs!

[Rapid Dog]

O.K., I think I've got it now...this a letter from a guy who bought my barbacks and previuosly had the Suburban riser kit.
THe Suburban Riser kit was designed for LOW BAR bikes...

Evidently if you have the LOW bars AND ABS, you'll need to get a longer brake hose.

Otherwise no other cables need replacing or lengthening.

I have the HIGH bars (comfort bars) and didn't need to do anything but cut some zip ties.

Here's the letter:

Hey Paul,

Did your bike orginally have low bars? The first instructions you sent said something about sliding the fork tubes up thru the tripleclamp as I recall. I keep getting guys asking me if the barbacks will work with the low bars.


Randy,

My bike shipped with factory "comfort" bars (i.e., mounted above the triple-clamps) and ABS brakes.

I did refer to sliding the fork tubes DOWN through the clamps, but this was only to re-route the wiring harnesses, as follows:

5. Re-route the wiring harnesses behind the fork tubes. Do this one tube at a time by pulling each tube down through the bottom of the fork clamp, pulling the harness over the top of the tube and behind it, then replacing the tube up in the clamp. (Leave the hydraulic brake and clutch hoses, as well as the throttle cable, in front of the tubes.)

Your barbacks should work with low bars, but, unless the bike has ABS, the brake hose will have to be replaced with a longer one. Check out Suburban Machinery's site below for details here. Be sure to read the "October 2002 update."

(Note that Terry Phillips had marketed this "handlebar riser kit" before BMW offered their comfort-bar option. Supposedly, BMW patterned its comfort bar setup after Phillips's kit.)

http://www.suburban-machinery.com/R1100S2.htm

Paul

[Rapid Dog]

Oh Fer Chricky!
A senior moment?
Dyslexia?
A symple type-o?
Call it waht you will.
It looks like I interpreted it wrong.

"The latest R1100S models (after the spring of 2002 silver Boxer Cup series) are equipped with non-ABS BMW brand brake calipers. The handlebars are mounted below the triple clamp. When installing our HB riser kit, a new brake hose will be required. The most economical approach is an aftermarket stainless braided hose approximately 2.5" - 3.0" longer than the factory hose. The previous Brembo compatible hose will not fit the new calipers properly..."
Suburban

"Your barbacks should work with low bars, but, unless the bike has ABS, the brake hose will have to be replaced with a longer one"

O.K. I get it now.

If you DON'T have ABS, you need the longer hose...
evidently the ABS bikes have a LONGER hose.

I need a break...

[Josey]

In order to remove the low bars, do the following:

1. Remove the anti-rotation screw for each bar (under the triple clamp, toward the center). If I remember correctly, they're hex.
2. Loosen the pinch bolts on the bar and the triple clamp. Remove/replace one side at a time.
3. Raise the slider above the triple clamp. There's a wire circlip at the top of the slider - remove and retain.
4. Push the slider down through the triple clamp and the bar. Remove the bar (use a towel to protect the tank/fairing, and just lay the bar on it).
5. Push slider up through the triple clamp (may need to be moved back into alignment, but not much). Make sure there's enough slider over the triple clamp to accept Rapid's bar backs (or the original bars).Snug the triple clamp pinch bolt, but don't tighten fully.
6. Repeat for other side.

You can now move the current bars into position to check for slack. If you can finish the install w/o any add/l mods:

7. Install bar back. Don't tighten the pinch bolts.
8. Loosen triple clamp pinch bolt, and push slider up until the circlip notch is above the bar back.
9. Reinstall the circlip, and push the slider down until it stops. The circlips prevent the sliders from sliding out of the clamps (that's why you removed them in step 3). Bottom of bar back should be against top of triple clamp.
10. Tighten all pinch bolts to spec.
11. Repeat for other side.
12. Install bars on bar backs.

Don't try to do both sides at once; the triple clamp starts moving around, and both sliders develop minds of their own. You'll need 3 hands to realign everything.

Don't ask me how I know this.

Hope this helps. The whole operation took me 20 minutes - including time to find the darn rotation screws - and I'm a klutz...

[Rapid Dog]

I love people from Chicago!

[Josey]

Rapid:

Thanks, man.

You people from Cal are Da Bomb, too.
You also make cool stuff...

[Josey]

Higgs:

Sorry, dude - reread your post. With non-ABS, chances are you'll need to replace your brake lines. I used the "Opportunity" to upgrage to Speigler SS lines. Check for slack before you decide against moving them, though - I know of at least one person on this board who had enough slack in the non-ABS line to put the bars above the triple clamp.

Good luck. Hope the instructions help.

[VetteRacer]

Joe: Not knowing the suspension on the R1100S. I know its not traditional, but does raising the tubes up effect the bike at all?

Matt

[Josey]

VetteRacer:

Strange as it sounds - nope, not at all. Front-end geometry is controlled by the Telelever. The sliders are just there for steering input.

[Rapid Dog]

Hey Joe, can I post your instructions on my web-page to help those in need?

[ckcarr]

FYI - You need to fix the web link so we can just click on it!

http://www.sdcsoftware.com/rapiddog/barbacks.htm

[Rapid Dog]

I put it in my profile but it didn't come out hot.
I don't think it will work unless I cut abd paste it each time.

[ckcarr]

OK, never mind. Just trying to help!

[Higgs]

Rapid & Josey:

Thanks for all your help. I'm going to try something this Spring. It's just too darn cold here in NE PA, that it would be impossible to work on the bike in my unheated garage. Rapid's design looks the best although it look like quite distance from under the clamp to the new position. I wish I could find something that would just give me the above the clamp "comfort bars" on the later model bikes. I'll keep you posted.

[Josey]

Rapid:

Go for it. Happy to help in any way I can.

You'll need to add a reference to all the wiring zip-tied to the frame - on my bike, there's almost 1 foot of slack on each side. Grab however much you need, do the install, and re zip-tie the remaining.

Some members managed to get a little extra out of the brake lines by loosening the master cylinder banjo fitting and rotating it straight down. There needs to be enough slack so the lines aren't stressed at full extension. You need to put the bike on the centerstand and loft the front wheel to check. Mine was so short, I could just barely get the bars over the triple clamp - thus the new lines.

Let me know if any questions come up - I'll help as best I can.

Higgs:

Tell me about it. It's -1 here now - at 1pm. Good luck this spring - let us know how it goes. Post any questions - enough of us have done this, so there's plenty of info here.

Rapid's design is the best. He'll be making more, believe me...

[Rapid Dog]

Much Grass Joe.

[Josey]

Rapid:

One add'l note: for those needing the bars higher than your bar backs place them, there's apparently enough length in the sliders to bring them up some - maybe an add'l inch or so. I'm not sure, so try at your own risk....

Roger et al:

Anyone know exactly how much overlap there is between the sliders and the fork lowers? I'd imagine there's a stop to prevent the slider from being pulled out of the lower, but I've never tried it. Thanks.

[drdave39]

Just something to watch out for- I got the set and they went on fine, but the bar-backs kept rotating despite proper clamping torque. Ended up tightening the right one to the point of partial bolt-head stripping and the +_)(&*^&_)*ing thing still would twist!

Then- the flash of insight- put a piece of tape on the fork tube- lo and behold- the TUBE is twisting in the triple clamp!!!!! Checked the torque on the upper triple clamp bolt- way less than the recommended 22 ft-lbs. Tightened it to spec- twisting go bye-bye! Now have a wonderfully comfortable riding position with the same sweet handling.

Thought this might save someone else a lot of cursing. FWIW, my bike had the low bar to above the triple conversion with Suburban Machine risers. It may be that the shop didn't tighten the triple clamp as much since the bars were "locked in" with the risers.

Also must add that Randy was geat, offered to exchange, refund, or do whatever was needed to make me OK. A GREAT product if installed by a non-idiot...

Dave

[bingo]

I just installed my barbacks last night, also turned them just slightly inward to give about 1 inch clearance from grip to tank at full lock. 02 SA. zero install problems, and all I can say Randy is: THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU, ETC...

Folks, if you don't have em, you want em!

bingo