What To Do While Your In There

[Joe]

While I have my new project bike completley torn apart. What does the peanut gallery recommend replacing or at least checking?

Bike is a 2000 ABS with 19k the replacement motor has 43k. I'm planning on replacing all external seals (fr cover,R Main, Site-glass) on the motor and maybe cam tensioner's.

20k on clutch......looks ok.....but?

So what would you Do?

[Trex]

just from a project point of view - while everything is torn apart - think about any parts you might like to get powder coated or Jet Hot coated. Turn around time for jet Not coating is a matter of days. Look for local spped shops that might know a powder coater.

[Trex]

also...if you're going for a modified seat/saddle send it out now.

[Jeff Williams]

Joe,
IMO now is the time to do those 'honey-do' projects you have been putting off.
When they are complete they can be used to great advantage for future projects and trips.
as Sun Tzu said,(and I paraphrase), chose the battles to fight, win the battles you chose.
cya
jeff

[Joe]

Trex

Thanks for the thought but need to put the money in the mechanical stuff first......then if any is left over maybe on bling.

[Joe]

Jeff

Are we talking bikes or women

[jduke]

Balancing everything from the crank out as close to matching as you can will help smooth these big twins out.

[Jeff Williams]

Joe,
both
cya
jeff

[roger albert]

The balancing is a good idea (as is Jeff W's input)

I can't recall if you have the cases split or not, or if it's worth bothering if you already don't, but, I'd consider the cam chain guides (long black plastic bits that the actual tensioners push again the chain)

I got a bike in once where they'd shattered after having been allowed to flop around too much due to a faulty tensioner. I don't think you can replace them short of tearing all the way down. I'd seriously consider them. I guess I could come up with more, but that's the only thing other than the crank that jumps out as "easy now / what a ***** later"

Not sure what block you have, but I assume you're doing both inner and outer rear main seals now?

hth
roger

[Joe]

Roger

Not splitting this motor if I can help it but will on my 1200c winter project motor.

what do you usually do ? slide hammer with a self tapping screw to pull both rear seals.

[roger albert]

Ive used wooden slats to jury rig my official factory airhead puller, which has a draw screw and hook arrangement.

In your shoes, I'd either try your above suggestion, or use a small hook on a slidehammer.

I'll try and ask a friend who does it w/o special tools what he does tonight too.

[roger albert]

OK, I'll put this here, though inspired by your clutch thread.
On new ones, I generally see a tiny bit more than 6mm, but 6 is nominal.

The current recommendation is to replace the flywheel and pressureplate at the same time as the clutch. I've recently done a pair of bikes oilheads that had had clutches done (60-70ks each) but just the friction disks. Both came in to me with still under 100k on the clock with badly slipping clutchs. Some of the slip was oil, but it wasn't much and the owner is a savvy guy that knows when to roll of throttle, how to shift, and when to adjust play. The common element is that both were done disc only, ignoring the recommendation to to the steel bits.
More importantly, in both cases there was cracking/crazing on the metal surfaces on one side. One bikes was severe (truly dangerous) and the others mild. Still, I'd never seen than save for one truly abused one on an airhead. You know what a grenading clutch can do.
Might be worth thinking about those metal bits too. I haven't ran into this much, but one mech at our local shops has seen it a few times, and I have twice in as many months
fyi
caveat emptor
ymmv
roger

[Moybin]

Joe:

Are you cracking the transmission apart? If so, you can always do what I did and get the input shaft treated with chromiun nitride. Do a search on those words if you like.

So far it's shifting a lot smoother than last year, and I don't have near as many of those false-neutral upshifts from first gear. Maybe I'm just getting trained, finally.

[Joe]

Roger

The Clutch package only has 19k on one motor with no sign of oil contamination. This is what the metal surface looks like.......some copper transfer from the threads on the disc but no cracks or heavy bluing still can feel the machining with my fingernail. I'm going to put it back in with a little moly lube on the splines. What's your opinion?



Moybin

If I crack it open it's going to be for the slave rod seal......never really had any shift problems but might do it to the extra tranny for track use.

[wswartzwel]

Originally posted by Joe
While I have my new project bike completley torn apart. What does the peanut gallery recommend replacing or at least checking?

So what would you Do?

Back light the Oil sight glass with a red LED....

[Joe]

Originally posted by wswartzwel
Back light the Oil sight glass with a red LED....

I like that................to late.I just put in the new site glass in today.


BTW might as well put in a temp sensor in at the same time.

[wswartzwel]

I am playing around with a gear indicator idea to replace the neutral switch.... don't know if anyone is already making one...

[alq2]

how about touching up the valves and a little porting and polishing ?

[roger albert]

That's low mileage Joe. You should be fine.
Or at least as fine as any nearly new clutch with a built motor would be.

Bill, the RSs have a gear indicator. Maybe look at how they do it on those RIDs?

[Joe]

Originally posted by alq2
how about touching up the valves and a little porting and polishing ?

Trying to leave this motor stock.............I plan on building a killer 1200 with one of the other 2 motors I have.