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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Centurion
Posts: 16
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My 2000 bumble bee, has an intermittend down shift problem. I kind of solved the standard supplied up shifting stuck between two gears problem (This feature was supplied at no extra cost - bargain heh !!)
All jokes aside, the bike has 9000 km (5600-miles), And when I am riding and down shifting, I sometimes find that, when shifting down to 2 nd or 3 rd gear, there is no lower gear to shift to - the gear shifter is just spungy as if there is no gear to engage (no klick ), and when you release the clutch it is still in the same gear.(Does not seem to be the same as the standard upshift problem - not stuck between gears) To solve it I then have to reengaged the clutch and shift again - no problem if you are just riding, a bit of an irritation, but scary as hell when you going at speed. (I am not shifting clutchless, as you all know,or maybe it is just me, she is not very happy when shifting clutchless) I am blipping the throttle a bit to keep the engine speed up. Any ideas please !!!!!!! Regards Gerhard South-Africa PS - I just replaced my BT56's with BT010 - oooohhhhh awesome !!!!!!!!!!! |
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Have you tried using a full-synthetic gear oil such as Golden Spectro or Mobil 1? Usually has excellent results. Do you have a 6-speed gearbox?
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Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: No. CA
Posts: 2,921
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I went with synthetic at 18000 and the gearbox is a helluva lot better. (should of done it long ago)
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Kent, UK
Posts: 263
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Would that help my reluctant down shift. Unlike the original post mine is solid and takes a cluch out and in to clear. This only happens very rarely.
Len |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Centurion
Posts: 16
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Thanks for replying !
I must say may problem is also quite intermittend, but It scares me when I am at speed into a corner, and it is making me over causios and taking the edge off my driving style -(The bit of style I have) !! Could you guys confirm the gearbox oil as - SAE 90 GL 5 - it sounds a bit thick for gearbox oil - My knowledge (for what its worth) GL 4 for gearboxes/transmissions and GL 5 for diff's Thanks Gerhard |
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Union Pier, MI, USA
Posts: 572
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BMW markets a full synthetic multi-vis which is the greatest thing going for the "S" gearbox. They tell you to wait out the first six hundred miles before switching to synth tranny lube, but this stuff is really fabulous, as well it should be at about $14/liter.
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Belleville, ONtario, Canada
Posts: 1,146
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ONe of the things I love about my "S" is that I don't have to play gearshifter all the time.
Perhaps a change in riding style so you aren't shifting mid corner would be a step in making things less scary at least. Meanwhile I'd get it checked out. I've never had a problem with mine although I've heard it suggested a slightly different shift style than is used on Jap bikes might be more appropriate to the Beemer. Its been taught at BMW A.R.T. courses and recommended by long time BMW racers. Namely clutch in, lift on lever with foot, while maintaining upwards pressure let out clutch. Release the shifter pressure. This way if a shift isn't happening because things aren't aligned right it still shifts into the gear when the initial bit of rotation solves the alignment problem. I am still trying to train myself to not just make quick stabs at the shifter with my toe. |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Chicagoland
Posts: 717
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Rapt, you are probably correct in your suggestion, but damn I'm having a hard time changing my 30 years of shfting style....It does work, though!
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Kent, UK
Posts: 263
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Rapt
What about downshifts? My upshifts are fine, but I don't use your method. Push up with the foot, pull in on the cluch at the same time slightly dipping the throttle. My S is also happy with cluchless up shifts, but habit stops me doing so. Len |
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Belleville, ONtario, Canada
Posts: 1,146
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Do downshifts similarly. Clutch in, shift lever down and hold down, clutch out. Let off on shifter. Should work the same way for the same reasons...Again BMW is NOT a japanese bike, and even though the S gearbox is much better than previous BMW's its not a poke and stab kinda tranny. Make deliberate shifts and do it before or after the corner not in the middle.
As Rootboy says though, Damn hard to change habits. I've only been driving bikes for 15 years and I can say that right now I rememebr to shift like that only something like 1 in twenty times. |
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Kent, UK
Posts: 263
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Rapt
Well I'll give it a try, I have to admit I'm probibly doing things a bit too quick for BM's. Thanks. Len [This message has been edited by Len (edited 05-04-2001).] |
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Melton Mowbray,Leicestershire,England
Posts: 24
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I had downshift problems at 2000m and then 9000m, result, new gearbox at 24 months under warranty. Don't accept bad standards, forget about Jap bikes etc. it's just bad workmanship.BMW know there's a problem and if you shout loud enough you'll get it sorted.My new 'box is now super sweet.
Nigel |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Centurion
Posts: 16
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Thanks you all for the replies !!
I went for the first no pain option and replaced the gearbox oil with Mobil 1, fullly synthetic 75w90 - So far so good - definite improvement !!!!!!!!! no downshift probs yet, did about 80 km (50 miles) this afternoon through town - The gears are now shifting like a pound of hot butter up a bulls !@#$ !! If it does not solve the downshifting problem the nice smooth changes and positive feel on gear changes is a definite plus !!!!!!!! Thanks again, will keep you posted. Gerhard |
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