Installing front Ohlins

Bob Hancock · 09-27-2004, 10:34 AM

I'm taking a break from installing my Ohlins set. The BMW shop manual says to unhook the tank and slide it back to install the front, but the Ohlins instructions don't say anything about that, and I don't see why I need to do that. But before I get halfway there....do I need to unhook the tank and slide it back?
Thanks for your response.

shannonnunley · 09-27-2004, 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Bob Hancock
I'm taking a break from installing my Ohlins set. The BMW shop manual says to unhook the tank and slide it back to install the front, but the Ohlins instructions don't say anything about that, and I don't see why I need to do that. But before I get halfway there....do I need to unhook the tank and slide it back?
Thanks for your response.

Absolutely not. There isn't any hardware that needs to come off... not even tupperware.

Rapid Dog · 09-27-2004, 11:04 AM

Nope, just slip the old ones out and the new ones in.

ejfbmw · 09-27-2004, 11:43 AM

Changed mine on Sunday in less than 30 minutes.

motoyoyo · 09-27-2004, 11:44 AM

It's a pretty simple install. The only thing you might want to watch is the bonded rubber collars that go on top and bottom of the top frame yoke have very subtle high and low spots in them. This allows them to index slightly, probably to keep them from spinning when tightening the top nut on the shock. They will probably find their own index, but if you're really retentive like I am, you can set them up in the right postion before sliding the shock through the top frame piece.

Oh...and don't drop the little screw for the top knob down underneath the tank.

ejfbmw · 09-27-2004, 11:52 AM

That stupid little screw...

shannonnunley · 09-27-2004, 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by ejfbmw

That stupid little screw...

tell me about it... I've lost three and finally decided to carry the gold adjustment knob in my tankbag for any on the road adjustments.

Bob Hancock · 09-27-2004, 12:54 PM

Thanks guys....both ends bolted right up. Didn't move the tank. I didn't have any trouble with the tiny little screw, just the tiny little bearing in the stock front that bounced out. Gotta find it somewhere so that I can reinstall the stockers when/if I sell this bike.
BREAK BREAK....slight change of subject. I measured the stock shocks in my BCP and the Ohlins. My thought was to set them the same length initially and go from there. The rear Ohlins is 6mm taller and the front is 10mm shorter. So....bottomline, the closest I can get the Ohlins setup is 16mm with the bike in a steeper attitude. Has anyone measured/looked at this? I know it will quicken the steering....I'll just tiptoe into it I guess. I don't know how to lengthen the front without sending it to Ohlins and I don't want to do that if I don't have to. I was kinda surprised that Ohlins doesn't have regular R11S shocks and BCP/BCRep shocks. Comments?

Rapid Dog · 09-27-2004, 01:07 PM

They both should be length adjustable. I'd adjust to the same as your Prep shocks.

"closest I can get the Ohlins setup is 16mm with the bike in a steeper attitude. "...not sure what you mean here...

ejfbmw · 09-27-2004, 01:17 PM

When my Ohlins were new I noticed this same thing. There is a previous post/thread about it.

ejfbmw · 09-27-2004, 01:21 PM

Try this...

Shocks

Bob Hancock · 09-27-2004, 03:41 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by ejfbmw

Try this...

Shocks

ejfbmw,
Thanks alot. That's exactly the situation I am facing....same numbers and everything. I'll try to shorten the rear as much as possible. To do that, I have to disconnect the lower again and turn the fork in...right?
RapidDog....follow ejfbmw's link and read that. Says it much better than I did, but is the same situation.
Thanks guys.....ejfbmw....to reiterate my question....I gotta disconnect the lower to turn it in...right?
Thanks to all ,

johnnydanger · 09-27-2004, 04:31 PM

Keep in mind that the unloaded length does not dictate the compressed functional length of the shock once installed. For example, if the Ohlins was 1" shorter overall but significantly stiffer than the stock stuff it could very well maintain a higher ride height than the 1" longer stock suspension. I would set the lengths to factory recommended specs as you don't want to bottom out the internals by lowering the threaded perch more than it should be lowered. Of course others may have experience in better ways to setup the shocks, but going lower is often times not better because you engage the bumpstop more and create non-compliant ride characteristics. The factory usually knows best.

Bob Hancock · 09-27-2004, 04:47 PM

Thanks Johhny, but I can't go to stock heights....front is already lower than stock and rear is quite a bit higher than stock. If I lower the rear it'll still be higher than stock. As I meant to explain in my original post, my goal is to set the bike up with stock BC Prep numbers and adjust from there.....just trying to figure out how. Ejfbmw's link explains it quite well, now I'd like to hear if I need to unscrew the lower fork to get that done.
Thanks anyway,

ejfbmw · 09-28-2004, 03:22 AM

As stated in my old post, the front remains 10mm shorter than the stock BCP shocks used in '02. The rear however is modified by removing the bottom yoke, and on a lathe, threading the yoke back to the shoulder. A M17 x 1 threading die could also be used. Double check your thread size and pitch. This increases the length of adjustment to obtain the original 310mm dimension center to center.
The 10mm drop in the front is immediatly obvious, and produces very different chassis geometry. IMHO, the loss in ride height at the front is negated by the superior ride quality of the Ohlins, and results in an easier going, more flickable "S". Only the truely insane rider or "Pro" racer is going to notice the loss of ground clearence as they grind the valve covers into the tarmac. Again, IMHO, the change in geometry is an improvement producing better handling than stock.

BMW Atlanta · 09-28-2004, 05:51 AM

Negative Bob,................shortening the front shock will not quicken the steering. Your front tire cycles up and down on a fulcrum,...not up a telescopic fork. By lowering the front shock you have induced rake. You have increased turn in however by lengthening the rear. Come by and ride my bike sometime and you can see the difference the longer front shock makes with a longer rear shock.

Rapid Dog · 09-28-2004, 06:28 AM

Bob, it looks like you have to remove the shock to turn the yoke out, but no, I don't tink so. I do believe that you just back off the locking nut and adjust the length nut...now I'll stay out of ...

Bob Hancock · 09-28-2004, 06:47 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by BMW Atlanta
Negative Bob,................shortening the front shock will not quicken the steering. Your front tire cycles up and down on a fulcrum,...not up a telescopic fork. By lowering the front shock you have induced rake. You have increased turn in however by lengthening the rear. Come by and ride my bike sometime and you can see the difference the longer front shock makes with a longer rear shock.

OK....that sounds good. I called Ohlins and they backup what RapidDog says.... to adjust the rear length I can just loosen the blue nut and turn the silver one in place. So now the front/rear balance from stock is about 12mm nose low, and what I hear you saying, Bobby, is that's just fine...go ride the durn thing and enjoy my Ohlins.
Right?
Thanks for all the help you guys....this forum is a great and timely resource that's for sure.

Rapid Dog · 09-28-2004, 06:54 AM

Now all you gots to do is set the sag and dial'em in Bob...plenty of threads on that...

ejfbmw · 09-28-2004, 06:58 AM

What is sag.