Just test drove R1100S, some questions

[Bart_dood]

Hi folks,

Just a few questions I have, hopefully I can get some answers to them before I need to get back to the guy selling the bike tomorrow.

1999 R1100S, 5400 miles, commuter bike so its not mint, but generally in good overall condition with a few scuffs.

First of all the clutch, the adjustment wheel was set to 4 when I turned it to I think 1 or 2 the clutch didn't bite when I let it out in first gear, is this normal or signs of a bad clutch? Do you have to click the wheel down numbers as it wears or up? IE start at 4 when new, then 3 then 2, then 1. Or start in 1 when the bikes new and go to 2...3....4 etc.

Second, I noticed a little oil residue around the driveshaft mechanism, right where it connects to the wheel, last last rubber flex piece before the wheel, it was held in place with zip ties and there was a little oil residue and dirt had collected a bit on the oil.
Is this normal or is something bad in there?

The brakes certainly needed bleeding, I could tell there was air in there, but easy for me to do.

The bike had a slight engine scuff on one side, but from the looks of the scuff the bike was stationary when it fell. The right hand mirror had a slight scuff on it also and the rear bag handles on the left hand side also had a slight scuff.
The bike has ABS brakes, two BMW bags for both sides, a tank bag and fairly new tires; the battery is new as are the spark plugs and its just had an oil change.

The guy wanted $7k but I said possibly $6800 (which he said ok to) but I have made no commitments yet, I want to check out the VIN for accidents or write offs; and get back to him tomorrow.

The bike had lots of power and torque compared to my honda, and rode nice, the engine sounded perfect, even from the cold start.

Answers to my questions would be most appreciated.

[Bart_dood]

And one more thing, the bike had a staintune exhaust on it which was very shiny, although its not something I'm that bothered about.

[Bob Hancock]

sounds good but the clutch bit. The lever adjustments are just that...for how close you want the lever to set out depending on how long your fingers are. For the clutch to slip badly....that's not good. Any leakage around where the tranny attaches to the engine? At 26,000+ , my clutch engages just fine regardless of where the lever adjustment is.
The leak around the rear drive is probably OK...no big deal....but others will probably have another opinion.

[markjenn]

As Bob said. The 1-4 wheel has nothing to do with clutch wear - it is simply to adjust the rest position of the lever for different size hands. If the "didn't bite" comment means that the bike didn't go, then you definitely had a problem. If it simply didn't go at the same spot in the clutch fritction zone, then it could be nothing.

This bike sounds like one that it would be worth paying a dealer $75 to do an inspection.

- Mark

[Flatbutt1]

with that low mileage she's nowhere near broken in. The clutch doesn't sound right at all but the weepage near the final boot isn't strange. Mine did that for about 7500 miles. Very minor weepage but you can lift the boot and see if it contains any significant amounts. check the joint between the engine and tranny just below the throttle bodies. If there's weepage there it might mean a problem. But with such low mileage I'm having trouble imagining it.

Guys?

[Bart_dood]

I talked to him about the clutch, I said that was the only thing that bothered me about the bike really.

I am thinking that I may not have "clicked" the shift into first properly and that it wasn't actually in gear. The bike wasn't really warmed up, is it possible the transmission was cold and didn't go into gear properly?

The bike rode fine when I drove it and the clutch seemed perfect, it was just this little issue when I first tried to ride off and it didn't seem to bite at all, until I had it in and out of neutral and clicked the adjustment around a bit, then it seemed ok.

I am going over there tomorrow and examine this more closely, he understands that if I'm not happy about this then I am not taking the bike.

[Steve Carlton]

Hold the shift lever down as you slowly let out the clutch and you'll feel it click into gear. They're not great about going into first gear when cold.

Have you figured out which options and accessories are a priority?

[Bart_dood]

I have thought about the options I want:

ABS brakes...for that "oh ****!!" moment...

Heated grips...(I checked, they work)

I like the color Red

Side bags for those long trips, or a change of clothes if I ride it to work.

Tank bag is nice too.

This bike has all those, plus the staintune exhaust, which although I don't care about I could sell if I get the bike and go back to stock maybe?

The bike also comes with a touring screen (higher than stock), and the stock screen included.

[Flatbutt1]

didn't understand your clutch issue, sorry! yeah they''re real quirky about dropping into first. I give mine just a little goose on the revs, do a double clutchy thing with a little pressure on the shifter and CLUNK, in it goes. Once you learn the technique it becomes a non-issue

[wswartzwel]

I like to go up to my dads farm and drive his old "1953" GMC from time to time.. Makes me feel real good about the way my "S" shifts.

[jweicht]

From your susequent description, my guess is that you didn't have the bike in gear the first time you tried it so there really is no clutch problem. They either work or they don't, not intermittently. When I test rode my S it went into first so smoothly (no clunk or lurch like every other BMW I've ever owned or ridden), I was sure there was a tranny problem! Only super smooth when cold though - that reassuring 'BMW Clunk' returns when warm. Sounds like mine is the reverse experience of most others on the board, though.

Sounds like a good bike.

[on2wheels52]

My S is non-ABS so I have no personal experience but from my post reading I would not say bleeding one so equiped is "easy for me to do". Good hunting.

Jim

[Bart_dood]

How much backlash does the rear wheel have when the bikes in first gear?

If the bike is on the stand and in first (with engine off) how much should I be able to rotate the wheel back and forth before it stops (trying to turn the engine over).

I think this would be a good way to judge how much wear the drive gear etc has?

thanks

:devil:

[markjenn]

Up to 2" of backlash (mearsured at the rim) is normal. People get worked up about this all the time as being abnormal, but all bikes are similar.

Bart, you sound unexperienced in evaluating used bikes. The bike sounds generally Okay, but it's been down, has had some mods, and appears to have a few questionable areas. A forum is a poor excuse for a mechanical evaluation by a professional. You may save yourself some real headaches - a small repair of a critical component on these bikes can run $1K or more.

- Mark

[Bart_dood]

I'm having some second thoughts now, the bikes first owner was this guys friend, how do I know the mileage really is genuine?

I went on carfax.com to check the VIN# out and it came up with zero records, that means there has never been any verification of the mileage at all, what if the guy disconnected the speedo or something?

I think the clutch issue I had was just me not used to the gears on a beemer, different from my honda, but I would rather have a bike thats stock and also not been dropped (even if it was at standstill). I think for $7k I could get something better, even with just a few more miles on it.

There are too many niggling things bothering me here and I'd rather feel more comfortable about the whole thing so I'm thinking of passing and waiting for another bike to come along.

[markjenn]

Well, how do you know any bike's mileage is genuine? The fact that the ownership history is known is a plus, not a minus.

I just entered my R1100S VIN at carfax (a completely clean title, dealer maintained for the first few years, no accident, one-owner bike) and it came back with "no records" also, so the results you got are essentially meaningless. You're tilting at windmills.

It could be great bike or it could be crap, but you're not going to find out running off on tangents like you're doing. You might find a nicer bike for $7K, but you might not either - they're aren't many six year old sport bikes running around that haven't had at least a minor scuff or two. And if there are pristine, bone-stock, low-mileage 99's out there, I'd suspect they'll fetch more than $7K.

One more time: if you're serious about this, get a mechanic's evaluation.

- Mark

[ckcarr]

The real deciding factor is the bikes color.

Everything else sounds perfectly normal.

[steve abella]

Originally posted by Flatbutt1
with that low mileage she's nowhere near broken in. The clutch doesn't sound right at all but the weepage near the final boot isn't strange. Mine did that for about 7500 miles. Very minor weepage but you can lift the boot and see if it contains any significant amounts. check the joint between the engine and tranny just below the throttle bodies. If there's weepage there it might mean a problem. But with such low mileage I'm having trouble imagining it.

Guys?

If the BMW clutch is drivien in stop and go traffic that mileage could have worn it out
I have found the besst way to tell is to get up to highway speed and WOT it if it slips its dead or dying

[Pololo]

Originally posted by markjenn
Well, how do you know any bike's mileage is genuine? The fact that the ownership history is known is a plus, not a minus.

I just entered my R1100S VIN at carfax (a completely clean title, dealer maintained for the first few years, no accident, one-owner bike) and it came back with "no records" also, so the results you got are essentially meaningless. You're tilting at windmills.

It could be great bike or it could be crap, but you're not going to find out running off on tangents like you're doing. You might find a nicer bike for $7K, but you might not either - they're aren't many six year old sport bikes running around that haven't had at least a minor scuff or two. And if there are pristine, bone-stock, low-mileage 99's out there, I'd suspect they'll fetch more than $7K.

One more time: if you're serious about this, get a mechanic's evaluation.

- Mark

Well I have been reading these responses and seriously some of them are just waaaay off.

I am the guy selling the bike and I believe this statement I am quoting is the MOST accurate to reality.

The bike is ready to be examined by anybody and tested by a professional mechanic.

I think the excuses posted here are just very vague but it's OK.

I am not flipping the bike, like someone suggested, I have not altered the mileage... Indeed I paid $7K for and I have spent ~ $180.00 on the battery, spark plugs, oil and detailing.

Carfax will NOT SHOW you anything unless it has been sold or even reported!

Just because it's too big for me doesn't make me a dishonest person or "something fishy" I don't appreciate that.

Chris,
You have been very forward and a nice guy but I guess now you are coming up with excuses that just don't seem justified. I have even offered you the number of the original owner but nothing.

No biggie,
I understand the situation. I just wasting my time that's all.

Now I know a bit more about the bike and I am sure I will be more educated next time a buyer shows up.

Take care you all... GREAT FORUM BTW!!!!

Carlos

[Flatbutt1]

Pololo
I don't think anyone here intended to insult or denigrate you. If you got that impression then sorry. We're just trying to offer our best advice.