ABS Fault lights is there a non dealer involved reset?

[jclark]

EZ - if you simply hold the "start" button down *before* you turn the key to "on", the ABS will ( would ) never arm, and no fault would be encountered.

Well, there may be a fault recorded in the 'puter, but no weirdo blinkie light to distract you...

jeff
... may have many faults, but I'm not aware of them... :)

[EZ-RIDER]

Thanks jclark,
The problem would be if I can get the guy in the Dyno booth to do it?

[Beemuur]

Kevin,

All of my records are still in storage from the move to the "sunshine state" so I cannot look up the labor cost for the ABS unit replacement. It seems like it was in the 4-6 hour range, but I could be wrong.

[kpoling]

John: Thanks for the info!

Mark: I scoured the net for that info. I guess since our bike has the lowest production numbers, there just aren't enough people needing the data.

[jclark]

Originally posted by EZ-RIDER
Thanks jclark,
The problem would be if I can get the guy in the Dyno booth to do it?

Show him.

[kpoling]

Well guys, I finally quit riding the bike (the ABS fault lights covered with electrical tape) & stripped it down to look for "Pin 21" on the ABS plug. Well, guess what, on my 2000, no wire on pin 21. Neither of my manuals has the plug numbered on the wiring schematic. My copy of the official BMW repair manual has no electrical schematics.

Does anyone have an electrical schematic for a 2000 S that can look to see the color code for this reset wire?

From Anton Largiader site : ABS faults and resetting

http://www.largiader.com/abs/absfault.html

"Note: the K1200, R1200C and R1100S use the same ABS units as the 1150GS, but there is no ABS switch to use for the reset procedure. If you can access pin #21 on the ABS unit, I hear you can ground it to achieve the same effect as having the ABS button (possibly including disabling ABS on startup!). Pin #21 will be on the large connector to the ABS unit. I haven't done this myself; don't ask for any more details!"

Any help is appreciated!

[SandCityFlyer]

Kevin,

I had the same problem. The first pump was replaced by the dealer on warranty. Two years and several resets later I was told the fix was going to cost 2 grand. After some encouragement from JonyRR, I took care of the problem myself, for good!
I changed to SS brake lines at the same time. The brakes feel better, the bike is lighter, and no more blinking lamps, resets and shocking $$$$ estimates.

Good Luck,

Jerry

The "Non-Dealer Fix"

[kpoling]

Thanks for the reply Jerry. How much did that pump unit weigh? Were you able to get a hose kit, or did you have to order them individually? I am not going to put $1500 into it as it is just not worth it. Maybe I will trade it in on a nice dual sport bike!

[JonyRR]

NO...you are going to do a simple ABS-ECTOMY just like Jerry did and live happily ever after.
How far is Lake Oswego from Tacoma?
I could do this in one weekend.....

[JonyRR]

and trade the GS in for a real dual-sport.....

[JonyRR]

Gawd, that IS a buttt-ughly pile of stupid overcomplicated unnecessary parts...It'd be fun to melt down a big pile of nonfunctional BMW motorcycle ABS components and cast a panzer tank out of the mess, wouldn't it.....

[shards]

Hey SandCityFlyer, did you ever think about producing a "How To Do an ABS-ectomy" article for those of us who might be interested in doing one? I'm particularly interested in any electrical issues you have to overcome.

[SandCityFlyer]

shards,

The following description of my "ABSectomy" is provided per your request. I hope you find it helpful.

Removing the ABS II on my 99 SA was pretty simple really. It took about a day, including the replacement of the fuel filter, and installation of quick disconnects for the fuel lines while I was in there. I suppose the most important thing was deciding which type of brake lines I wanted to replace the old swollen rubber ones with. It seems like most of the folks that have switched lines have chosen the so-called "2-line system" or "racing setup" to the front discs, with an individual line from the master cylinder to each front caliper, eliminating the steel cross pipe between the forks. I looked at that setup, but chose to use the "3-line system", utilizing the crosspipe. I couldn't really detect much, if any, difference in the feel between the two systems, and my decision was based primarily on aesthetics, as the 3-line system uses only one line coming off the master cylinder, thereby cluttering up the cockpit less, and the brake line routing is a bit cleaner. Either system seems fine to me. I bought my lines from Spiegler, who gave excellent service. You choose 2 or 3 line, and the colors for the lines and fittings, and they send you what is needed. My front brakes have a nice firm feel now and I can't imagine how they could be much better. I installed Speedbleeders at the same time. They are very helpful for the bleeding operation and aren't expensive.
Removal of the stock ABS will present one with some other decisions. To me, the most important was getting rid of the ABS ring and sensor on the left fork. I pulled the sensor out by the roots and hacked off the mounting bracket, filed it down real nice, and polished up the area. That still left the segmented ABS ring. That's not so easy, as the left brake disc posts are shorter by 5mm on the ABS models, which means that you can't merely remove the ring and put the disc back on, as it won't line up with the left caliper. I considered having spacers made, but didn't really like the idea. "Fortunately", the decision was made easier for me, as I encountered a bunch of fist-sized rocks on the road through Big Sur on a rainy day, and missed all but one, blowing out a fresh Z-6 and slightly dinging the front wheel. A nice new Non-ABS wheel was soon on the way from Chicago BMW. No more ring, and no more sensor. The rear brake mod is a piece of cake, though I did need to buy the short steel line which comes off the master cylinder. I still have the sensor connected at the rear drive, and it bugs me, but I will clean that up soon, with a home brewed alloy cover.

Outline of the project:

1. Ordered brake lines, steel pipe off rear master cylinder, fuel filter and quick disconnects
2. Removed all the fairing
3. Removed the fuel tank
4. Removed battery and tray
5. Replaced fuel filter and installed quick disconnects
6. Pumped out old brake fluid
7. Disconnected electrics from Control Unit and removed front sensor and wire.
8. Removed the control unit (which leaves a BIG hole!)
9. Taped up and secured the electrical connections
10. Installed my pretty new stainless lines
11. Installed Speedbleeders
12. Filled front and rear master cyinders with new fluid
13. Installed battery, tank and fairing
14. Bled the brakes. (They sure feel firm!)
15. Test ride. On the brakes the bike feels much more "positive". The bike feels noticibly lighter, (about 14# total) and the front comes up with more enthusiasm now. Not a bad thing. The blinking lights disappeared without fooling with the electrics, and the brakes have been perfect since the project. The installation of the lines is straight forward, and after bleeding the brakes and feeling the lever I was delighted!

I'm 65, and no real tiger on the road, though I ride briskly. For my kind of riding, in this wonderful California coastal climate, I don't want the complication of ABS, and I can now replace the fluid annually myself. I am most thankful to JonyRR for the encouragement to take on this little project. "No problem, just yard all that crap out", said Jony! He seems like a very enthusiastic supporter of such seemingly daunting surgeries. The project went very smoothly though, and there were no problems. Actually, it was kinda fun.

jerry

[kpoling]

Johnny:

I have the bike stripped to the ABS unit now. I want to take it apart & see if there is anything that I can find wrong with the unit, maybe a C-hair in the plunger. I wanted to figure out the reset first before I performed the surgery so I could reset without paying $50+ to PDX BMW to reset it for me. If I can not figure that out, then it will just come out & become a NON ABS bike.

I am looking for a nice used DRZ-400S at a decent price or an ATK-605DS for dual sporting. I have had the pig on dirt & it is just a matter of time before I break something that costs big $$. It is a great long distance bike.

Jerry:

Thanks for the info. Looks like we have the same bike!

[shards]

Jerry, Thanks for a great write-up. I just realised that I have another issue as well - mine is a 2004 Replica with the electric servo-assist. Does anyone know if there is anything sinister or is it just a case of dumping extra "stuff"?

I should also say at this point that I generally like my ABS (especially in the wet) but I doubt I would pay the high cost of parts replacement if the system should fail/break in any way.

[on2wheels52]

Kevin
I've been happy with a DRz for a few years, mainly for my short commute to work but some dual-sport use also. 100 mile hwy run is about all I'd want on it. Have a KLR650 now that my son is 16 & glomed the 400. The Kaw much better hwy but way heavier in the dirt but if you've managed the GS you may not mind. High center of gravity it has.
Jim

[kpoling]

Jim: Thanks for your comments. The DRZ is the lightest street legal dual sport available, not counting the new Huskys. The ATK weighs about the same as the DRZ and is air cooled instead of water. The KLR is definitly better off road than my Adventure.

[JonyRR]

Kpoling;wadda ya wanna do with the dual-sport? how dirt or street biased do you want.
My '99 KTM 380 EXC is street legal, weighs 235 with a full tank of fuel, has 50+hp and is lightening fast up to 70 or so.
The only drawback (it isn't for me as I can get along with a ringding just fine) is it's a 2-stroke. I can still go 100 miles in the woods on just the gas in the tank.

[kpoling]

Well for those who care, I finally got around to trying the reset procedure and it worked!!!

-Locate the round diagnostic connector on top of the airbox

-With a wire, ground the brown/blue stripe wire (pin #2) and keep it grounded.

-Turn the ignition on

-Attach a wire to pin #21 on the ABS, ground for about 8 seconds. (you will see the lights stop blinking)

-remove the pin #21 wire from ground

-Turn off the ignition, remove the pin #2 wire from the diagnostic plug.

I am going to run a wire from the ABS plug pin 21 to an area under the seat. Then when I need to reset, I will not have to dismantle the bike.

[Don Ro]

Care? You bet.
Good for you.
From where did you fetch this info? The above link?
.